Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Postby jonw » Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:38 am

canned o minimum wrote:Wonderful job ! Did it all come in AT or UNDER budget ? How much does it weigh ?


I cost about twice as much as I was hoping it would, but that number was probably unrealistic to begin with. It still cost less than what I could have bought a new one for, was a good challenge and learning experience, and is customized for what I want, so I'm not unhappy.

It weighs 720lbs including the memory foam mattress, which is probably 20-30 pounds.
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Re: RE: Build Journal

Postby jonw » Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:48 am

mezmo wrote:Hi jonw,

Congrats on your build - nice looking TD you've built there!
(...snip...)
Since each build has its own interesting details, I especially like your hatch
handle/lock and the hatch supports with the stow clips. But I was curious if
they are" secured" when in the opened position, so the hatch can't get
blown further upwards by a wind gust, since that is what prompted you to
change to the new 'secured for travel' supports. I really couldn't tell by
the pic.

Thanks Norm.

It may not have been the wind that got me. I suspect it just the downward weight of the hatch causing the dowel bottom to start slipping on the slippery vinyl tiles, that threw the bottom of the dowel to plunge into the back of the wall.

To answer your question, I currently have no locking mechanism that prevents the hatch from lifting up. It would have to be a pretty strong wind to lift it enough that the hold-open struts would clear the block of wood that keeps them from collapsing towards the centerline of the trailer.

If this does turn out to be a problem I can always add a hook and eye latch or something else to hold the bottom of the strut on the little shelf it sits on when open.

Thanks again
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Postby canned o minimum » Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:23 pm

Either a taller block or simply drill ahole on a downward angle and put a nail in it to hold it .. slips in and out easily.. cheap insurance.
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Postby Senior Ninja » Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:24 pm

Beautiful. Unique. Certainly a work of art. Now let the memories of camping and family begin.
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wow!!

Postby The Teardrop Nanny » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:30 pm

:) Jon, you have the best layout , documentation, and presentation !!
It is also wonderful that you gave such detailed description along with the photos. And how nice you sought your wife's input and actually built in those specs.
After trying out a number of different types of TD's, I definitely knew some things I wanted in one, and some things I did not. You'll probably appreciate the fact that you went 5 wide, and I know she will for sure.
Well done! :applause: :applause:
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Postby Facemeltingly Epic » Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:28 pm

Nice work!

Also, it's nice to know that I'm not the only on the forum using a Miata as a tow vehicle. :)
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Re: Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

Postby jonw » Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:44 pm

Installed the hitch this spring, so here are some pictures of it behind my Miata:

Image

Image
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Build updates/refinements

Postby jonw » Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:21 pm

It's been a while since I've posted but I've made some changes and did some finishing, so here are some pictures

A panorama of the interior, now with carpet padding and carpeting. We found the uninsulated floor was too cold in cold weather. This helps a lot.
92021

Finalized the electrical system by installing a 750W Harbor Freight inverter to run my wife's CPAP machine when boondocking. Unfortunately we only get about a night and a half out of the battery before the inverters low battery alarm goes off. I'll post the solution to that once it's installed in a later post, but for now here is the switching that allows both shore and inverter 120v power, and prevents both the inverter and battery charger from being connected to the battery simulaneously:
91378

And here's the galley finished with the hatch and storage area now insulated, and the inside of the hatch covered with a piece of Coroplast:
92022
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Lost Hatch Refurb..

Postby jonw » Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:47 pm

The companion/continuation thread to this build journal is at http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=56526&p=1024000#p1024000, which was a major refurb after two years use and losing the hatch on a long trip.

Thanks.
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Re: Final Finishing Touches

Postby lfrazer98 » Wed Jun 11, 2014 4:57 pm

jonw wrote:I needed something to hold the hatch open and I was not enthralled with using gas struts, nor had I seen anything on the forum that I liked. I had been using a dowel with chair leg bumpers on both ends but the wind blew the hatch and the dowel collapsed and nearly went through the bedroom wall. So I designed this simple system that works great:
Image

I got ideas for pull-down cabinet doors and a pull-out shelf from some other teardrops at that weekend. Here's what I did:
Image

And here's a panorama shot of the finished interior
Image

So, that's it! I hope you find what I did interesting and helpful and useful if you decide to build your own teardrop. And I hope to meet every one of you at campouts in the coming years!


Loved reading this in its entirety! How did you attach the slide out shelf under your interior cabinets? Did you use "C" channel aluminum? I like the idea and may add one under my interior cabinets! I also really like your "struts" and think I will be making my own as well. Thanks for your help!
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Re: Final Finishing Touches

Postby jonw » Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:47 am

lfrazer98 wrote:Loved reading this in its entirety! How did you attach the slide out shelf under your interior cabinets? Did you use "C" channel aluminum? I like the idea and may add one under my interior cabinets! I also really like your "struts" and think I will be making my own as well. Thanks for your help!


Hi Lauren -

The slide out shelf mechanism is all wood and low-tech friction fit. I cut a rabbet on the top of the pieces that screw underneath the cabinets and a rabbet on the bottom of the side frames of shelf. This picture shows them:
Image

Re: the hatch "struts" I strongly suggest doing them as I modified them in my refurb journal after losing the hatch because they were not secured when open, and blew over backwards in a strong wind springing the hurricane hinge. Everything is the same except for the shelf on which the bottom of the strut rests when open. It now is secured with trunk latches (readily available at any hardware store) and looks like this:
Image

Hope this helps!
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Re: Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

Postby KCStudly » Thu Jun 12, 2014 2:51 pm

That's a nice piece of craftsmanship right there! :thumbsup: :applause:

Lauren, Something to check first, tho, is if your hatch is light enough when built for you to lift it comfortably and hold it up with one hand while you manipulate the struts with the other. Depending on your hatch construction, they can get heavy. If you are not sure how heavy your hatch will be, I would plan for both the hydraulic struts and the simple folding struts, then you can go either way without having to rethink (or rework) anything.
Last edited by KCStudly on Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

Postby Oldragbaggers » Thu Jun 12, 2014 4:58 pm

Great idea with the trunk latches, Jon. And your tear is just beautiful. You really did a great job.
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Re: Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

Postby jonw » Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:15 am

Thanks KC and Becky, and excellent point about the hatch weight KC.

My hatch is light enough for me to lift and hold with one arm while securing the strut with the other. That probably wouldn't be the case with a hatch that extends all the way to the floor...
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Re: Lightweight TD build based on Mike's Ultralight design

Postby John H » Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:11 am

Hey jonw, very nice build. Very quick build. I'll be revisiting when i start mine.
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