coal_burner wrote:I'm also thinking of cutting a 2 foot diameter hole in the middle of bub so i can use it for an ice fishing shanty.
No beer drank.
coal_burner wrote:Bub has finally gone camping...
coal_burner wrote:On the opening day of deer season, i woke up at 7 AM. I had my folding directors chair set up in bubs changing area, coffee poured, and rifle pointed out BUB's back window by 7:10. I saw my first deer at 7:15, took a 235 yard shot with an AR-15 and had my venison for this year (damn i'm good).
coal_burner wrote:weekend spent with rifle in hand. No beer drank.
Uhh, wouldn't a hole in the floor cause it to sink?
Man, that was a lot of trailer-building work for a five-minute event!
As others have stated this is a very cool build indeed.
I'm curious about the overall structure, I've never worked with fiberglass but I'm really interested in the idea, the profile possibilities are very enticing.
If I've followed the build correctly.... aside from the window frames, and the sealing strips for the top and bottom shells the entire 'body' is foam and glass - is that correct?
How many layers of fiberglass where used?
ktm_2000 wrote:When researching the build for my fuel tank hatch, I was given the advice to put 2 layers of glass on the top and 3 layers on the bottom and the product would be strong because the 3 layers on the bottom are where the strength is needed yet the top only needs enough glass to protect the foam from being crushed.
Fiberglass works well when used in tension
In the case of a deck hatch which may have substantial loads placed upon it from 1 direction. Load is directed down upon a hatch the glass which is on top of the core is being compressed due to the load and the material which is under the core is being stretched. Beefing up the glass on the bottom increases the products resistance to stretching and thus creates a product which doesn't deflect much...
ktm_2000 wrote:Here's the guy I got my advice from.... he does a better job than I did explaining the whole thing.
I'm a newbie here and am inpressed by the method you used. I'm curious which brand of foam insulation you used as well as if you did some testing to figure out which types don't dissolve from epoxy. If you did testing, did you consider polyester resin to reduce costs? if so did all the different types dissolve from the resin?
What type of glass did you use? I can't really tell from the pics but it seems that you didn't glass the inside, is the product balanced? ie as strong pressing from the outside as from the inside? When researching the build for my fuel tank hatch, I was given the advice to put 2 layers of glass on the top and 3 layers on the bottom and the product would be strong because the 3 layers on the bottom are where the strength is needed yet the top only needs enough glass to protect the foam from being crushed.
I was thinking of building my side walls by gluing pieces of insulation to make one large panel. From there a router could be used to create a slot to run a pvc tube for a wire chase. When ready the outside could be laminiated with 1 layer of 1708. In a second glassing session the inside could receive a layer of 1708 with the mat side down on the insulation, a second layer of 1.5oz mat could then be added on the inside and be put on quite wet and 1/4" birch ply could be added for a pleasing interior. Once the panel was cured it could be cut to whatever size/shape you wanted. I have no idea how the pink insulation bends but it could probably be helped out with a heat gun and one could come up with some interesting shapes and unusual design ideas.
As for the top, it would be a lot more difficult to glass each side and I'm still trying to figure out how I'd do it but for now I'm thinking of connecting the pieces with 1/4" birch ply then adding the insulation on the outside radiusing the corners then glassing 2 layers of 1708 on the top with the first layer covering over the side quite a bit. The whole thing could then be faired to fill in the weave and then shot with one of the high build primers to create a pretty smooth surface ready for paint.
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