The LT... Thomas' Luxury Tent

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby G-force » Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:44 pm

Sounds like a good price. My axle is nearly the same with the exception of the width and short spindles. Mine was 198 from the factory out here with the side mount brackets. You order the side mount brackets?
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Postby 2bits » Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:26 am

I am wondering what is the deal with short spindles, they just give you 1/2" on each side right?

No , I didn't get the side mount brackets, but I do intend on mounting them that way. How much were your's? I was just going to make a set from angle. Looks like two holes and a cutout. If they're not too much I would buy some, I didn't even ask though, I just assumed they'd be $30 or something.
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Postby G-force » Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:43 am

Yes, I think they are 1/2 shorter. For builders like me who's tear body is flush with the frame (no overhange) and using standard 0 offset wheels, the inside of the tire has alot of clearance to the body, around 2 inches or more. The short spindle moves that inward 1/2". Your right about the brackets, they are just an angle with a cutout for the axle and boltholes.
2bits wrote:I am wondering what is the deal with short spindles, they just give you 1/2" on each side right?

No , I didn't get the side mount brackets, but I do intend on mounting them that way. How much were your's? I was just going to make a set from angle. Looks like two holes and a cutout. If they're not too much I would buy some, I didn't even ask though, I just assumed they'd be $30 or something.
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Postby 2bits » Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:36 am

Well, it kept buggin me all night, I knew this guy wouldn't know what I was talking about, but I don't need an ulcer so I called him right when they opened today and had him add short spindles to the spec. His response was "I don't know nothin about no short spindles" haha, I told him it wasn't in their literature, but I got it direct from the Dexter website for the #9 axle, so he said ok, and added it to the notes. somehow I feel better :?
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Postby 2bits » Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:08 pm

Painted the bottom of the floor today. I used that Auto Zone rubberized undercoating stuff. I did two coats with 8 cans of the regular $4 stuff, then topped it off with two cans of the "professional grade" $10 cans that has asphalt in it. I think it will be just fine.

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Postby 2bits » Sat Apr 12, 2008 11:26 pm

Everything was pretty much on hold until the axle came in which it finally did! The measurements came out GREAT! 3/4" On both sides of the torsion arm.

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I took off work early Friday, and drove across the metroplex and brought it home. On the way home I stopped by Tractor Supply and got some Angle Steel for the side mount brackets and when I got home, I made the brackets and mocked and measured the location on the frame.

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Today I went to work for half a day, then dropped by my muffler shop who always does me right, and they welded the brackets to the frame FOR FREE, gotta love them. He said bring him some beer sometime :D

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Got everything home and painted the frame, then, bolted the axle up permanently, and laid the floor in place which fit perfectly snug.

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Then I pulled the floor and decided to coat if with the "correct" roof tar stuff, since I wasn't satisfied with the undercoating. That will probably drying all week.

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Tomorrow I am going to drive three hours to Texarcana to go pick up some black .063 aluminum that a group member turned me on to. I can't beat $40 for a 4x8 sheet! I had been thinking that I needed to make my trailer skinnier to accomodate a 60" wide sheet, but this deal just came up and now I don't have to do any redesigning!

Click on the link on my signature then click on "stage2" for all the play by play with more pics if you are interested!

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Postby Novanut » Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:08 am

Not to change the topic too much, but have you got the starter fixed yet? Is your block the straight across mounting holes instead of the diagonal holes? If so, I think I can help you pick out a starter that will work... with one slight catch.... you will have to change from the 14" flexplate to the 12" flexplate. But you really, really... did I mention really.... need both bolts holding the starter on. If you're lucky, just the bolt or starter nose will break... not the block.
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Postby 2bits » Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:24 am

haha Well, You know I am lucky since the bolt broke off in my garage last time! I sorta have it fixed, and haven't been driving it much. I drilled a hole through the block so it will fit my offset bolt starter (block was drilled for straight across bolts). but that starter is apparantly not the right one because I have 1/4" of shims in and it just not right.... It starts but sounds like it needs shims... I worked on the shims for a few hours when I "fixed" it, so I know I need a new starter, or maybe just the new flywheel. I have already been through the gambit on the flywheel when I was putting the engine in, because when you go to a smaller flywheel like for a Powerglide (which the block is drilled for) the torque converter bolts don't line up with the flywheel. I have to use a 350/400 flywheel which is bigger. I was thinking about getting one of those hi torque custom starters because you can get them with a side by side bolt pattern for a 350/400 tranny, but I just worry about if I will need to shim it up real bad like that, which I don't like at all, and the starter is $200...

So yeah, kinda got frustrated and am just working on the teardrop. I need to fix it so I can trust the truck. If you have any info please send me a PM!

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Postby 2bits » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:59 pm

Tonight I cut the 2" x 3/8" rabbet out of the bottom of the 3/4" sides tonight. This is how the sides will be attached to the teardrop on the bottom. The first 3/8" will sit on top of the floor so the screws will not take all the weight, the second 3/8" (thickness) hangs over the floor meeting flush with the bottom of it to cover it and screws go into the floor frame from the side. Trim will be bradded in along all the edge of the profile to hide the screws.

The router worked perfectly, and I got to try out one of my new bits. Now they are ready to be mocked up in place to verify the cabinet dimensions. then it's cabinet time! I am looking forward to this part!

:twisted:

Clamped in, ready to be routed:
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Close up:
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Postby Miriam C. » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:39 am

:thumbsup: :applause: I see you are moving right along now. Getting the sides up is a big day so enjoy it.

I was looking at your frame and the axle looks centered in your pictures. Is that just the picture? :thinking:
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Postby bg » Sat Apr 26, 2008 10:31 pm

I'm curious Thomas.. Where did you get your plywood(the maple)?
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Postby 2bits » Tue Apr 29, 2008 12:37 am

Hey guys, been real busy lately sorry for the late reply.

Miriam, yeah that is funny that way the picture looks, I must have been using my fish eye lens on that one because it is definitely much farther back from center.

BG, I called around and the best place for quality/price/service/availability was Plywood company of Ft Worth. They are in NE Ft. Worth one block off I 35 W. They were $125 each for the 4x10's and they let me go out in the warehouse and pick the sheets. I've been to alot of lumber yards and this was no lumber yard. This was the cleanest warehouse I have ever seen. I didn't like the repeating pattern of the Red Oak, and the regular Birch 4x10's had the best grain pattern in my opinion, but Maple will stain a little better. I am very happy with it. They had 1/8" Baltic Birch but it was only in 5x5 sheets which wouldn't work for me, but might for you. So I got some regular 4x8 Birch from them for $20 ea.

http://www.plywoodcompany.com

well, I routed the walls too short, I don't know what I was thinking haha, I routed the walls to be flush with the bottom of the floor on the sides but that was never the design, it needed to be routed to where it was low enough where the floor met the edge of the wall on the front and rear due to the profile! I had some friends come over and we mocked it up in place and it was sitting WAY too high, and the floor was sticking out the front and the rear, so that was a short night and I felt like a dork. Even shorter when my router broke after they left! I borrowed a router and got another 2" knocked off, and cut a small notch out for it to fit around the axle, now the walls sit perfectly, and I am going to invite my friends over again to hold up the walls so I can screw them into place temporarily to do the cabinets. then they will come back down for cabinet routing, and stain.

The correct route!
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The very first pic of the wall in place! I had to really stretch to get this pic since I had to hold it up! haha
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The axle Notch
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Where the floor meets the profile
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Postby peggyearlchris » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:51 pm

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: It's looking great. Good job. :applause: :applause: :applause: Peg
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Postby 2bits » Mon May 05, 2008 10:26 pm

My girl came over this weekend and we got the walls mocked up and finalized the cabinets for height and depth and got all the cabinet plywood for the Galey, rear cabinets, and front cabinets cut and sanded. It feels real good to have the sides on there, even if they are going to have to come down again for routing and staining!

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Postby 2bits » Sat May 10, 2008 9:26 pm

Routed the walls today for the cabinets!

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