I'm pretty sure I got it off facebook, but I don't know if you can search the entire site for something like that.
here's the group's album link. I couldn't find it in there. I do remember that being in their news feed, I think they said the picture was taken up near the california-oregon border. somewhere in the american north west coastal area I think. at it posted before july 22, cuz that's the date I have on the file of the picture on my computer.
well I thought it was pretty cool or I wouldn't have taken the time to upload the photo. So often in this category we don't have links back to the owners because the pictures are 40 years old. We won out on this one. :-)
Larry C wrote:What an interesting way to build a teardrop. Thin plywood,epoxy, and fiberglass The possible shapes are unlimited... Great way to build an Airstream shaped standie!
Check out the boat building technique called cold molding. Basically make a set of construction ribs, then staple a layer of wood strips or veneers to them. After that epoxy or glue on layer after layer of strips or veneers. For a TD trailer I'd use a layer of 1/8" thick veneers for the inside. Then a few layers of 1/16" or 1/32". Then a foam block layer for insulation. Put hardwood borders around all through openings and hardwood block where you need to mount something. Finally I'd make the outside of a few more 1/16" or 1/32" layers and a final layer of 1/8" veneers. When done, remove the construction ribs. Any shape can be made. With planning a door could be cut out of the shell and thus have the same wood patterns going across it. After each layer is laid up, I'd use vacuum bagging to press it while the glue dries. The reason for a 1/8" inner and outer layers is so some sanding for smoothness can be done without sanding through the inner and outer layers. If you paint, then this isn't as much of an issue. In the end, the result is you have a sheet of plywood in the 3D shape you want it. A layer of fiberglass could be applied if desired, but it isn't required. It would be easy to make a very streamlined shape. Because of the staples used to hold the inner layer to the construction forms, many people will laminate a surface layer to the inside after the forms have been removed. When the construction forms are removed, the staples will be sticking in from the inner layer. Cut them off with a close cut end nippers, then laminate the inner layer on using vacuum bagging. On boats they often get around this by gluing the inner layer to a set of permanent ribs that are built over the construction ribs. If you feel up to it you could parquet the inner and outer layers. To parquet the inner layer you have to do it on the post construction rib removal layer. Hum, I was just thinking that you might be able to use modern double stick tapes to hold the first layer on the construction ribs instead of using staples.
Cold molded yacht including laminated frames, etc.
These guys aren't vacuum bagging, and they are using thick strips with a simple shape. Note the alternating of the directions of the wood strips. I've always thought doing 4 layers would be a good number for the inner and outer plywood sheets. Make the inner layer stapled to the forms horizontal. Then a layer 45 degrees off that. Now do a layer 90 degrees to the last layer. Next do a vertical layer. Glue in the wood mounting point blocks, could also be laminated up ribs. Next layup a vertical layer, 2 diagonal layers 45 degrees off vertical and 90 degrees to each other, and finally a horizontal layer. With this layup the inner and outer sheets of plywood have 4 way strengthening, as well as being bonded to a foam insulation layer that serves as sandwich for stiffening. For a TD, you likely could just get away with two diagonal layers on the inside and outside of the insulation layer. Then a single layer of fiberglass on the outside for abrasion resistance.