The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" a 5x10 Benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Mon May 02, 2016 11:09 pm

Got both walls up. Temporary gussets and temporary roof sports are holding it in place as the PL adhesive dries.

Ran into an issue. The passenger side wall bottom was not straight. It had a sizable curve to it bowing up in the middle. Of course I noticed after I had applied the PL adhesive and stapled the side ply into the floor. Douh. Screwing down didn't bringing it in much (the walls don't flex in that direction, i guess there is something to the "I beam" analogy) so I unscrewed all the pocket hole screws, then injected as much PL Premium as I could get into the gap. Then I sunk in the pocket hole screws and it cinched down a just a bit, some adhesive good out all along the joint, so at least I have that...

Silly mistake that made for a less strong joint and a bunch of corrections. Now I am letting it set for the full 24 hour cure time before I touch it. Maybe even linger seeing how much adhesive I gooed in there.

It should all come out okay, I caught it with some time to make adjustments, but I wish I would have dry-fit so that I would have caught it, and fixed it, before I attached the wall...

Oh well, she looks like the start of a tear and aught to be plenty strong once I get the ceikinf/roof installed and she us all braced up .

Starting to look like a teardrop!
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Re: as of yet unnammed 5x10 Benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Mon May 02, 2016 11:20 pm

Made some progress on the bulkhead today. Decided to fully insulate it. I figure MO reason to skimp now. Plus I hate cold feet.

I choose to not run wire inside the bulkhead. I will just run chase in the cabinets for my roof wiring and hatch wiring. Adding the wired to the floor was a bit if a pita. I will do it for the roof, but no need to go to the trouble where it isn't necessary.

. I did add a spar 18 inches up (not pictured) to allow me to screw the counter in on both side walls and at the bulkhead for added strength.
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Re: as of yet unnammed 5x10 Benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Sun May 08, 2016 11:17 pm

As another update. I tested using PL premium bonding the foam inside the wall instead of the fastbond. Partly because failure is an option as long as the wood glue holds at the framing. Partly because I won't have enough fastbond to finish. And partly because I was too lazy to wait around to let the contact cement phase dry today. I clamped with excessive weight because the PL needs clamping. Over 550 lbs on a 4x5ft area.

Also routed the excess ply off the bottom edges of the sides. When I epoxy the walks I will wrap the epoxy around to the bottom here making a water tight seal. This is a photo from rear to front along the bottom side joint. The wood on the left is a temp brace holding the cabin up while I do the routing of the excess.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Sun May 15, 2016 12:07 pm

Stef and I finally figured out the name. We will be naming her the "SJ Cruiser". Named in honor of our late daughters Stella and Jemma. They are always close to us but now whenever we are out surrounded by nature, we will have something tangible to remind of of them.

And now I am even more determined to make a quality trailer that will be worthy of my daughters. The pressure is on! :-)
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Mon May 16, 2016 8:42 am

Bulkhead wall is cured, i then used the router to trim off the excess ply on both sides. Next I dry fit it in place. Needed to trim down one side, I accidentally pulled the frame 1/8 inch out of plumb when I added the cross spar that the counter top will screw into. That board was slightly warped and when I pulled it up a bit to make it level i must have tweaked the rest of the frame. Nothing a little trimming won't fit. Used my trusty oak board as a guide. This thing has gotten it's use! I've used it as a strong back when gluing, as an actually straight, straight edge, a guide, it will likely end up making the framing for hinge joint for the galley.

I haven't done a lot of woodworking and i can see myself improving on each piece I make. At first when asked how long to cut a board it would be.
"58 inches";
"okay, 58, take or leave the line?";
"uh, the line, 58 ON the line?"
now I am making boards the right size and my frame members and ply are within a 16 nd of an inch of square across 5 ft.

I'm glad I am improving, because I am fast approaching the finish work. And i know I will be needing some small quarter round at most panel joints, but I would like to have better fit and finish on the cabinets.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Mon May 16, 2016 8:50 am

So I am ready to start the roof and also on building the galley. I will have a slide out for the cooler and for my Coleman stove, but im not yet sure if I want to orient them inwards, or to the rear. My original plan was to have them on either outside edge oriented inwards, taking up less "frontage" on the galley, giving me room to access more and creating an L with the stove, a U with both the stove and cooler out.

Now that I am physically positioning items. I think that having the stove and cooler facing to the rear will make them individually and the galley as a whole more functional. Both would still slide out, but with the stove facing the rear, it opens up the remaining counter space to be used by a second person. And the cooler would be able to be accessed without getting in the way if the guy (or gal) on the stove.

The space behind the cooler if I turn it to face back is bigger than I would have liked (especially since I could use an extra 5-6 inches for the bed+ front cabinet) but I can make it useful with battery and wiring, and eventually a water tank.

Thoughts? I know there is a galley gallery, but does anybody regret the way they went? Would have done the galley differently?

Happy building, John
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby KCStudly » Mon May 16, 2016 12:39 pm

Your work is looking good.

On the galley, I purposely decided to only screw in my shelf and counter face frames, and all of the shelf ledgers. Some say that this might allow them to rattle apart going down the road, but I didn't want to commit to my galley arrangement just yet and wanted to leave the option to reconfigure it in the future (within the limits of where I put wall blocking). So I can sort of have a redo if I decide I don't like what I started with.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Thu Jun 02, 2016 12:32 pm

quite a while since my last post, I've made some progress but as always, not as much as I would like.

I attached the roof foam using the last of my 3m Fastbond. the walls are really solid now, and that is with still needing to install the roof ply. the sandwich construction/ structural insulated panels/stressed skin method produces great results, even if it is a bit slower and requires significant prior planning(like a lot). The cab is so far as light and strong as I could have hoped. knowing how strong it is, I probably could have gone lighter on framing. the foam really keeps the heat in. working in the cab causes the cab to get 5+ degrees warmer than the rest of the garage.

I also have the galley counter mocked up. I will glue and kreg screw the 1/2 birch ply counter into the walls and buckhead, I have spars at the correct height to screw into (some of the prior planning I actually did right) the cooler will slide out as shown and the colman stove will slide out on a drawer on the left. this arangemetns leaves about a foot behind the cooler before the bulkhead that I plan to put the battery and who knows what else. I could have moved the bulkhead back 6 inches and hade a plenty large galley and saved myself room in the cab, but I didn't put spars anywhere else in the walls to screw into (an example of some prior planning that I didn't do right)

All this means that I have more space in the galley thatn i need and less space in the cab that I would like. not the end of the world but it highlights the unforgiving nature of changing plans with this construction method. if doing foam walls with minimal framing, do the planning all the way to counters, cabinets, ext... ensure the framing is exactly where you will want it, you cant add any more after you build the wall.
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we have an insulated roof!
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galley mocked up
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Thu Jun 02, 2016 12:54 pm

not teardrop related, but kinda fun.

one of my habits is espresso. living in Italy for over a year makes me a bit of a coffee snob. so for my wedding a few of my army buddies chipped in and got me a home espresso machine. it has worked great for 18 months and then the pump stopped working. over a gallon of vinegar didn't clear a block so I figured its toast, lets tear it apart and and see if I can clean/fix it.

NOPE! this thing is complicated! there are more snakes than Sam Jackson faced on that plane.

as far as I can tell there are at least two heat vessels, two pumps, one pressure relief valve, a half dozen sensors and 3 control boards. half of these things are integrated or otherwise positioned so that I would have to disconnect hoses, or cut sodered wires in order to just see the rest of the components.

after 30 mins of using my new $5 tri-lobe screwdriver (to keep people from openining it up I imagin) I gave up and junked it.


sad day.. back to plebian drip coffee for me until my next wedding.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:12 pm

with the foam installed, time to wire the two interior lights, two exterior lights, and ceiling fan.

the wire was a drama. first I ran some 18gauge doorbell wire, then found out that solid core wire is not ideal due to the brittleness in moving applications and at crimps. so then I went to the home center and spend 30 min staring at their woeful wire selection, great for building a house, not so much for a trailer... after $45 for 2 30ft strands of 10 gauge and 1 100 foot strand of 18 gauge I was back home. then I realized that the 18 gauge wire was bare, no sheathing. I'm not sure what one does with 100 feet of naked copper wire. but as I'm not making a faraday cage I cannot use it... after wasting most of the afternoon I rummage through my supplies and see that I have 10 feet of 4-way trailer wire, 16-18 gauge. so I split that into two 2-way runs of 10 and wire my lights into the ceiling. and used the remainder to run two circuts up from the galley (one for lights, the second dedicated to the fan. both will be wired to a 5 amp fuse. okay, crimp, clamp, cover and ready to glue on the exterior roof ply.

I carved out an area next to the fantastic as the joint location, it is accessible if there is an issue. (not easily but it is accessible) also, that is exactly where the wire needs to come to access the fantastic.

I've come to realize that as simple as wiring is, people often try to overcomplicate it. the first plan was to run 10 gauge wire up to the fan, then branch off with the 18 for the lights. of course I would have needed 8-10 amps for all of the devices on that circuit, but 18 gauge is marginal for 10 amps. so that's a bad idea. much better to run two separate circuits, each at less than 5 amps, and then both are safe on 18 gauge wire. it isn't the best case scenario that you are trying to fuse to protect against, it is the worst case, a short in an 18 gauge branch wire needs to be able to be protected by a fuse for 18 gauge, not a fuse for 10 gauge.

once I get a second set of hands for 30 min, I will attach the roof!
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crimped and heat shrunk
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4 lights run to once area
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wire run through foam
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:25 pm

lack of good prior planning # 107: I didn't include bracing in the walls for the galley hatch spar, or for the gas struts that will hold that weight.

the 1/8 ply on foam does not provide bite to screw into. Although it is strong enough to take the force, it cannot on its own be attached to with a few screws. what to do?

enter the glued on mounting plate! one on each side cut to the profile will provide a place to screw into the spar at the hatch, giving extra holding force. and by exteneding back it gives me a place to plant 3 screws for the gas strut mount. the mounting plate is glued along the entire face to the ply, spreading the load enough so that the 1/8 ply and foam will carry the weight without tearing out. and for good measure, I glued and screwed into framing in the bulkhead. this isn't going anywhere.

now to decide if I start the galley hatch 12 inches from the bulkhead wall or less? I never really decided this because I wanted to see it in person. 12 gives me a full size 12 inch cabinet for plates and pots and such. but it will be at eye level. also the roofing sheathing will only reach 10 inches back based on where I have spars in the roof. so I would need to cut into my last piece of 1/8 inch birch in order to have the sheathing make it all the way to the hatch spar and therefore lend its strength to that most vulnerable location.

that is the last update for now, I am at a decision point. tonight when I get home I will make the hatch spar by laminating two pieces of 1x.75 oak together to make a 1x1.5 spar. once that is cured (Friday) I will be ready to attach and finish the cabin construction. then I can epoxy the whole kit and caboodle. for that I have decide to fiberglass tape the seams and the exposed foam at the doors, hatch hole, and galley edge. so I also need to get some tape at a marine supply store this weekend.
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kreg screwed, glued, and clamped
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support with length markings
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support for hatch spar and gas struts
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Mon Jun 27, 2016 2:27 pm

It has been slow going on the trailer this month. we moved across town so packing, cleaning, moving, cleaning, unpacking, cleaning, selling, dump running, more unpacking, moving, and unpacking has kept me busy. oh, and we had 18 family members in town last weekend because my daughter turned 1.

We are nearly clear of the old house, and have the necessities unpacked at the new one.

bad news is that it stopped work on the trailer. good news is that I had to move the trailer so she got mounted (temporarily) to drive across town. ugly news is that I didn't take any photos while she was all hooked up.

It pained me, but I drilled a hole in each corner to mount the cabin to the trailer frame. I was holding off on this because I wanted to wait until she was loaded to properly balance. i ended up moving the cabin forward (effectively moving the wheels back) quite a bit farther than I expected. even then, the tongue was only around 50 lbs with the 220 lbs of mock galley loaded up. then i installed the doors and the weight shot up to about 100lbs on the tongue. much better. makes me think that i will be able to move the cabin back a few inches (pretty sure i had to go so far forward that i missed the front framing inside the floor). we will see once i am closer to completion and get a chance to recheck the balance.

I will update some more in a bit and show photos of the front wall/roof curve ply install (at least i got photos of that)

busy week ahead, unpacking, unpacking, handing over keys to old house, unpacking, unpacking, loading Subaru into borrowed car trailer, driving borrowed truck and trailer across the state to Spokane to spend 4th of july with parents, driving Subaru back home, and then i imagine more unpacking. after that, i build the hinge point on the roof, finish the roof ply install and start on the galley hatch.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Tue Jul 26, 2016 10:22 am

it's been a while, but I am starting back up on the trailer again. I built back to the hinge spar for the galley. ripped a 3/4 oak board down to 1x and attached it to a 2x2 select pine that was also ripped down. this gave me over 2 inches of width on my rear spar plus the benefit of oak for screw holding power. this was glued down to the ply that was glued and stapled to the galley gussets and then the spar was clamped and stapled to the ply. my air stapler could not force my 1" staples into the oak, so the staples are only in the pin, but I used my growing clamp collection to clamp down the oak side of my "manufactured" spar.

after all that was done I remembered that I wanted to use the pocket jig to screw up into the spar from the gusset. well, that was a failure. the pocket jig could not give me the correct measurements that I needed for proper hole placement after everything was assembled... I tried anyways to get "close enough" and I'm pretty sure I ended up past the wood into the foam with the screw head as all four screws felt stripped. oh well, I reinforced with a screw from the top and called it good with the glue. chalking that one up to lessons learned for next time. measure twice, cut once. it applies to everything with woodworking, not just cutting. dryfit everything and then measure, then take it apart and glue, don't get impatient...

after that dried overnight I cut out the excess gorilla glue (that stuff really expands!) and gorilla'd in the foam from the bulkhead back to the hinge spar.

that is when I discovered that I was exactly 60 inches from the center spar on the trailer (where I stopped the roof ply previously) to the front edge of the galley spar. well, my ply is 60 inches long... oops, I somehow managed to extend my hinge spar back a half inch farther than I wanted... I am out of plywood so I need to go pick up some more 1/8 ply so that I can cut two smaller pieces with the joint over the bulkhead in order to extend the roof from spar to spar and get the strength I need at the rear hinge point. nobody within 30 min carries 5x5 but the local lumber yard carries door skin 3x7 and 4x8. either one will work as I need a piece 14 &1/2 inches by 60 inches. as an added bonus, the 3x7 will fit in the Subaru. no need to get the cargo trailer for a single sheet of ply!

I hope to get that ply tonight and cut it down so that I can finish the roof before this weekend. then i either Epoxy or build the galley hatch... hm.... how much longer can i put that off??

oh, and the wife gave me a date, we are camping Labor day, so i need to get it campable by then. no large inside cabinets, no fancy pull out cooler or pull out stove, no 110v and no sideing. i need to get the hatch on and sealed, the shell waterproof (epoxy plus aluminum on the roof if there is time) the galley counter built, build at least the lower front shelf/cabinet so we don't smack our heads on the two supports that are installed there, install the fantastic fan, and get the 12v system in place. in that order. i figure we can camp without 12v if needed.
oh, and i need to "build" the foam mattress. i have 3 inch memory foam topper that i will glue down to a firm foam base, think the 3 inch firm foam camping rolls.

the rest of it can be a winter project. these things are never really done right?


photos to follow once I get them resized for the forum.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Tue Jul 26, 2016 4:55 pm

Hey, I figured out the photos! below are photos from the above post. I will try to get some more going soon.


143718
another view of the ply and spar. I stapled into a 3/8 wood gusset along the wall and used Gorilla glue and TBII where appropriate to glue to the wood and foam. the GG really foams up. you can see here the "manufactured" spar I made with oak and pine.

143717
after TBII / gorilla Glueing the ply to the notch and the side walls (TBII on the gusset, and GG on the foam for a little extra) I used TBII to glue the beam, then I stapled into the pine from below (oak was too hard as I am limited to 100psi) and then clamped. I also screwed down into the wood gusset

143716
1x3/4 oak "laminated" with 1 x 1 3/4 pine to create my rear hatch spar. Used parchment paper to control TBII drips and keep the spar from getting glued to my frame.

143715
a close up. the notch is TLAR 1/8 inch. I cut it with two overlapping passes of the tablesaw. the outside 2 inches on each side are a bit wide, but the majority of the middle is a nice tight fit for the 1/8 ply.

143714
added a notched board at the top of the bulkhead to accept the lower ceiling ply and also to mount the upper ply. both the notch and top area cut at a 13 degree angle to accommodate the sloping roofline.
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Re: The "SJ Cruiser" , a 5x10 benroy in the PNW

Postby yrock87 » Wed Jul 27, 2016 1:30 pm

when I moved across town, I temporarily, strapped the tear down to the frame. no grate profile shots, but here you can see it on the frame.

143723


143722
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