The Wedge ... UPDATE 07/07/2012

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Re: The Wedge update 04/01/2012

Postby KCStudly » Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:48 pm

Instead of a full panel gusset on the outside, just use a single strut, say 1x2. That will catch less air and still leave the bed clear for cargo.
KC
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Re: The Wedge ... UPDATE 04/16/2012

Postby mckenney56 » Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:09 pm

It's been a while since I posted progress. Yard work kept getting the way.

I came up with a solution for latching the tail gate to the trailer. Around a year ago a friend was having his windows replaced and I aquired the old ones. They have two sash locks and a crank out mechanism on them. Decided to use the sash locks for the tail gate. There are two on each side. I may add two more on the floor about 4 inchs out from the wall. Anyone got any ideas on what I might use the crank thingy for?

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Then I started on the roof. I cut out all the frame pieces by ripping 2X4s.

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This shows the overhang the roof will have at the back.

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Then I mocked up what the roof might look like open. Raised up 3 feet it gives 4.5 feet inside height.

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This shows how much eve overhang the roof will have at that height. I could go higher but I sort of like having the eve sticking out there. I might cut it off after hitting my head on it a few times.

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Laid a untouched sheet of ply down on the frame members doing a dry fit.

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Discovered the box is out of square by about a quarter inch. Not sure you can see it in this picture. I don't know what I was thinking, I always check drawers for square before I glue them up. I might trim that off with a flush cut router bit later, or leave for discussion.

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One full 4X8 installed on the frame members.

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This shows the seam reinforcement I used. Better than nothing. Should help hold that seam straight and tight. I thought this approach would be fairly light.

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And now I have a finished roof.

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Next will be back wall and door with the roof in the up position.
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Re: The Wedge ... UPDATE 04/16/2012

Postby Martiangod » Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:03 pm

Mmmmm, the smell of fresh sawdust....AAAchooo!!

Love it.

Looking good

Are you going to have the upper walls slide down the inside, slide down the outside or fold into place when the roof is up?

Look like an old set of Pella windows, nice use of the latches :thumbsup:
A TPO roof would be awesome on that, light weight ad perfect for flats, lighter then rubber or aluminum.
Should check with an RV place that does repairs, they may have a cut off that they would sell you.
Mine was a cut off from a 5th wheel I reroofed last fall, the cut off was 7' x 8'6".
Trailer roofing is 8' 6" wide, looks like you would get away with a 5' cut off and you would be able to wrap over the front hinge to stop driving rain from getting in
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is

Chris

Deep in the Heart of Nowhere
The topper viewtopic.php?f=50&t=58140, gone to a new home to be converted
into an ice fishing shack...FREEBIE !!! for a nice young family
The trailer viewtopic.php?f=50&t=48156
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Re: The Wedge ... UPDATE 04/16/2012

Postby mckenney56 » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:44 pm

I thought I would make the sides light enough to just set them in place once the roof is raised and held up by the back wall and door. That's why my next step is build the back wall and door. I've also considered that in the summer time I would make screen panels for the triangle sides with tent fabric covers if it starts raining.

Tonight I worked on my pivot point for the roof. First I slid the roof off and down to the floor and slid a scale under it.

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Each end showed 33 lbs. So that's a total roof weight of 66 lbs.

I built in a 1 1/2 inch grove across the front so the roof can pivot on the top of the wall and the groove prevent it from sliding off. This means no roof hinges and no holes drilled through the front wall. The next 2 pictures show my witness block that is the thickness of the wall in the closed and open position.

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Decided to try out some split water hose as protection for the top of the wall. I'm was afraid that the edge of the plywood would chip off. I'm not sure if that would make a good enough seal around the whole top edge of the box, but it's free and I have plenty of it.

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I put it across the back edge and ran out of time. I could glue it on there, staple it down, or both.

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Re: The Wedge ... UPDATE 04/16/2012

Postby KCStudly » Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:40 pm

If you decide to staple it, I would do it from the inside and just have the hose curl over the top edge of the wall natrually. That way there are no holes on top or on the weather side. But of course, you surely have thought of that already. :D
KC
My Build: The Poet Creek Express Hybrid Foamie

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Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
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Re: The Wedge ... UPDATE 07/07/2012

Postby mckenney56 » Sat Jul 07, 2012 6:09 pm

Realized I haven't updated this thing since April 16th 2012. Haven't really made a progress. Other things got in the way and then it got way to hot to work on it. I was staying inside today since it is 102 degrees out there and read a post looking for TTTs that have pop up roofs. I braved the heat and went out and took 2 pictures of the project with the lid raised.

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When and if this heat wave breaks, maybe I'll get back to making progress on it.
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