Desert Moose logo painted on

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Desert Moose logo painted on

Postby desertmoose » Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:57 am

Image

I lost the image links on the first build journal. I didn't have time to try to recreate the posts, so I let it die.

Still don't have a lot of time to explain every step, but I have made progress on the tear.

Either look at my personal album here, or go to:

http://photobucket.com/horny_towd_teardrop

to see the build pictures.

Sam and Kat
Last edited by desertmoose on Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:00 am, edited 12 times in total.
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Postby aggie79 » Thu Aug 18, 2011 5:05 pm

Sam and Kat,

Sorry to hear about the previous postings being lost (or at least the links.) You have a real nice build in progress there!

Take care,
Tom
Tom (& Linda)
For build info on our former Silver Beatle teardrop:
Build Thread

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canvas and evil black goo

Postby desertmoose » Wed Aug 24, 2011 12:52 pm

This weekend, Kat and I covered the exterior of the tear with canvas.

First step was to unbolt the body from the trailer frame, and jack the body up and support it on stands about 4" above the frame.

We glued the canvas on with full strength Titebond 2. Applied the glue with a roller, than positioned and smoothed down the canvas. Let it set, trimmed the edges for the desired overlap, then glued the overlap down. The reason for lifting the body was now apparent when we wrapped the canvas under the bottom edge and glued it underneath the body with about a 4” overlap. This was to seal the exposed ply edges of the deck.

[img]http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?mode=thumbnail&album_id=312&image_id=85524/[img]

Once we had the sides covered, we put the canvas on the top and front in the same way. This proved to be a bit more of a challenge due to the high temps and low humidity. The glue was drying faster than we could position the canvas. We ended up applying the glue in smaller areas, holding the canvas off and rolling on the glue, smoothing it down, the going to the next area. Finally got it done.

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Next step was applying one coat of thinned paint to the canvas, especially on the overlap under the floor.

Monday, Kat went to work, while I had the job of applying the evil black goo (asphalt roof coating) to the bottom of the body. This was not fun. No room underneath to fully sit up, concrete floor to lay on, and all the frame cross members, spare tire mount, etc. to work around.

With the goo dripping down my arm and splattering into my hair (what I have left of it anyways), I proceeded to put the goo over the whole bottom, including the 4” canvas overlap on the edges. Let it dry, and then applied a second coat. After that dried, I eased the body back down close to the frame. I put a hefty bead of caulk on the edges of the frame and dropped the body in place. Bolted it down, and cleaned the caulk squeeze out along the frame/ body joint.

The ply bottom should be fairly well protected now.

Next step is to paint the canvas with at least two coats of paint to weatherproof it.
Last edited by desertmoose on Sun Jul 04, 2021 12:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby Oldragbaggers » Thu Aug 25, 2011 12:44 pm

That's a beautiful job applying the canvas!!

Becky
Life is sooooo good.........
Sail...camp....bike...repeat
Becky

Build Journal http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=45917
Visit our blog at http://www.oldragbaggers.com
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Postby millstone » Fri Aug 26, 2011 9:29 am

Great job on the canvas. Any secrets?
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Postby desertmoose » Fri Aug 26, 2011 10:49 am

millstone wrote:Great job on the canvas. Any secrets?


Thanks, guys.

Other than what I mentioned already, let's see what I can remember....

I used a router to put a 3/16 radius on the edges before starting the canvas.

We bought painters drop cloths from Harbor Freight for the canvas. Untreated cotton 10 ounce fabric. We were disappointed to find a seam in the middle of the "tarp" and had to change the orientation of the canvas after cutting the piece to remove the seam. We did end up with one overlap seam on each side, and on the roof. We applied the rear pieces first, so the front piece overlaps the rear piece. That's to keep the headwind from towing from lifting the seam. (I don't think it would have lifted even if we did it backwards, the glue really stuck it down.)

After trimming the hems from the canvas, we laid the canvas on the driveway, and soaked it good with the hose to preshrink it. it shrank a LOT. 10 foot wide before shrinking was under 9 feet after shrinking. I pre shrunk it because I was worried it might shrink while the glue was drying and pull the overlap around the corner.

We applied the canvas flat and let the untrimmed overlap hang while the glue set up, then went back, trimmed the overlap to size and glued it down.

Trimming the overlap evenly proved a challenge. We tried scissors guided along a spacer block, and using an x-acto knife along a block.
Marking the overlap with a pencil and following the line with scissors proved to be the most accurate.

After trimming the overlap, we used a small brush to apply the glue to the overlap, then worked along the seam smoothing the overlap with our palms. It was surprising to us how easy it was to "bend" it around the corner without wrinkles.

No pictures yet, but we have put the first thinned coat of exterior latex pain and second full strength coat on the canvas. One more full strength coat, and it should be done. We are pleased with how it looks so far, a bit nervous about how it will hold up.

With our intense summer sun, and snow in the winter, we are planning on building a shed to keep the tear in to protect it when not in use. Doing that, I'm hoping it will hold up for years without any attention.

Sam and Kat (fingers crossed)
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paint done, starting hatch framing

Postby desertmoose » Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:10 pm

Finished the paint on the body. It took 4 coats.

Image

Started the framing for the hatch. Getting closer.

Image
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Working on the hatch

Postby desertmoose » Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:51 am

The hatch is coming along.

adding the first piece of skin (1/8 hardboard)

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Hatch skinned. two pieces of skin are different colors, but will be covered in canvas and painted, so it doesn't matter.

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adding stringers inside hatch to reinforce the skin

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Inside of the hatch

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next step is to put it in place, trim the sides, then cover with the canvas.
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Postby campmaster-k » Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:52 pm

That is one stout hatch. Good work. :thumbsup:
How much you think that hatch weighs in at?
-Kirk

>TnTTT ORIGINAL 200A LANTERN CLUB

>CEO Coleman Recovery Inc.

>Nor Cal Camping Pinewood Racing Team


Build thread -

viewtopic.php?t=45307&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=180

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http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... 0QQtppZZ24
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Postby desertmoose » Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:38 pm

Right as it sits, it weighs 54 pounds. With the material fairly evenly distributed, the hinge will carry most of the weight in the lowest position and half the weight when the hatch is horizontal. That means it will take about 30 pounds to hold it up.

I'm trying to avoid gas shocks, and use a prop rod instead for simplicity and reliability.. We'll see how it goes. :thinking:
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Postby cuyeda » Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:21 pm

Are the clamps used on the hatch home brew? I don't remember where I saw an article about making your own DYI clamps. Wondering if you made yours.
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Postby desertmoose » Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:25 am

Yep, I made those clamps over 20 years ago. They work good.

I made a tutorial some time back on how to make them. If you're interested in making a set, I'll send it to you if you want to give me your e-mail.

Sam
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Postby cuyeda » Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:20 am

Yes, it may have been your previous post that I read info on. Great job on your build! PM sent.
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Postby desertmoose » Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:01 pm

Well, we decided we wouldn't camp in it this year, but I haven't given up on the Horny Tow'd.

I have finished the hatch. it took 32 pounds to hold it in the open position. Not too bad, but it's tall enough Kat had trouble holding the weight while getting the temporary prop rod in position. I decided to add the gas struts instead.

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Works great. I also have the vent installed in the roof.

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Now it's on to the doors. 1/2 ply, 1-1/2 insulation between 2x2 framing, and paneling on the inside.

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took a lot of clamps and weights to glue them up.

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will be hanging the doors soon, I hope.

Sam
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anti whoops added

Postby desertmoose » Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:44 am

Looking at the hatch, now that it's done, I decided it was too exposed to damage from a bump in traffic (or more likely, from me backing it into a tree). The 1/8 hardboard skin on the hatch would be munched pretty quick in that case.

I didn't put a bumper on originally because I wanted easy access to the galley. A bumper would be a shin knocker.

I finally settled on the following. I welded hitch receivers on each side of the frame.

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Then I made a removable bumper held in place with hitch pins. Protected while traveling, and take it off for access while camping.

This also opens up the possibility of attaching a side table, etc while camping.

Image

Image

I did lose a bit of ground clearance doing this, but I think it's worth it.
I'll be painting the bumper when I touch up the frame paint at the end.

Sam
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