Building The Atma Travelear Teardrop

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Dave,

Not sure what your current configuration is, but this recent layout that you've posted is very similar to mine. I'm even using 28" struts. I'd say that it looks like a winner

I can't be certain about the strength of strut you'll need though. Even after reading many posts on hatch weight vs strut strength, I still see it as trial and error. I I ended up with 100# struts, and my mounting point on my side walls is only 7" from the hinge, instead of your 11". Relatively speaking, the shorter that distance, the stronger the strut is required to be. However, your hatch is a lot longer than mine as well. Too many variables!

[_Ryan_]

Howdy Everyone, The good news is that the AT has been a gas to camp in this season. The bad news is my hatch is too heavy for my wife to lift. With the current gas strut setup the struts actually add weight at bottom of the stroke increasing the 48 pounds to about 55 pounds. Even with 150 pound struts, it doesn't start to really lift until the last 10 inches. Sooo I'm looking at using the other method utilizing a longer spring.

Here's the plan based on Mr. Andrew's thread and design.


Will you good engineers and kind folks please take a gander and let me know if it looks right to you? I really, really, really don't want to do this wrong.

Gratefully yours,

Dave

Hi Dave,

This gas strut orientation is what I used and it is working great. I have a very similar hatch to yours and I am using #130 struts. The great thing about this orientation, which aggie79 has mentioned, is that the hatch will reach an equilibrium at the midpoint of the lift. Below this point the struts will be weaker and it will help keep the hatch closed, above this point the hatch will become stronger and at it will have the most force when the door is fully open. This being said the lift the struts provide are still fairly constant and I can easily lift the entire door from closed to open with the pressure of a single finger.

One note: I actually called the manufacturer and they suggested that the rods be installed on the hatch side so the lubricating fluid is surrounding the seal when the hatch is closed. Since the hatch will be stored closed this should prolong the life of the strut, although you will not get the normal damping effect when it opens.

Good Luck!
Ryan

[drewh1]

Hi Dave - I just wanted to thank you for your response. I continue to learn from your postings.

I see you are in Reno - if you ever are in the Bay Area with your camper, I would buy you lunch so I can meet you and take a look at it!

drew.

[Glenn Butcher]

I've been scratching my head about how to sell this whole Teardrop thing to my wife. This evening, your finished photos caught her eye, and now she's interested...

Thanks!!

[shropshire]

Hi Dave
[quoteWill you good engineers and kind folks please take a gander and let me know if it looks right to you? I really, really, really don't want to do this wrong.][/quote]
Believe me, I am no engineer! But it seems to me that if the mounting bracket on the body end of the strut were moved down below the actual hatch mount, that the strut would be wanting to lift the hatch instead of working against itself on the lower arc. You may end up having to get a longer strut in order to get the hatch high enough. My mind tells me that is simple logic. Perhaps someone has a reason why I'm wrong.
Just my 2 cents worth.

I have my frame metal, tires and wheels, fenders and axle is due this week. I am very anxious to begin our own build soon.

Absolutely LOVE your Travelear!!!!

Allen

[Campin' Texan]

Great job! Where did you find the end caps for your trim?

[serdar]

Dear Dave,
please find gas spring force diagram attached.
It says that, compression power is higher than extension power and first and last 5mm have some fluctations...
This may affect opening force of course.

In shortest (closed) position should be longer than fully closed position to avoid this...

Serdar

http://peerlessengineering.com/

[klhoush]

I just read the entire thread, WOW, I really enjoyed it!

This really shows how much work goes into a nice custom teardrop. Some people think they can buy a sweet TD for $1000 - $3000. Forget about it! Your battery box is worth $1000! Do you have a final tally on the cost?

I've got to get outside and install the trim on the Slumbercoach, and build side tables, and install another kitchen light switch, and, and, etc.

Cheers,

Kurt Housh

[PubUltraStar]

Okay, Summer is officially over. How many times did you get to camp in the Travelear? Any issues? Anything you would have done differently in the build? I'm slowly getting mine together, and almost at a stage to be able to start working on the walls.

[DMcCam]

Hi Guys, Thank you all for your kind input on my hatch problem. Our local engineer Sam Howe has been graciously working on my hatch problem with me; what a great guy! Now we're looking at 28" 180# struts mounted much like the original ones just lower on the hatch and to the counter. The plan I posted would add too much weight to the closed position to be practical darn it.

Great job! Where did you find the end caps for your trim?

Hi Campin, I found them at a local RV parts store. They are standard bare aluminum though they come in white too.

I just read the entire thread, WOW, I really enjoyed it!

This really shows how much work goes into a nice custom teardrop. Some people think they can buy a sweet TD for $1000 - $3000. Forget about it! Your battery box is worth $1000! Do you have a final tally on the cost?

I've got to get outside and install the trim on the Slumbercoach, and build side tables, and install another kitchen light switch, and, and, etc.

Cheers,

Kurt Housh

Thank you very much Kurt! To be candid, I'm kinda scared to add it all up but I'd guess over 7K.

Okay, Summer is officially over. How many times did you get to camp in the Travelear? Any issues? Anything you would have done differently in the build? I'm slowly getting mine together, and almost at a stage to be able to start working on the walls.

Hi ya Mike, Oh man what a great season! We put about 1K miles on her over 5 camping trips (3 gatherings and 2 regular camp outs). The AT loves to be towed. Sits perfectly behind the Element and glides along. I don't really feel her back there much. I would say to anyone building one of these...Trailer Brakes are not an option. I have not had a panic stop yet but with the brakes she stops with the TV as if there's no added weight. There's only one thing I would have done differently, I would have built a little lighter. We could have shaved about 200# off the chassis and a few pounds off the tongue box. Other than that she's perfect for us.

All the Best,

Dave

[Nelsonsrus]

Dave,

I just introduced myself on the newbie page and mentioned that it was your build that has drawn most of my interest. The overall look and feel just strikes something in me.

With that said, I'm hoping you'll give me your permission to "copy" your design and as the build progresses, maybe provide some insight into some of your decisions.

Thanks again for the inspiration and motivation to take the first step in the process.

Bryan

[drewh1]

Hey Dave - you are starting a trend here. Imitation is the best form of flattery.

So my TD, inspired by your build, is coming along and I am preparing to do the wiring. I have a question for you.

I noticed you used three red marker lights on your hatch, I assume for a third brake light. I am curious if these are visible enough mounted on the curve of the hatch. Some LED's are very directional. I like the look of this and want to something similar for mine. I think it looks better than a bar light.

Thanks in advance!

drew.

[DMcCam]

Dave,
I just introduced myself on the newbie page and mentioned that it was your build that has drawn most of my interest. The overall look and feel just strikes something in me. With that said, I'm hoping you'll give me your permission to "copy" your design and as the build progresses, maybe provide some insight into some of your decisions. Thanks again for the inspiration and motivation to take the first step in the process.
Bryan

Hi Bryan, Of course you can copy the AT for your very own personal trailer Sir! I'll be happy to help in any way I can. Remember to have fun!

Hey Dave - you are starting a trend here. Imitation is the best form of flattery.
So my TD, inspired by your build, is coming along and I am preparing to do the wiring. I have a question for you.
I noticed you used three red marker lights on your hatch, I assume for a third brake light. I am curious if these are visible enough mounted on the curve of the hatch. Some LED's are very directional. I like the look of this and want to something similar for mine. I think it looks better than a bar light.
Thanks in advance!
drew.

Hi Drew, I'm glad you like the design Sir! The LED's are actually just marker lights on the AT. With the width, she didn't need them to be break lights. I liked the look of them in that position and they are plenty bright. The curve doesn't seem to matter.

All the Best,

Dave

[Nelsonsrus]

Dave,

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the trailer materials and was curious about your comment on things you might have changed. You said you thought you may have been able to lighten the chassis a couple hundred pounds. We're you thinking about going with a lighter gauge steel for the frame or was it something in the design?

I don't know that the weight is an issue. I was just curious since I'm basing my trailer design on yours, why mess with success right? I may add a couple receivers for a table or bike rack, but that's about it for changes.

Again, thanks for your build details.

Bryan

[Tinbasher]

I love the shape and the way you have gotten the Deco style spot on.

I'm wondering if I can squeeze it down to 7 x 3 keeping the proportions, as a lightweight sleeper only for the trike.

Tin (Tom)