As I promised, here are the results of my successful hatch-lift-assist install, using one off-center mounted gas spring, rated at 150 lbs force. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=61432&start=15#p1101237 Thanks for your encouragement and help!working on it wrote:Thank you for the detailed descriptions of "how to do it". Really good methodology, IMO. I'll be interested to see how it works on my quite different hatch design, in allowing for the limited mounting space and the extreme opening angle. I had already formulated a scheme (with scale modelling, triangulation), and bought two gas springs last night online. I'm committed to that as a plan of action, for good or bad. When I have them on hand, and using the "adjustable" curved brackets I also bought (allowing for some variations in measurements and materials), then I'll see if my method comes close as yours surely will. I will "exhaustingly" report my results. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your work, it'll be used by many builders, I'm sure.
noseoil wrote:Worked on a couple of things. Put another coat of urethane on the wall panels. My son's old cat decided to stroll across the top of one of the panels this morning after I had finished. Nothing a little sanding & re-application won't fix. The cat's 19 now, so as senile as he is I guess it's ok.... He probably doesn't remember doing it anyway by now.
Also, while the cat was staying busy on the porch adding his finishing touch to the wall, I did some basic wiring for the tongue box & a conduit run to the back end. Here's the junction box set inside the tongue box for the 7 pin connector harness. The black left side cable is the "in" side from the truck, the gray conduit on the right feeds the back with a #8 hot, back-up lights, electric brakes & 4-wire loom for running lights. The loose wire is a ground which attaches to the tongue box with a 1/4" bolt. Fitting this much wire into those connectors was a bit challenging. [/img]
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