Bob's caboose build

Lets talk tiny houses, tumbleweeds etc on wheels

Postby droid_ca » Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:40 pm

I like that first picture of the cupboard would be good if you had a little herb garden that was underneath it so the dishes could drip dry and water all at the same time
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Postby bobhenry » Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:53 am

I found a few more interesting ideas......

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a small free floating lavatory with storage when every cubic inch counts

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Some old ideas still merit attention. From a 1947 home magazine a great way to find room for a small chest without blocking the closet door.

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And this one is not new to many former or current RV owners but still is a great idea to extend the counter space in a mini kitchen.
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Postby the other side » Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:21 pm

Check out Ikea, if you can get to one. They specialize in things for "small" areas!
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Postby bobhenry » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:42 am

Well the flooring for the Caboose is decided. I was working
around the plant this past weekend and started cutting the plywood
bows for the sandwich roof trusses.

During my wanderings I walked by one of the cut off dumps
and picked up about four or five pieces of 1 x 6 waste and a
light went off. These are for the most part clear and knot free
SPF #2.

A Parquet floor using these cutoffs. :thumbsup:

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I can trim them into 5 1/2" by 5 1/2" tiles.
A little quick math and it comes out just under
800 tiles for an 8' x20' floor. A notched trowel and some real
good construction adhesive as the base and I think I will
experiment with sawdust and carpenters glue or perhaps
the dust and some fiberglass resin.

Any of the cabinet makers out there have a good recipe
for a wood filler.

I am thing 3 /16 to 1/4" grout lines. The final finish will be
a gym floor sealer.
Last edited by bobhenry on Fri Feb 10, 2012 8:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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RE: Caboose Floor

Postby mezmo » Fri Feb 03, 2012 11:31 pm

Hey Bob,

Why don't you just edge glue them all in place and eliminate the sawdust/
wood filler "grout"? Sorta like a gigantic checkerboard? All that "grouting"
seems like a lot of extra unnecessary work - unless of course it's the "look"
of it you're going for. Doing an end grain hardwood block would be very durable
if it was in a hardwood like oak/ash/maple etc.. but then it'd look like a
humongous butcher block cutting board! Ha!

You'll need some kind of super heavy duty finish for it too as the wood is
very soft, if it is pine, hardwood would do better, but in any event, there
will be a lot more concentrated wear on the floor since it is in a small space.
It'll have almost continuous use in the traffic areas, which are a
high percentage of it compared to a larger space. [OOPS! I over-
read your gym floor finish statement.]

Just a couple considerations I thought of. Many ways to do things - many
things to consider!


Cheers,
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Postby bobhenry » Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:44 am

Yes they are spruce pine fir cut offs. It is just the 1x4 and 1x6 you would get at the lumber yard. They will be places face grain not end grain and yes the finish will be the key.

I spent part of my weekend cutting the blocks to a true 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 as most were close to 6" +/- long. I have just under 300 of the 900+/- I need. I like free I am cheap and I think this will be a great looking and performing floor. A few well placed throw rugs to catch the incoming dirt and abrasive sand and I think it will prove to be a fairly durable material.
If not it can be another layer or I can remove it and start over.

I hope to take a 4x4 piece of plywood and adhere a few dozen tiles and make a trial piece to test a few Grouts. I really feel the grout lines are necessary first to keep the lines running square and to act as a sacrificial break point if the floor should flex.

I really should have cut the rest of my roof trusses this week but played with the floor instead. I guess it makes since in building to start at the bottom and work up :lol:
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Postby WhitneyK » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:58 am

Don't know why it wouldn't work Bob, can't be any softer than linoleum.
You can always refinish it when it gets scratched up. Linoleum, well ... :roll:
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Postby bobhenry » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:25 pm

I am wanting a baggage door on the caboose build. This is a good representation of the look.........

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With perhaps this style of roller system ........

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It will be a 42 to 48 inch wide "pocket" door my questions are how to construct and is there a better roller hardware for a larger and heavier than normal pocket door hardware.

Obviously thermal integrity and water intrusion are my two greatest worries.

The side wall forward of the baggage door in the picture is the bathroom on the donor trailer. That wall could be framed as 2x8 or 2 x 10 if needed to house the door. Latching hardware is another ??? in my mind. Maybe it's time to get to a couple railroad museums and look around .
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RE: Baggage Door

Postby mezmo » Tue Feb 07, 2012 12:46 am

Hi Bob,

Unless you desire the look of the rolling hardware [and since you seem
to be receptive to novel solutions] let me throw out a suggestion.

I've always thought a home-built solution for a sliding door could go as
follows:

Use a very hard hardwood for top and bottom runners and dado a centered
groove in them. In the bottom groove 2+ urethane wheels [depending on
the width of the door] would ride. [The taller, thinner kind like those used
on skateboards etc..] These wheels would be mounted in the bottom door
frame using small inset U brackets you would screw/bolt to the door and which
would carry the small 'axle' the urethane wheels would need. I'm
assuming the door is thick enough to allow for the urethane wheel's
and axle bolt head and nut. A thin skirt of 1/4 x 3-4in poplar or a door
protector type metal panel could also be used to skirt it. The top could
be handled similarly or you could mount a tall or squatty ['technical term'
Ha!] urethane wheel, who's diameter is just a small bit larger than the door
thickness, perpendicular to the door faces on top that could
locate the door top in a deeper corresponding groove or a U shaped top channel that
could be made by assembling one out of hard close grained hardwood 1x
for the top of the door to ride in.

Top and bottom side sealing could be done with the brass spring and/or
brush type weatherstripping and the vertical ends could use interlocking or
doubled up rubber type weatherstripping mounted on small wood/metal
flanges attached to the door sides and walls etc..

I'd also recommend to build the door yourself with a perimeter frame and
foam center and ply skins [or maybe aluminum ?] It'd be lighter and have
the insulation factor since it would be such a large amount of the sidewall
area. I'm sure you could make it look authentic easily enough.

Have fun devising your solution.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo
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Postby Catherine+twins » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:42 am

Sounds to me like you're re-inventing the sliding glass patio door on many houses now. I know you aren't thinking glass, but the rest of the hardware is already invented. You just want to put in a panel instead of glass, and have it slide into a pocket. Easy-peasy.
8)

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Postby bobhenry » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:08 am

Catherine+twins wrote:Sounds to me like you're re-inventing the sliding glass patio door on many houses now. I know you aren't thinking glass, but the rest of the hardware is already invented. You just want to put in a panel instead of glass, and have it slide into a pocket. Easy-peasy.
8)

Catherine



As Homer says so often DUH !

I work next door to a glass shop and about once a month there is a patio door in the in the junk pile. Generally the glazing gasket has failed and the fogged window is the reason for replacement. Remove the glazing and fill with blue foam adding nailers where needed. Skins can be attached by drilling the aluminum frame and with a bit of wood moldings added it could become a rather authentic RR door. A little work with casings and trim and I may be able to hide the Aluminum look completely.

:thumbsup: BRILLIANT

Sometimes we overlook the obvious :oops:

Norm:

I was using the old steel skate wheels in my head but the new age plastic is a great idea as rollers.

I was born too soon my skate board actually had metal wheels
:lol:
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Postby bobhenry » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:31 am

Went and played with paint a bit to draw up this.

The four little windows at the top I still have from the 4x7 build that I decided not to use.

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The outer halo casing is 1x3 hardwood as is the center horizontal rub board. This would cover the skin and help to guide the door into the wall pocket.
Add a little fancy moldings around the windows and make mock panels below and this is kinda sorta the idea :thumbsup:

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Postby ParTaxer » Tue Feb 07, 2012 9:43 am

Bob, I used garage door tracks and wheels to make sliders for my screen porch. No problems after six years.
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:02 am

Thought you might get a kick out of my local Freecycle ad.


ISO DAMAGED PATIO DOOR
Posted by: "bobhenryhenrybob" [email protected] bobhenryhenrybob
Tue Feb 7, 2012 9:25 am (PST)


I AM IN SEARCH OF A TAKE OUT PATIO DOOR 6 FOOT OR WIDER THE
GLASS WILL BE REMOVED SO I DON'T CARE ABOUT THE GLAZING
CONDITION BUT DO NEED A COMPLETE FRAME. STANDING OUTSIDE
THE RIGHT PANEL SHOULD BE THE ACTIVE( MOVABLE) PANEL.

Yep cheap is good and FREE is even better ! :thumbsup:
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Postby mezmo » Thu Feb 09, 2012 3:43 am

Great idea Catherine!

Cheers,
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