Terry's TTT Garageable Standy Build modifications

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Terry's TTT Garageable Standy Build modifications

Postby terryjones1 » Wed Oct 13, 2010 11:55 am

My TTT requirements:

want garageable <84" height
- I have to park it in garage.
want "standy" >69" inside height (drop floor)
- I am <68-1/2" tall.
want >= 60" wide bed
- Nice size.
want 26" W door
- Looks big enough to go through,
want drop floor - 7"
- need to be garageable & "standy"
want 48" dinette
- nice size. can fold to 2nd bed.
want 12 DCV refrigerator (left side, next to dinette)
- I have had 3 DC refrigerators previously.
- Norcold DC51 has very low current draw.
want porta potti (right side at dropped floor, under refrigerator)
- needs to slide out, primarily for night use.
want water sys (sink at left side, tanks under bed)
- like simple water system
want AC
- can get hot in areas that I go to.
want Group 31 AGM battery (under bed)
- need large battery, primarily for refrigerator.
want trailer to be <192" (16 ft) overall
- want to register in California as Permanent Trailer.
want converter/charger
- Power center & battery charger

Plans - Decided upon the following:

Axle

UCF Flexiride Axle - 3500 lb downrated to 2500 lb
Bracket Diminsion = 56"
Hubface 68.5"
Overhang = 6.25"

5 x 4.5 hub & drum
10" x 2.25" electric brakes
wheels - 5 x 4.5 - 14" - rim width 6" - no offset
tires - 195/75-14 - 7.68" tire width, 23.2" diameter

Frame

Main Frame = 2" x 3" - .120 tubing
Main Frame at drop floor = 2" x 2" - .188 tubing
Back of frame to start of drop floor = 73-3/4"
(bed width = 60")
Back of frame to end of drop floor = 102-3/4"
drop floor height = 7"
drop floor back to front = 28"
Back of frame to front of frame (excluding tongue) = 151-1/2"
dinette width = 48"
Back of frame to end of A-frame = 181.75"
Back of frame to end of tongue = 190.75"
Back of frame to center of axle = 58"
Main Frame width = 56"
Overall frame width = 78"

Body

Overall body length = 152"
Overall body width = 78-1/2"
Inside & outside wall covering, roof inside & outside covering = 1/4" plywood
Side Wall framing = 3/4" H x 1" W actual size (3/4" H x 1-1/2" W at seams)
Front & back wall framing = 1" H x 1-1/2" W
Roof framing (spars) = 1" H x 3/4" W (1" H x 1" W at seams)
Outside side & roof finish covering = epoxy + paint
Entrance door will be on right side
Two windows will be on both sides. None in front or rear
Fantastic Vent at front wall
Air Conditioneer/heater at back wall

I will make height clearance measurements, every foot, or so, as I back trailer frame into garage. From that, I will be able to determine body height, and final shape. Trailer will have rounded off front & back

Inside

front dinette = 48" width x >72" length (folds into 48" W bed)
rear bed >= 64" width x >= 76" length
cabinet on left side at drop floor that will hold refrigerator & Porta Potti
cabinet at right to rear of door
sink & faucet will be on cabinet
water tanks under bed
Portable 1 burner stove on cabinet
AGM battery under bed
Converter/charger will be mounted at the side of left bench seat.
Window Air Conditioneer at back.
Storage - under bed, under dinette benches, in cabinets

I have made my first steps in getting started with my TTT project.

I have drawn frame plans & floor plans, using Design CAD.

I have purchased most of steel.

I have ordered the Flexiride axle.

I have ordered & received the wheel rims, tongue, stabilizer jacks, tongue jack.

I have cut the steel for 80% of the main frame.

I have welded plates to the ends of the main frame tubing.

I am on hold until I receive the axle.

Just to provide some picture. Below is most of the cut steel tubing for the main frame:

Image
Last edited by terryjones1 on Mon Sep 23, 2013 12:22 pm, edited 43 times in total.
My TTT Garageable Standy Build Journal: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=40591
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Postby terryjones1 » Wed Oct 13, 2010 1:18 pm

deleted
Last edited by terryjones1 on Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby terryjones1 » Sat Oct 16, 2010 5:24 pm

Shown below is the two side rails of the main frame. Notice the 7" drop floor. Next I will install the A-frame, tongue and cross framing

Image
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Postby wlivesey » Sat Oct 16, 2010 6:18 pm

It looks like you've got a really great start on your build. Your chassis is looking great. Since you haven't decided on the profile quite yet, I'll throw in my two cents. How about something with a Widget influence??? Maybe something like my Long Widget design would work for you. http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=636661&sid=2dcdfdd519426f662e19b47c6fb839c6

I'm going to have to keep an eye on this one. :)
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Postby myoung » Sun Oct 17, 2010 12:30 am

From what I can read between the lines, it seems like you are going to build quite a large TTT. Hope you will post the plans soon. This should be interesting.
Mike Young
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Postby terryjones1 » Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:44 pm

Shown below is a rough profile drawing of what the trailer will look like.
The windows and door will probably be rounded.
The final profile will be determined on clearance measurements that I will make while backing the finished frame with tires mounted, into the garage.
The approach to my garage is slightly uphill.

Image
Last edited by terryjones1 on Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby terryjones1 » Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:03 pm

I had deleted the previous profile.
Last edited by terryjones1 on Sat Dec 11, 2010 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby terryjones1 » Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:33 pm

Shown below is the floor Plan:

Image

I am now approximately 80 % complete with construction of the frame. I will soon post pictures of the frame.
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Terry's TTT Standy Build - Flexiride Axle

Postby terryjones1 » Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:06 am

After 5 trys and 2 months, I finally received a Flexiride Axle that was manufactued as I specified.

Specifications:
side mount
3500 pound axle
downrated to 2500 pounds
bracket deminsion = 56"
hub face = 68.5"
overhand = 6.25"

Image

I will now weld on axle side mount brackets that I made.
Welding on frame is 98% complete.
Painting on frame is 50% complete.
1/2" flooring plywood is 100% cut and trimed to fit frame.
Pictures will follow when frame is finished painting.
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Postby terryjones1 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:13 pm

Below is a picture of a setup I tryed for straightening frame warp from welding. I broke the 1/4" steel rope. That was the end of that adventure.

Image

I have cut out all of the plywood floring for the trailer. I used 1/2" AC plywood. I treated the plywood edges, and knots & voids on "C" side of plywood with 2 coats of ROT Doctor's CPES. After the CPES treatment, I filled the Knots & voids on the "C" side of the plywood with RAKA 127/608 epoxy kit thickened with pine sawdust filler. Below is a picture of the larger pieces of flooring plywood

Image

Below is a picture of the small pieces of plywood. These will be used at the drop floor setback, the rear of fender area, and the front of fender area.

Image

Next, I will be applying fiberglass to the plywood at rear of fender area, and the front of fender area.

I will , also, be splicing plywood for front and back floor areas.

I have pretty much completed the frame.

When I remove the plywood & plastic cover for the frame I will post pictures of frame.
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Postby bdosborn » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:49 pm

terryjones1 wrote:Shown below is the floor Plan:

Image

I am now approximately 80 % complete with construction of the frame. I will soon post pictures of the frame.


Interesting, will you have a door in the back?

Bruce
2009 6.5'X11' TTT - Boxcar
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Postby 2bits » Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:54 pm

I will enjoy watching this build! You have the eye and skill for detail!
Thomas

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Postby terryjones1 » Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:56 am

The door will be on the right side of the trailer. I know that it is hard to see; but, it is marked "Entry" in red.
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Postby terryjones1 » Fri Dec 10, 2010 11:32 am

list deleted
Last edited by terryjones1 on Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby bdosborn » Fri Dec 10, 2010 2:51 pm

terryjones1 wrote:The door will be on the right side of the trailer. I know that it is hard to see; but, it is marked "Entry" in red.


You might think about a door in the rear. That way the sleeper next to the wall doesn't have to crawl over the other to get out in the middle of the night.
Bruce
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