Cross Bow / trolley / renamed little blue trolley

[RandyG]

I would also like a table saw for those small strips, if you find a buy 2 for 1 deal, I'll take one.
Is all of the framing pine? How do you feel it will hold up? I have a problem stripping screws in softer woods.

[Ron Dickey]

I would also like a table saw for those small strips, if you find a buy 2 for 1 deal, I'll take one.
Is all of the framing pine? How do you feel it will hold up? I have a problem stripping screws in softer woods.

my first trailer the box kite is made the same way. The walls that were attached to it were oak. I built it in 2007 and took it to the 20 dam gathering this year. I have had not problems with it just the frame which was made out of an old boat trailer which was dip from time to time in the Pacific Ocean. broke the tung and a Axel weld. the first trailer was frame was built using air gun with staples and glue. This one I am using the same air gun and pocket screw system. shown earlier in this post. Oh and glue. last time I used gorilla glue this time tightbond II I plan to use Gorilla glue on the walls.

Take a look on Craigslist you might be pleasantly surprised.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I keep improving on what I want to do.

I have not done a wood run for a while but better know what I need now.

1. 2/16 inch 4x8 plywood, 1 for inside arch, 1 for inside wall, 1 for sides of saddle bags
2. 3/16 inch 4x8 plywood, 1 for the other outside wall

the frame for the saddle bags have been a trial I have thought of pipe to heavy, conduit not as heavy, wood frame like a how you would make a glider or kayak, I am now thinking of a light wood frame with metal corner reinforcements and using metal "L"bracket at base of trailer frame. I have considered and am still considering used a square box design with a cable running between the outside lower corner and the inside top corner for extra support.

I am now back to thinking about using 2 batteries that will ride above the wheels.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=57154

[Ron Dickey]

after cutting the 4x8 luan board in half so the grain could go up and down so when I bent it, it would not crack.
Today I cut those two boards down to 27 1/2 inch so they would meet in the center.

I put up the roof again, earlier I cut the roof so it would stop where the galley started. So as I do another trial run for the front bow I could see sure enough the roof and the walls will line up nicely.


I was able to get the blade off the old skill saw table that I had so I can save up for the DeWalt 10" table saw I want in hopes it will go on sale for Christmas.

I bought a new blade and some Gorilla Glue. I need to sand down the areas of the luan that I cut with the saber saw earlier. Then I can put the front on and be able to cut two strips of wood at an angle that will let me attach the area where the side walls meet with the bow walls. I will probably need to cut a strip of wood to hide the seam.

Then I will buy the sheets of wood as mentioned earlier, so I can put up the sidewalls. These walls will help me figure out how the saddle will ride, and the wires will go. Yesterday I bought a 2x4 killed dried to replace the ones I have in the front to reduce the weight. Then I can begin on the trolley. I will make the trolley walls out of papular wood. And once I have the trolley too sides cut to their basic design. then I will be able to figure where to cut the roof so the trolley sides can slide inside it cut out insert area.

Moving right along.
Ron

[Ron Dickey]

under Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques
it was asked
screen door ideas for teardrop
by catinmoon » Mon Jul 22, 2013 12:12 pm

Re: screen door ideas for teardrop
by mezmo » Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:15 pm

Some of the 1950s House Trailers had sliding screen doors
that slid back along the wall when not in use and were out
of the way when not used.

Maybe a mini version of that could work in a TD - provided
you can spare a couple inches - or slightly more - of inside width.
Remember you can use 1x2 [3/4in x 1 1/2in] wood for the door
structure. It just needs to be able to hold the screening and be
stout enough to take the sliding motion.

I noted that I was in my build and might try that. I seems that I can move the walls back just a little inside and the slider screens could be inserted just very thin maybe sheet metal with the center cut out. and a strip on top and bottom to keep the screen in place. hmmm have to think about that more.
Ron

[mezmo]

Ron,

Maybe you could re-purpose and modify an aluminum framed
"screen pane" from an aluminum screen door or an aluminum
storm window ? [Or even have one made up by a window place ?]
That'd have a sturdy perimeter frame and is quite thin and would
be more rigid than a piece of sheet metal.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Ron Dickey]

Ron,

Maybe you could re-purpose and modify an aluminum framed
"screen pane" from an aluminum screen door or an aluminum
storm window ? [Or even have one made up by a window place ?]
That'd have a sturdy perimeter frame and is quite thin and would
be more rigid than a piece of sheet metal.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

I have had several thoughts on a screen door
1 it would need to be thin but strong
2 if were to be attached to the door, if I remember how it was done on the old trailers I will have to look at a old shasta. I would need a double hinge door and screen.
3. I could do a slider, it would have to come from the hinge side.
4. I would want something that would be ezy and quick to get by in or out.
5. Last time I was a IRG there was a couple I did a photo put it failed, they had a all glass door and used a overhead pull down shade for at night. They took an old pull down shade removed the fabric and put on some they liked and matched the trailer.
5a. I am thinking of put in either a pull down shade with a weight on the bottom but screen material instead!
5b I could use magnet cut down the middle screen, or just push it to the side, however I would need to put it back for it to work.
6 if I were to do a slider screen I would need to take a sheet of aluminum cut out the middle and put a strip of some sort over the screen to keep it framed. maybe rivets or strong glue to keep it stiff and a fabric pull or wood knob on it.

I like the door with swing away screen attached, followed by the pull down screen best.

>Change of subject.....

I almost got the wood for the trolley but realized I was not sure how thick ti should be

I will need to route out a thin area for the stained plexiglass. And still have enough thick ness to cur out square holes on the other side, while having enough thickness for a design to rest in the box.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I have done amazingly well so far.

As I work on the arch I begin to see that I should have made the front studs longer I have to make up for the distance to the roof. The floor of the arch and the roof a heavier then they need. I would rather fill it with things that I want to take along then have it as weight that just stays there.

The Galley in the rear will counter balance that extra weight on the bumper, I learn as I go. Having had one trailer before it is a great help to this build. Correcting my wrongs!!

I removed the avatar of the box kite and put in one of a painting found at the new San Luis Obispo Government building. We get monarchs there so many that it looks like a tree was made of them.


Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I am ready to glue on the front skin, I am about to cut the trolley boards, need to get 2 4x8 pc's of wood for walls, am beginning to think out wiring. I keep testing pc's to make sure they will work. When I get front skin on I will be able to tell it the roof skin length is correct. and prepare to cut it for where the trolley will drop down into the cabin. I want to cut out the door on one of the outside skins but realize I must wait for the front skin so I now how they will mate.
I want to find a set of LED lights for road operation brake lights etc. but I may just put in the wires and get individual lights for each function.

I am slowed down a little do family health issues. But then working on this helps me relax and get my mind off it.

Time to go back reread the last 10 pages and figure what I have forgotten to do or what I said. Plus look at all my drawings.
I just keep working away at it soon all the pc's will become one.
Ron

[Ron Dickey]

cut the length for the trolley tops and drew out where it will be notched for the cross bars. The thickness is a little tough. The front is simple it will be the thickness of the roof, beam, & ceiling (only the bean is installed now) the rear however I can cut the same but I will also need to alot for the hatch hinge. which will ride on top of the back beam.

here is Doug H's hinge his trolley top ended before this point. So I do not think he had to add this to his cut.


I could get around this at $19.95 a foot from So-Cal Teardrops. said to be leak proof and I can attach it on the side bars too.
Click on the bottom where it says "Watch the hinge in action." showing a video.
https://www.socalteardrops.com/parts.php?cid=2&pid=31

there have been several posts on the subject So-Cal teardrops belongs to the forum but has not logged in sense 2011. I have seen there trailers and am very impressed with them.

Ron

[Junkboy999]

It might be well worth buying one foot of the hinge for a test. Make a full scale duplicate area where you hinge will be out of some of your scraps. It is all way better to know in advance if it will work out or not. Making a mock up of the area will also allow you to see if the cleat running from side to side is the proper shape to mount the hinge. I read a few build a build logs where people got there hinges later and had to add to, cut off, or grove out the cleat to install the hinge.

I’m slowly gathering aluminum pieces so I can mock up one side of my camper this winter.

[Ron Dickey]

I wrote them to see if they can send me a sample they are not far from my cousin who lives in Riverside,ca I may ask him to drop by and see if he can get a 1/2 foot.

I put the side down on the ground and placed the Trolley board above it then brought the board down to where it would be resting on the cross beams and figured our where I made the radios for the galley door and was able to mach the curve for the rear of the trolley top. The front is a little less then a 45 degree angle, so I will have less wind resistance.

I have not down loaded the pictures yet. I plan to cut the trolley out later today. I have a few unexpected days at home, I was going up north but family does not want me to waste the gas. So maybe I can play catchup and take the wife to dinner, for less then the gas would have cost.

I should get the front curve skin put on then the roof can get cut to fit the trolley. I might get the missing walls at the HD too.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

To day I mostly rested. I have now cut the trolley tops into shape but where the cross bar studs go I should have measured twice I was off a little. so I have some correction to do there. Tomorrow I plan to connect the outside skin on the bow most of the way the last corner I will not, I may have to add a pc of wood.
Once the front curve is in I can slide the roof on and figure where to cut it for the Trolley top to fit inside. This will include the area where the fan will go as well.

I need not put both sides of the trolley side by side so I can sand them to equal shapes.
cut out the windows in the trolley top and set in the windows

I have a dilemma coming up.
a. After the Trolley walls have been cut and shaped
b. I will need to cut the cross bars that will attach to the sides of the trolley between the front and rear cross bars. drill holes in the trolley side for screws to be attached in to the ends of those studs. Then removed the screws and bars.
The ends of the trolley will rest on the roof at the ends carrying most of it's weight.
Before the trolley is put in place, I will need to.
1. The roof (cut in the middle for the trolley to drop in) must be put down first. The roof will be resting on the front and back cross bars at first.
2. Now the trolley rests on top of the roof and the same cross bars.
3. That done now I will need to place the cut cross bars
3a. these bars must go under the roof with the ends resting on the side of the trolley top wall and be glued and attached with screws though the previously drilled holes.

I will try and add pictures later to better explain.
Ron

[Ron Dickey]

I have now cut the trolley top shape and sanded them to match and attached one side of the outside skin for the Cross Bow arch. I will soon put the roof back up and draw out where to cut the trolley hole.
I also realize I should design inside support bars for the trolley on top. This will no only reinforce the sides but better secure the top of the trolley roof to the trailer.

-------------------------------------------- Think Twice before using any tool, Think not only if the tool will do what you want but also about safty.................

I realized that when you are working with a air gun make sure you know what is behind it. Nothing happened but when I missed the nail would fly somewhere off. If I had anyone stand behind they could have been hurt. But know one was. I showed my neighbor my Trolley top and told him of the flying nails and he said once he was building a house and held the back side of the wood with his hand. And got a huge surprise.

So when you are building your trailer don't only measure twice and cut once
But also think twice about safty, about yourself and those who are around you. People and Pets alike.

I have had no problems so far but I remember at the IRG one woman came with a missing end of a finger. She cut it on a miter saw getting ready for the IRG.
Think Twice before you do anything with any machine

[KCStudly]

Good advice.

Don't forget that shot nails can also follow the grain of the wood or be deflected by knots, etc. and curl out the side of the wood, so don't hold the wood in your hand anywhere close to where you are nailing. If there is nowhere to hold use a clamp or screw.