Northwestern Build - Updated 7/4/2010 - Done!

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby wlivesey » Fri May 22, 2009 9:19 pm

starleen2 wrote:I like the idea of the dinette, but didn't do it in mine - Rayvillian did the same in his, but commented that He really doesn't use it much - neither would I since I prefer to be outside eating - but could eat inside if necessary. Another tip gleaned from Gary when he built his - Screw the hatch to side walls and construct it from there - believe me it's a lot easier to do it this way. Once the hatch is to a point where its solid - then you can take it off and do painting or whatever. As Mike mentioned before - the 2 inch offset is an absolute must for the hinge joint - that's what I did and I don't have any gaps at the front edge. However if you do this, the wall offset will have to modified to accept the change. Since I did not use the offset, it's not a worry for me. Seriously, I would think of using 3/8 ply or thinner - that Hatch weighs more than you think! :thumbsup:


I'm planning to use 1/4 oak ply for the hatch. It will be framed with poplar and insulated well. Hopefully its not too heavy!
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Postby wlivesey » Sun May 24, 2009 9:51 pm

I finally got around to welding on my LockNRoll hitch this weekend. This should have been a quick job but I ran out of welding wire and had to make a run to Lowes to buy more.

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I also got the bed/dinette framing mostly complete. I had to do a fit so my wife snaped a few pictures. There is a little more work to do but its coming along nicely.

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Postby stomperxj » Sun May 24, 2009 10:19 pm

Wow Bill... Thats lookin really nice. Your framing is going to be bullet proof
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Postby wlivesey » Mon May 25, 2009 9:27 pm

Thanks! I'm definitely over building but I'd rather it be too strong than not strong enough.

My wife picked out some stain and flooring. This will probably look better than the spray paint and duct tape interior I would end up with......

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Postby wlivesey » Mon May 25, 2009 9:46 pm

Here are a couple more pictures of the completed bed/dinette assembly. Even though its a small dinette, it's surprisingly comfortable.

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Postby wlivesey » Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:12 pm

Things have been going slowly since my last post. I've managed to frame up my closet/ac box. I'm thinking about installing a small microwave at the top with a drawer underneath.
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My dad gave me this nice little blower that should do a great job as an exhaust fan for the AC.
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Postby starleen2 » Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:51 pm

Hey Bill, you're coming along nicely - any specs on height, width, etc?
You're always welcome for a trip to Mt. Pleasant for a peak and conversation about the build and maybe a fiberglass lesson or two ;)
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Postby wlivesey » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:17 am

starleen2 wrote:Hey Bill, you're coming along nicely - any specs on height, width, etc?
You're always welcome for a trip to Mt. Pleasant for a peak and conversation about the build and maybe a fiberglass lesson or two ;)


Be careful - I just might take you up on that invitation... :)

Here are the specs according to my plans. The actual build is coming out very close to what you see here.

The bed/dinette area is big enough for an RV Queen mattress. That was a key design consideration for me.

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Refrigerator & water tank

Postby wlivesey » Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:31 pm

I decided to go with a Norcold 12Volt refrigerator. It's very compact and doesn't use much power. It's also easier to install since there are no ventilation concerns as with LP refrigerators.

Originally, I planned to mount the refrigerator beneath the galley, but I like this arrangement better. It move all the weight closer to the axel.

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I also picked up a 10 gallon water tank that will be place just behind the axel and across from the refrigerator and AC.

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Postby wlivesey » Sun Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm

We got to work on the kitchen this weekend. We got it all framed out and built drawers too. It was tons of work!

We used heavy duty drawer slides. This thing should last a life time...
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Even though it was a lot of work, building the drawers was easier than I thought it would be.
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Postby Carter » Sun Jun 07, 2009 7:58 pm

Nice job Bill. I find drawers are much more useful that deep cabinets. I have only one large one in my standy for all the pots, pans and dishes. It works well.

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Postby wlivesey » Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:11 pm

Carter wrote:Nice job Bill. I find drawers are much more useful that deep cabinets. I have only one large one in my standy for all the pots, pans and dishes. It works well.

Jim


Thanks, Jim. I like drawers much better too... Although, as of now, my plans call for a cabinet under the sink. I suppose I could put another large drawer instead... :thinking:
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Postby rebapuck » Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:32 pm

So what do you builders use to keep those drawers from opening?
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Postby wlivesey » Sun Jun 07, 2009 8:36 pm

rebapuck wrote:So what do you builders use to keep those drawers from opening?


I'm planning to use what is called a roller catch. You can find them at your local hardware store. There are many other kinds of drawer catches to choose from... http://rvdiscountsuppliers.com/rv-parts-hardware-cabinet-door-catches.htm
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Postby wlivesey » Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:50 pm

It seems like the kitchen will never end! We've only been working on it for 8 days but it seems like an eternity compared to the progress we've made elsewhere. Though it's taking some time, we really like how it's turning out...

The drawer faces and cabinet doors are made out of 1/2 in Oak plywood. We used Bandit iron on Oak veneer to hide the ugly plywood edge. It was really easy to iron on and looks perfect after it's trimmed and sanded. I couldn't be happier with the results.

We used a little foil to keep our iron clean.
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I trimmed the end off with scissors and filed it smooth. I used the Bandit trim tool to trim the length of the veneer.
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We decided to go with a modern look. I like it!
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