Ok here we go...PMF!

[Sheddie]

Oh bugger they have passed half way in 19 overs

[dales133]

Yea hoping for a miracle now

[Sheddie]

We have turned the telly off so as not to distract them

[dales133]

Lol mate

[Sheddie]

Just flicked the telly on, oh bugger. All over in the 33rd over At least we don't have to sit up too late to see the end.

[dales133]

Still a bloody good performance from McCallum and the boy...Did us proud

[dales133]

Gotta say I love this water based poly, it's the ghastly et looking milky goop I've ever seen but it gos off super quick, easy to sand and a bit of wet and dry 800 grit in between coats and it comes up like glass to the touch.
If you want a slightly more satin finish just layer it up and flick over it with 800 and wipe it down.im a convert.
I'll upload some finished pics later on with the center door carpeted

[dales133]

Just found some kauri 3.6mm ply 2138x982 or some wierd size like that for 10 bucks a sheet.
Might have to go have a look

[Sheddie]

It is probably karri. It's Australian, we get some of it over here too.

[dales133]

They say kauri and it looks like it but something similar grows in northern Queensland, the Solomons and Fiji.
In fact when I was in the rain forests in cairns thier kauri almost identical in tree form but I believe it wasn't always called kauri

[KCStudly]

I offered some advice to lfhoward about the Fredrick's roof method over on his M116A3 Build. Dales133 asked me about my reply (over on my build thread) wondering how one might go about setting up a router to form the step in the top of the wall and I thought it might be better to include that discussion here.

First a disclaimer: I haven't actually read Steve Fredrick's manual, but I have seen build threads of several people who have used the method and I get the intent of the process... building inside out... so this is just my thoughts on one or a few ways to accomplish the basic idea, not a be all end all representation of his method.

I guess it all starts with what you have and where you want to begin. If you have made a template of your outside overall wall profile or your 'sanded to the line' outside skin, you could step that off onto your inner wall skin using a marking gauge or pencil compass, allowing for the thickness of the ceiling panel and height of the spars. Then you could jigsaw close to the line and sand to the line to get your reduced inner skin profile.

If you want to cut the wall frame to match this inner skin, just leaving the outer skin higher, and you haven't laminated the frame to the outer skin yet, you could clamp or glue the inner skin and frame and use a top bearing bit following the inner skin as a template.

Now because a top bearing bit can only cut to the specific depth or the full length of the cutter +/- what the bearing height is able to follow, you might not be able to use this type of cutter if you only want to cut part way thru the frame. In that case you could use the router following a guide or template; or if your profile is simple, a straight edge for the straight stuff and a trammel for the curves.

Another option for a partial cut, though a little more tedious, would be to follow the inside skin with a guide collar, then shave the resulting step with a chisel. (Not my first choice.)

There may also be a variation where the ceiling rests on a smaller step and the spars tuck into deeper pockets routed into the frame, reducing or eliminating the need for filler pieces along the profile.

Listen to me babble. Let's go look for a good example from someone who has done it...

Here's another thread on the topic... http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=1122512#p1122512

Looks like Tony makes the frame match the inner skin and lets the outer skin run past.

[dales133]

Thanks for that mate.
The 2 issues I have are 1 I've cut all my spars the same width as the floor already and to lay them on top would require re cutting them and it would also make my galley bulkhead to low by the spar thickness.
And 2 my internal walls are glued to my frames already so the only way I can see around it is to somehow rebate a groove in the inner wall lining the spar thickness down from the profile edge somehow?

[KCStudly]

Oh... yeah. That.

Silly me, not looking back to remind myself where you were at. I guess I just assumed by the question that you hadn't worked these details out yet.

I'll go back and read thru your thread again, see if I can come up with something (I'm sorry, I cover so much ground here that I lose track of where I'm at often! ).

I'm not sure that the bulkhead is a problem, but having the spars cut already is somewhat prohibitive.

[KCStudly]

Are your spars glued in or just temporarily screwed?

If they are not glued yet and you still want to try and assemble the ceiling/roof from the top/outside, you could make a ledger profile, kind of like crown molding under the edge of the ceiling and screw that to your side wall. Then place the ceiling skin on top of these ledgers and drop your existing spars back on top.

I doubt you would be able to slide the ceiling skin into a slot and get it to wrap around with the profile, at least not using thicker skin like 5 mm or thicker. Do you know what you will be using for your ceiling skin yet?

Might be better off just sticking to the traditional method at this point.

[dales133]

Firstly no its not glued together yet but everything is pretty much ready.
I'd thought about some kind of ledge but I'm not sure I want to see it inside.
Still mulling it over but I've made a point of making the spars the exact size of the floor so if I got the cabinetts maker down the road to cut my roof sheets on his panel saw I might get away with the generic method.
I plan on using around 3mm for the ceiling to make life easy