Benroy Woody

[Midget]

The holidays have passed and it's time to get back on the teardrop. We picked up our fenders and interior trim rings for the doors from the powder coater this week. The doors are the manufactured style and we didn't like that the interior trim rings were raw aluminum color and the doors are black. We like having the black against the wood. The fenders are also black.

Yesterday we installed the curb side wall. All the cabinets are screwed into the wall and the temporary supports are removed. It's really looking like a teardrop. We installed the cross members tying the walls together and the cabin feels really tight. The wiring for the 120v, 12v and solar panel runs through the roof to the front and will end up in the tongue box where the electrical system will be. The solar cables end up running under the trailer in pipes as the controller and battery are under the galley counter.

Here's the galley so far.


Here's one with the street side now installed.


We started drilling the wood trim for screws and will be working on it through the weekend. The pieces will be glued and screwed and then the screw holes will be plugged with pine plugs before we varnish the sides. Need to do a little more shopping as we are low on varnish and need to start thinking about the aluminum for the top and the trim pieces.

Bob

[KCStudly]

She's going to be a beauty!

[Midget]

More work accomplished. We finished some trim pieces during the last varnishing session and had the opportunity to install them. The leading edge of the interior shelf and the bottom of the cabinets. Since the roof is not on it made it easy to install the interior cabinet doors. These have hidden hinges and lift upwards. The interior cabinet is one big unit with three doors. We'll probably use plastic tubs to keep things organized.


We also installed all the side trim. This was done with small Kreig screws in countersunk holes. We didn't want the screws coming through to the interior so measurements were crucial. We also glued the trim on. I made plugs out of clear pine with a plug cutter and these were glued in last night. I used a drill press for the holes in the trim and the plugs. I just got it a month ago. It's one of those tools I've never had but needed for years. Finally broke down and got one. It's a life saver!


Next up is to sand the plugs smooth and then restain the trim pieces. The plugs stand out a little too much so the stain should blend them in better. Then it's another huge varnishing job to get the sides sealed.

Bob

[S. Heisley]

It's looking terrific, Bob!

[Midget]

This is the slow part of the build. Waiting for the varnish to dry. Today we put a second coat on the trim pieces, headliner pieces and the sides of the trailer. We have to be careful on the sides so we don't get runs.

On days we watch the varnish dry I have been working on the electrical in the tongue box. I'll have the shore power connect there into a Progressive Dynamics charger / fuse box. There's also a 1000W inverter and a switch to select between shore power and the inverter. It's fun figuring out the PD unit as the wiring diagram is not complete. I'll have to add a junction block for all the 12v grounds as it looks like there is nothing there for it.

Bob

[noseoil]

Bob, I ran a ground strip behind the PD4045 & put all of the grounds to it. Handy to have it close to the power box for work. Here's a picture, just a store-bought type from the home center store near us, might have been $7, but get the bigger size. All those wires seem to multiply with time & more stuff keesp getting added if you think & build over time....

[Midget]

That's just what I was thinking. There's a little spot inside where I can mount one for all the grounds. Thanks for the photo.

[Midget]

Major progress again. We finished with the varnish on the ceiling panels and got them installed yesterday.



I was able to re run all the wiring through the spars so we're ready to insulate and attach the luan. All the wiring will run through the front panel down low and go into the tongue box. I'm still looking for some way to make the connection. I was thinking a threaded pipe which I could put a piece of rubber or something over that would squish down when the tongue box is drawn up to it. I have about 1/2 inch of space.

I was able to test all the 12v wiring. Next is the 120v and then we're ready to seal it up. I don't want to seal it up and then find the wiring doesn't work.

Bob

[KCStudly]

I am using Sealtite style water tight flexible electrical conduit to make the connection between the front of my cabin (my front cabinet "locker bump out") to my TB. There are a variety of different connectors that are compatible with PVC pipe thread fittings. I used a female threaded Sch 80 PVC union half (pressed into the floor of my locker with paintable caulk) as a bulkhead fitting.

You can read about the details here: http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=1081749#p1081749 .

[Midget]

KC,

Thanks for the info and the link. I used the same flexible pieces when I re routed the electrical to go underneath the Midget. I haven't seen any leaks using these parts. I haven't been to the big box store yet and the local Ace Hardware doesn't have enough variety. I'll need to see what they have available. My electrical will come out of the front wall and jump straight across a 1/2 inch gap into the tongue box. I was thinking a threaded PVC pipe of about 2 inches could work with thin electrical box nuts to draw up tight. Maybe a closed cell rubber gasket that will crush against the box and the wall to seal the gap. The pipe will have to be about 1" to 1 1/2" inside diameter as it needs to route the 12v, 120v and two 4 gauge solar cables.

Bob

[KCStudly]

Are you trying to describe a slip joint with gasket or a rigid connection? I would avoid any rigid connection, especially if it is higher up on the TB. It might work out okay, but I wouldn't consider it a good practice.

I am mounting my TB on rubber isolation mounts (it's a long story) so I wanted to make sure there was some flex in the conduit. Our cabins are rigid and trailer frame tongues can flex a little bit, so it is better to have an offset in you conduit that allows for some give and take. By having a 90 deg fitting on the bottom of both units and aiming them at a slight angle to each other (with the flex conduit following a slightly curved path, or even a slight S-shape), the system will be able to absorb any relative motion that is to be expected. Also, any flex at the base of the front wall will translate into more relative motion near the top of the TB further away from the mounting points, so it is best to place the "bridge" close to the relative pivot point.

A straight short rigid connection up between the front wall and back of the TB might "work" on itself always going from tension to compression with no chance to flex; which over time could "bust' (or degrade) whatever seal or fastening method you use.

Even with the flex conduit it is better to have a slight bend or S-shape offset to avoid a straight push or pull scenario.

I know I tend to engineer the heck out of things. I figure if I can make something better just by considering the possible outcomes and using well published techniques that don't really take anymore or less effort than any other, then why not try to incorporate good design practices? In the end it might not matter in your scenario, but it is something to consider.

I'll just add that I have years of routed systems design and industrial maintenance experience. I've seen how even the little insignificant things can cause more than a little failure when done poorly. Not that your craftsmanship is in question... not at all, it's just that you'd be surprised how small details can make the difference between a long trouble free service life or not. Just saying.

[Midget]

We took a trip with the Midget the last few days so didn't get any work done on the woody. At least it gave me a chance to let the varnish dry on the sides so I can block sand it before the next coat. I worked on the hatch this afternoon.

The hatch will be open on the inside to expose the mahogany structure and the birch liner. We are using two LED lights which I plan to run the wires through hidden channels in the structure which will be covered by the birch and then the aluminum skin.

[Midget]

Here's another post.

This past week we spent the weekend at Buttonwillow Raceway Park watching the cars race. We then drove up the coast and spent some time at the beach camping before getting to All Rite Industries in Hollister. We picked up 3 sticks of edge molding for the woody. How do you get 16 foot lengths home? Here's how we did it.

A length of PVC pipe screwed into 2x4's that are set into the bed stake holes. Offsetting the pipe allowed us to run the trim through the mirror. Sorry honey but you can't open your door the whole way home.

[Midget]

Been working on the trailer and was able to make some good progress. Put down some fiberglass insulation in the roof and front wall and then skinned the roof with 1/8th inch plywood. The insulation was stuff I had left over from the breadloaf trailer build. We picked up some .040 aluminum from a tractor trailer repair place. It's used for the tops of semi trailers. We're not picky about the finish as it will be painted. Here's a shot of the aluminum skin on. In the front is the diamond plate with etching primer and the wiring pigtail sticking out. This pigtail will go straight into the back of the tongue box.


The wheel wells are coated with undercoating and we have hopefully one more coat of varnish for the sides.

The hatch is coming along. The structure is made from mahogany and will be skinned on the top with birch stained just like the rest of the trailer. The structure will be exposed on the underside. These will be varnished and then skinned with aluminum on the outside. Everything seems to be plodding along. Once the varnishing is done, we'll have a lot to do on the final sprint to the finish.

Bob

[Midget]

Things have slowed down. We are finishing up the last of the varnishing. Underside of galley lid and a few trim pieces for the inside. Everything else is covered so there isn't much more to do until a few more coats are dry. Then it's a sprint to finish it up.