Citylights' Tear - SOLD! - update 08-01-16

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Citylights' Tear - SOLD! - update 08-01-16

Postby citylights » Mon May 20, 2013 11:23 pm

Starting my build, have a few questions.

Edited... Going with a 10 foot benroy. Going to have a 10 inch drop storage in the front under the bed for extra storage.

Here is the trailer. Going to cut the cage down to the deck.

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Last edited by citylights on Mon Aug 01, 2016 1:06 pm, edited 14 times in total.
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby nevadatear » Tue May 21, 2013 2:12 am

Desertmoose has done exactly that. You may want to check out his build.
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby les45 » Tue May 21, 2013 9:37 am

Depends on what the basement will be used for. If it is just for stowing gear, you could stow inside the cabin and make your teardrop shorter and more compact. I put all my tables, easyup, chairs, etc. inside the cabin while towing and keep it outdoors when camped. By packing forward it also adds to my tongue weight and stabilizes the ride. With that extra height, you could also consider foregoing the basement and build a small standy. How will you access the basement and how easy will it be to get stuff out? Before cutting off the top rails, you might want to check with the trailer manufacturer to see if that upper rail system is part of the overall strength of the trailer frame. Just some food for thought....................
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby KCStudly » Tue May 21, 2013 10:25 am

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your build!

I think you may want to study and do a test mock up of that arrangement before committing to anything.

First couple of things that strike me are that a queen size bed is 80 inches long and you have only allowed for 72, not counting the thickness of the walls.

The door sill will be very high (nearly 3 ft by the looks of your drawing) and you may have a hard time getting in and out.

48 minus 16 leaves only 32 inches of headroom not accounting for the thickness of the subfloor, floor and ceiling/roof. Seems a bit short for an average size person to sit up in.

The basement idea is a good one, if you have lots of gear that you want to store, but if you don't remove the metal side grates how are you going to get to it? That's an awful lot of stuff to have to drag from under the mattress.

Some suggestions (my opinion):
Get rid of the metal rail and grating on the trailer. So long as you build a good rigid box and attach it well to the main trailer frame, it is not needed and will only get in the way, collect dirt and moisture, and be extra weight to carry around.

Think about your joinery; how are the walls going to attach to the subfloor, floor, ceiling and roof (that will give you a better idea about how much interior space is truly available and will also give you an idea of how many sheets of ply you will need... I'm betting that you will end up taller than 48 inches).

Figure out what stuff you need to bring, measure the big stuff and see how much room you really need. If the basement is only needed as a way to get up above the railings, then just get rid of the railings.

An option to the basement is to build a storage compartment between the galley and cabin that is accessible thru doors from either side. There is a build here somewhere like this, but alas, I can not remember the name. It was well done and I thought it was a great idea, so long as you don't mind going a little longer on the profile.

Hope you find these suggestions helpful, as they are intended. :thumbsup:
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Tue May 21, 2013 10:50 am

Wow, thanks for turning me on to desertmoose's build. That basement is what I want! Also other great ideas there too. It looks like everything above the deck has to go. Here is the link to his build pictures.

http://s4.photobucket.com/user/desertmoose4/library/teardrop?sort=2&page=1
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Tue May 21, 2013 11:22 pm

Kcstudley, thanks for the suggestions...

....a queen size bed is 80 inches long and you have only allowed for 72, not counting the thickness of the walls...

Great catch! I am going to extend my tear to 10 feet long. The tear will overhang the trailer by one foot front and back. That will pick up the space needed for the queen bed and some small inside cabinets in the front. I will post an updated sketch.

....The door sill will be very high (nearly 3 ft by the looks of your drawing) and you may have a hard time getting in and out...

Understood. I plan on a step for each door.

...48 minus 16 leaves only 32 inches of headroom not accounting for the thickness of the subfloor, floor and ceiling/roof. Seems a bit short for an average size person to sit up in....

I think you misunderstood. I plan on four foot tear over an 18 inch basement. That gives me 12 inch vertical storage space with 3 inch top and bottom for floor and roof.

...if you have lots of gear that you want to store, but if you don't remove the metal side grates how are you going to get to it?....

Storage for 12x12 folding awning, folding chairs, table, spare tire, a couple cast iron Dutch ovens, volcano, and a few other odds and ends. I will get into it from under the kitchen. Also the doors will extend over the basement at the sides providing access.

... Get rid of the metal rail and grating on the trailer. So long as you build a good rigid box and attach it well to the main trailer frame, it is not needed and will only get in the way, collect dirt and moisture, and be extra weight to carry around....

Cut it down. I agree. Also agree about the tear replacing the trailer strength.

....Think about your joinery; how are the walls going to attach to the subfloor, floor, ceiling and roof...

That will take some thought. I am thinking 18 inch box with standard tear on top. Box will be 1/2 inch ply top and bottom with 3/4 inch sides with 1 x 1/2 inch spars at 12 inch on center top and bottom. I can inset the top 3/4 inch on each side to attach the tear walls to box top and spars. I plan to screw and glue everything.

....Figure out what stuff you need to bring, measure the big stuff and see how much room you really need. If the basement is only needed as a way to get up above the railings, then just get rid of the railings....

Very similar storage to desertmoose's design. I will cut the railings down.

...An option to the basement is to build a storage compartment between the galley and cabin that is accessible thru doors from either side. There is a build here somewhere like this, but alas, I can not remember the name. It was well done and I thought it was a great idea, so long as you don't mind going a little longer on the profile....

I think I want these items permanently stored in the tear. Add cloths, food, hook up and go! Also minimal setup required when I arrive. Things in the basement can be taken out and set up as an option.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will be cutting off the upper basket and expanded metal this weekend.
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Cut the trailer down today

Postby citylights » Fri May 24, 2013 6:15 pm

It's pretty bendy now. Going to need to stiffen it up with the teardrop structure.

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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Sun May 26, 2013 8:23 pm

How many times did your design change in the process? Hmmm... Not keen on the basement concept now. Looking at a standard 10 foot tear with a roof rack for the extra storage. Any recommendations for a profile?
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby KCStudly » Sun May 26, 2013 8:42 pm

citylights wrote:How many times did your design change in the process?


In the design stage? Hundreds, if not thousands; the beauty of CAD.

After starting to build? Only hundreds of times.

However, once I had committed to the foamie hybrid method and my current profile, that was locked in and won't change. Now it's just all of the little details that weren't worked out in the second CAD design (the first was a similar profile, yet more traditional build). In fact I live in constant fear that anything I change or design now may be in conflict or out of sequence to what I have planned before; the paint your self into a corner scenario.

Don't rush it. The more you plan out in the beginning, the easier things will fall together in the end, and the less backtracking you will have to do to make changes. The whole design has to work within itself and suit your intended needs, so spend the time up front on design work.

Don't be afraid to stop and think every once in a while. There is no deadline important enough to compromise several years worth of planning and building. (They tell me that the 2nd one is easier and goes quicker. :thinking: )

I spent over a year studying the forum and deciding if I even wanted to take on a build. Then I spent at least a year designing before I ever posted. There are easier and faster ways to build. The Weekender design comes to mind, and I considered that at first, but then I'm "in for a penny, in for a pound" crazy. :FNP
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Sat Jun 01, 2013 2:48 pm

Plywood arrived. 6 sheets of 3/4 thk. I guess I am not going for a lightweight build and I have switched to a 10 foot benroy.

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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby iregan » Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:48 am

Hey there,
I think if I was putting a basement in like you wanted, I would put a trap door set up with a footwell in it so you could sit comfortably inside with a table. I would save that expanded metal grating too cause a box for wet shoes etc within arms reach of inside the door would be handy, maybe integrated with the step? I think your idea had lots of potential, but then thats probably why I can't seem to make up my mind on the direction I go in :)
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:46 pm

iregan wrote:Hey there,
I think if I was putting a basement in like you wanted, I would put a trap door set up with a footwell in it so you could sit comfortably inside with a table. I would save that expanded metal grating too cause a box for wet shoes etc within arms reach of inside the door would be handy, maybe integrated with the step? I think your idea had lots of potential, but then thats probably why I can't seem to make up my mind on the direction I go in :)
Regan


I dropped the basement idea because I think it adds too much height. It was close, but I don't think I would have been able to get it into my garage.

I am going with a 10 foot Benroy now. I do have a 10-inch drop put in it for a storage compartment under the bed. I will look at, if I can also use that as a dinet or sitting area. I was thinking more spare tire and emergency kit storage.

I kept a lot of the angle iron and expanded metal that I cut off the trailer. I will find some use for it. I am thinking some of the angle iron might be used to reinforce or "armor" the foot well.
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:34 pm

Progress.

Deck mostly built

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Dethroned tear! (Had to take it off for sealing with paint. I am going to use black truck bed spray on liner.)

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One more shot before I put it away for the night.

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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Fri Jun 07, 2013 7:34 pm

More progress.

Working on changing out my trailer tongue. Making it 2 feet longer to accommodate a 10 foot teardrop on an 8 foot trailer bed. I think my tongue weight just got 18 lb heavier by going from 1/8 inch steel to 3/16ths.

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Also got the underside of the tear painted and sealed. Painted it with truck bed liner, then used industrial outdoor caulking for the joints.

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I am thinking if I skin the tear in aluminum, I may install a couple aluminum panels across the bottom to seal it even more. We will see what that does to the cost.
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Re: Citylights' Tear

Postby citylights » Sat Jun 08, 2013 10:09 pm

Back on the trailer, deck finished, under deck storage finished.

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Going to work on the side panels next.
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