Woody 5X10

[oakinteriors1]

Ok I have enough started to begin a post on my first camper trailer...http://s147.photobucket.com/user/scrawf ... t=3&page=1

Yep it is more involved than designing a kitchen layout which I have been doing as a self employed cabinet maker for decades... And a bit more different than building your own kayaks of which I've built about 15 boats...

One thing you got to buy a lot of things ahead of time before you can start....

It is not going to be a museum show piece.. I see so much of that on the kayak-canoe forums when they put so much time in a boat that is going to get nicked and scratched if they use it at all anyway.....
Not going to load it up with a lot of 3/4'' hardwood face frames, doors and drawers....I want light weight....

Baltic Birch is an awesome plywood.....here is a17' 6'' kayak I built using 1/8''...

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And western red cedar is going to be used for cabinets, trim, etc...

I did a post on the drop floor...
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=57589
And a different idea to install an AC unit..
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=57706&start=15

And

[Ron Dickey]

Nice job on the fenders looks like you have a real feel for plywood and what it will do.

Ron

[oakinteriors1]

The tight radius on the fender was traced around a gallon paint can....
I have gotten strips of this 1/8'' Baltic Birch to bend tighter with the aid of a heat gun...

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[oakinteriors1]

More progress this weekend....

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[oakinteriors1]

The lumber used for the framing is silver leaf maple...from the 500 board foot I purchased for a cabinet job I just finished...I just separated out the lightweight ones.....

Got this job installed last week now plenty of room and time to work on the trailer...

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This is a pocket hole boring machine I built over 20 years ago for making face frames...

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[oakinteriors1]

The outer skin on the sides is 1/4'' Baltic birch the inner skin is 1/8''..The galley hatch and roof skin construction will be similar to Steve Frederick's style....

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A hatch- side wall mock-up...

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Doors framed in and ready for the flush RV style handles...Need to frame in for the windows I intend on making...

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[oakinteriors1]

Wile adding foam to the walls I noticed all you had to do was press firmly on the area that has to be trimmed off and it leave an imprint on the backside (with the plastic on)...

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No reason to use scribing pencil jigs.. Just press the foam down and cut around the impression...

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[oakinteriors1]

Working on Wiley Windows...I wanted to be able to raise the window a little with it still pressed against the outer wall...A wood pc. attached to the top of the plexi with a dowel pin that fits into a hole in the door skin will keep it from sliding back down..

The sill is angled 30 deg. and ought to allow the window to be raised an inch and a half and keep rain out..

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[oakinteriors1]

The headboard..... Using 1/8'' Baltic Birch Plywood for the face ,dividers,and shelves all the framing is 3/4X3/4 poplar..
It weighs 15lbs...about 5' wide and 4' tall...Now for cedar doors....




The center portion will be for hanging clothes

[KCStudly]

That looks nice.

[oakinteriors1]

I really got some work done today.....



The AC will duct up through

Looking down into the intake and exhaust






The return duct is on the bottom

[razorback]

When I saw your canoe at Crawford I knew this would be a quality build.
Larry

[KCStudly]

You may need to have the return be lower down on the wall to get some separation between the supply and return... help prevent short cutting the recirculation... or do you plan on having directional registers on the inside of the cabin (supply aiming up and return down) to help the airflow circulate throughout the cabin?

[oakinteriors1]

The return air is on the back bottom of the cabinet the other goes up the back and exits out the top front of the cabinet..

[oakinteriors1]

Cabinet face frame partially cut out on the table saw..1/8'' Baltic birch..


This cabinet weighed 15 lbs also..like the headboard


Looking down from the top the Air cond. duct in back


Looking from underneath the return air duct..