Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" long boarding foa

Postby angib » Mon May 28, 2012 11:20 am

Larry C wrote:I highly recommend using a long board throughout your build. :thumbsup:

That is a proper boatbuilder's longboard - though I have seen an eight-foot two-person board being used on flat work - and my former boatbuilder boss putting six guys on a length of two-inch plastic pipe wrapped with sandpaper to get his own boat's bottom to have a perfectly fair bottom....

I would suggest, for all sorts of purposes, having 'shortboards' too. As you say, power sanders just leave any bumps untouched except to put a smooth finish on their surface. 3M sell a very nice longboard for auto refinishing as shown below but the self-adhesive strips for it are the really useful item. I use them to stick onto perfectly square-edged pieces of MDF to make wood files - they cover a large enough area to make any surface flat and because they are rock hard, they cut only on the high spots and don't touch the low spots. So a few minutes rubbing with either of these will remove anything that isn't flat - for example, getting the filler over a screw/nail head perfectly flat with the surrounding surface.

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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

Postby Larry C » Wed Jun 06, 2012 7:26 am

KCStudly wrote:Linuxmanxxx has championed 3M 30NF Fastbond Green contact adhesive and it is what I have purchased for adhereing my foam to inner wall skins; not cheap though. Probably in the same range as epoxy, but water clean-up, long working time, no ratios to mix, and made by first quality manufacturer specifically intended for foam to wood, and other applications.

Others have said they used it with good results, too. I have not used it yet, but I do not see where you can go wrong using 3M products as they were intended; they get it right.


I agree about 3M products quality. I have been thinking about giving the 3M 30NF a try for gluing my outer skins on my sandwich wall. It sounds like just the ticket for gluing plywood to foam. However, after studying the MSDS I think I will stick with Epoxy that I know how to safely handle. 3M 30NF may be "green" for the environment, but not so much for humans. Don't breath it, have skin contact, or let vapors get in your eyes!! :( I think I'll stay with epoxy....
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" long boarding foa

Postby NathanL » Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:56 am

Yeah but 90% of the stuff in a MSDS only applies to you if you live in CA...... :D
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" long boarding foa

Postby KCStudly » Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:17 pm

I don't mean to be or sound aggressive at all with this reply, just expressing my opinion. :D 8)

Haven't read the MSDS for epoxy, but I would lay some pretty strong odds that it says the exact same thing; wear proper PPE and appropriate clothing. I am certain that there are some chemicals in there with some long man made names that sound like exotic racing fuels.

There is no product in the world (except purpose made skin cream, eye drops, inhalers, medicines, etc.) that is going to say that it is okay to inhale, swim in, and/or pour in your eyes. Even those medicines have a laundry list of side effects that so often times sound like the exact thing that they are trying to cure.

In my experience, these same precautions apply to 99.9% of all aerosols and most chemicals, and it is just good plain sense to cover up by wearing long sleeves, an appropriate respirator, and eye protection. Hell, I do that when I'm cutting wood. :shock: Ever get beer in your eyes?

No sir, I'm not going to lather either the adhesive or the epoxy on my skin, face or lungs, but I am sure they are both useful and safe products when used properly.

Everybody worries so much about the end product being dangerous, but so many disregard the effects of the manufacturing process that went into a product. I do agree that the term "green" or even the implication that something is "green" (in the ecological sense) or healthy because some marketing guy decided to put a splash of color on a product label has been over used and abused.
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" long boarding foa

Postby Larry C » Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:15 pm

KCStudly wrote:I don't mean to be or sound aggressive at all with this reply, just expressing my opinion. :D 8)

Haven't read the MSDS for epoxy, but I would lay some pretty strong odds that it says the exact same thing; wear proper PPE and appropriate clothing. I am certain that there are some chemicals in there with some long man made names that sound like exotic racing fuels.

There is no product in the world (except purpose made skin cream, eye drops, inhalers, medicines, etc.) that is going to say that it is okay to inhale, swim in, and/or pour in your eyes. Even those medicines have a laundry list of side effects that so often times sound like the exact thing that they are trying to cure.

In my experience, these same precautions apply to 99.9% of all aerosols and most chemicals, and it is just good plain sense to cover up by wearing long sleeves, an appropriate respirator, and eye protection. Hell, I do that when I'm cutting wood. :shock: Ever get beer in your eyes?

No sir, I'm not going to lather either the adhesive or the epoxy on my skin, face or lungs, but I am sure they are both useful and safe products when used properly.

Everybody worries so much about the end product being dangerous, but so many disregard the effects of the manufacturing process that went into a product. I do agree that the term "green" or even the implication that something is "green" (in the ecological sense) or healthy because some marketing guy decided to put a splash of color on a product label has been over used and abused.


KC, Thank you for your opinion, I value everyones opinion.. :thumbsup: That's how we learn. What bothers me is this product has been presented as a "SAFE" alternative to other chemical adhesives. That's what attracted me to it. However, IMHO this information is not exactly correct. This is probably a great product as are most products form this manufacturer, but to me It's just another nasty chemical adhesive that requires special handling like all the rest of them, including epoxy! I think products like Titebond 2 or some of the construction adhesives are much safer, but that's just my opinion.
BTW/ This is my build thread. If further discussion is needed please take it to the main forum. :worship:

Thanks,

Larry
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" long boarding foa

Postby dodgedartgt » Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:18 pm

Hi Larry,

Beautiful, DETAILED build. Curious if there has been any further progress, or if you're on hiatus again?

Thnx, Mike in FL
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

Postby Larry C » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:55 am

dodgedartgt wrote:Hi Larry,

Beautiful, DETAILED build. Curious if there has been any further progress, or if you're on hiatus again?

Thnx, Mike in FL


Hi Mike,
Thanks for the comment, and your interest. When it's nice outside I have a hard time working on "fun stuff" I always have "real work" staring at me. This summer was spent stripping and repainting every window and exterior door in my house :cry: Because I am cursed with being Type A and Anal... every project becomes a major undertaking that takes a lot more time, and effort than it should :noyes:


Stay tuned....
Larry

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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More" Roof Spars

Postby Larry C » Sat Aug 03, 2013 8:42 am

I am finally getting back to my build. In my pursuit of light weight, I have been thinking ahead about whether I actually need roof spars? Here's my reasoning:
My walls are rabbeted so my ceiling will rest on a narrow shelf (rabbet) cut out of the wall. The 1/8" ply ceiling will be epoxied glued to the walls. I will probably apply a fillet of thickened epoxy to the inside wall/ceiling joint.

The rabbet only allows 3/4" thick spars which means I have to lay my 3/4" X 1-1/2" spars flat which is the weak way. The rest of the trailer roof will be filled with blue foam, another 1/8" ply outer skin, and a layer of fiberglass/epoxy.

My question is: Will this curved plywood 1" thick glued sandwich panel with seams taped and or filleted, and external fiberglass allow me to eliminate most of the spars. I know I will need some spars for the vent and for the hatch hinge, but do I really need the rest of the spars? :thinking:

Larry
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

Postby aggie79 » Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:39 am

Larry,

Good to see you back at work. I was hoping to see an update.

With your build skills, and a curved profile of your teardrop, I really see no need for roof spars to support the span. This assumes there will be a bulkhead and maybe some cabinetry to help prevent racking. The only wood needed would be for nailers/fasteners.

Although I did you 1x2 roof spars on edge @ 16" o.c covered with 1/8" ply each side with foam generally adhered between the plywood, I'm convinced they are not necessary even if there is a flat area on the profile provided there is good adhesion between the foam and plywood. As a test, I stood on my roof mid span between spars and my 200# weight barely caused any deflection in the outer 1/8" plywood.

BTW, thank you for helping me think through the ACM panels.

Take care,
Tom
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

Postby Corwin C » Sun Aug 04, 2013 11:01 pm

I am planning a "foamie" type build and the only spars will be for attachment points for the front cabinets, fantastic fan, and galley hinge (ply headliner, three laminated layers of 1/2" foam, paint/canvas finish). As long as the ply is held to a curve, the strength should be adequate.
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Re: Ultralight Stripper AKA "Less is More"

Postby Larry C » Wed May 16, 2018 9:43 am

Well - it looks like I will never finish this build so if anyone is interested I would sell it unfinished. This includes most (new) materials to finish. I am in the Finger Lakes Region of New York State. PM me for further details if interested.
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