Benroy for my baby

[S. Heisley]

[clamlamp]

Tested out the tongue box to see if it will hit at full radius turn and it seems good. I'm sure Jack knifing will hit but I'm not planning on reversing into tight spacers or at all if possible.

I got Brave and decided to start on my PMF. I follow the guide from another Forum Builder ghcoe or George, and used his technique on applying canvas. He had a genius method of using a round tube to hang the canvas over the side and do small sections at a time. I diluted the glue to a 50/50 mix and started by brushing on to the wood and then rolling the canvas down and using the roller to roll a thicker amount on the canvas. He mentioned in his build Journal that he did not pre shrink or iron the canvas because once it shrink it would tighten up and eliminate wrinkles so I'm giving it a try. He also stated that you need at least 12 in extra around the edges so just to be safe I bought a 9 by 12 for each side from The Big Box store. Sorry I didn't take many photos along the way it was because I was trying to rush. He also mentioned not to do any overlapping until each canvas is dry so I guess it will be one day at a time.


*Update*

I had to add another layer of glue mix because I notice spots where it wasn't binding. The paint roller helps a lot to push out air bubbles. I just jumped on the pc version of tnttt.com and I can't see my photos but the app version I can see everything.... strange..




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[Staryder61]

TV and Benroy make a good pair... sure hope the short tongue works out for you..
I'd end up backing up and cutting to sharp and hit the tongue box..

The tongue box looks good with the profile of the Benroy..
You're getting it PMF'd Big step,, WAY TO GO....

Keep it going ,,, David

[clamlamp]

TV and Benroy make a good pair... sure hope the short tongue works out for you..
I'd end up backing up and cutting to sharp and hit the tongue box..

The tongue box looks good with the profile of the Benroy..
You're getting it PMF'd Big step,, WAY TO GO....

Keep it going ,,, David

Thanks David!


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[clamlamp]

Cut it the excess canvas but noticed this morning I have wrinkles, anyone know how to get this out? I read people iron but will it work after glue is dried?

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[clamlamp]

Cut and glued the trim area with a sharp razor and full strength tbii. Long and tedious process but took my time so I didn't mess up too much. The second side I did turned out much better, no bubbles and minor wrinkles. At first I didn't want to have texture of canvas and was trying to think of a way to smooth it all out but it's growing on me.

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[Staryder61]

Cut and glued the trim area with a sharp razor and full strength tbii. Long and tedious process but took my time so I didn't mess up too much. The second side I did turned out much better, no bubbles and minor wrinkles. At first I didn't want to have texture of canvas and was trying to think of a way to smooth it all out but it's growing on me.

It's all looking good clam,,
Different ones I've seen on the forum, using PMF, have texture.. after painting they look great..
Depending on the paint used and the application used,, The paint will produce some texture of it's own..
You are taking your time applying the canvas,, which will help with the final look...
It's going to look great when you are finished...
and last a long time... David

[KTM_Guy]

Just caught up on your build. Looking great so far.

[clamlamp]

Cut and glued the trim area with a sharp razor and full strength tbii. Long and tedious process but took my time so I didn't mess up too much. The second side I did turned out much better, no bubbles and minor wrinkles. At first I didn't want to have texture of canvas and was trying to think of a way to smooth it all out but it's growing on me.

It's all looking good clam,,
Different ones I've seen on the forum, using PMF, have texture.. after painting they look great..
Depending on the paint used and the application used,, The paint will produce some texture of it's own..
You are taking your time applying the canvas,, which will help with the final look...
It's going to look great when you are finished...
and last a long time... David

Thanks David, I can't remember what you said about your skin. Did you decide what you were going to do?

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[willrothfuss]

Enjoying your build. Thinking of doing a canvas skin myself, so it is nice to see a well built trailer with one. Can't wait to see it finished. Can I ask you for a couple of sources? First, the long fixed windows? Love those. And the canvas- source and weight and weave, or whatever they have on it. I wonder if anyone has spackled/filled the canvas before painting? I guess that would change the whole look- not really canvas anymore.

PS: Do you have a name, or are you happy if we call you "Clam"?

Will

[clamlamp]

Enjoying your build. Thinking of doing a canvas skin myself, so it is nice to see a well built trailer with one. Can't wait to see it finished. Can I ask you for a couple of sources? First, the long fixed windows? Love those. And the canvas- source and weight and weave, or whatever they have on it. I wonder if anyone has spackled/filled the canvas before painting? I guess that would change the whole look- not really canvas anymore.

PS: Do you have a name, or are you happy if we call you "Clam"?

Will

Hi Will!,
Thanks for joining me on this journey and your compliments! The windows I got from Vintage Technologies, make sure you ask for the correct inside trim wall thickness of your build. I didn't know so I have to drill holes into the window trim and screw them in. If you want to do what I'm doing with the windows and screwing them in, Ebay has some trimless ones for cheap, not sure about the quality though and there is more of an inherent risk of leaking with screws.

The canvas I got from Home Depot, it's the regular drop cloth canvas. I figured I didn't need the heavy duty stuff since I'm laying it over plywood. I have heard from others that once you paint and sand in between coats the canvas texture goes away but it takes like 3-4 coats. I was considering doing a spackle as well to smooth out some wrinkles but I'm not sure if that would affects the paint or primer adhesion? If anyone has any experience with that I would love to hear if it's possible or the long term effects of spackling over canvas.

I follow a guy on instagram "vurvdesign" who helped convince me to do PMF because initially I was planning to skin with aluminum. He is from B.C Canada and built his 4 years ago and has stored it outside and said it has held up fantastically. Also when I asked him if he were to build another would he still do PMF over other options and he said yes because of the cost and ease vs fiberglass and epoxy and the limitless color schemes from paint vs aluminum skins. Also if you search poor mans fiberglass in youtube, a women L Wms, built her teardrop using PMF and it looks great. The color design and when I asked her the same questions she said it has held up perfectly over 2 years and would do the same thing again if she were to build another.

Link to vervdesign: His rain channels showed me PMF can be done with a Steve Federick Hatch for which I haven't come across another build journal that has incorporated it together.
https://www.instagram.com/vurvdesign/?hl=en

This is the link to L Wms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us8o8eNV9To&t=203s

Hahaaha I don't mind being call Clam or Lamp but my name is Paul and you are welcome to call me that as well. Pleasure meeting you!

[willrothfuss]

Wow, thanks for those two great links! Two really clever and creative builders there. Totally committed to PMF now. Looks like you don't have to trim the top edge either, although I am contemplating a paint top and woody sides. I could roll canvas over the top edge I would think, seal the canvas and wood sides really well, and then just add wood trim along the top of the sides- it would be decorative, really. I also like his simple door and window, though I would want a working window. I don't like the ubiquitous lozenge shaped black door everyone uses. I wish there were more door and window options available. What is a Steve Fredrick hatch, btw?

[clamlamp]

Wow, thanks for those two great links! Two really clever and creative builders there. Totally committed to PMF now. Looks like you don't have to trim the top edge either, although I am contemplating a paint top and woody sides. I could roll canvas over the top edge I would think, seal the canvas and wood sides really well, and then just add wood trim along the top of the sides- it would be decorative, really. I also like his simple door and window, though I would want a working window. I don't like the ubiquitous lozenge shaped black door everyone uses. I wish there were more door and window options available. What is a Steve Fredrick hatch, btw?

I thought about what you exactly said for mine but I know that I probably don't have the due diligence of refinishing every year or two so I decided against it but I'm sure there are many people with Woody's that can attest to the ease of having all wood or even partial wood.

Yeah the standard doors are standard in all facets but if you make your own doors, the locks, hinges, weather seal, drip edge, RV window, and door trim will still be up there in price. Not as much as two factory doors but I'm guessing about 150ish per door? Well most of the cost will be the RV window. You can do the old school style of making your own window and opening and closing them with wedges but then you don't have a screen.

Steve Frederick hatch:
http://www.campingclassics.com/diner7.html

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[Staryder61]

Thanks David, I can't remember what you said about your skin. Did you decide what you were going to do?

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Clam,, We're still sticking with the woody skin for the sides..

Though, we have went back and forth on what to use on the top of it.. Maintenance on the wood being what it is over the years.. Thinking more of doing PMF on the top section and hatch, and then using a dark red Monstaliner on the top and fenders..

Specially after reading the following build pages by kayakdlk:

Re: Colorado Teardrop Build Journal (Build Complete) (kayakd
Postby kayakdlk » Sun Sep 20, 2015 7:04 pm

Tony the epoxy and fiberglass cloth with a Monstaliner paint job was one of my best decisions. No issues. I power wash it at the car wash when I am done from a trip. It worked so well I gave up on adding diamond plate that I had planned. No need, I have even been known to drop by a car wash when on a long trip. Lots of dust and road grime get picked up which in turn as you brush up against it gets inside the teardrop. When I was in Montana several sections of road was being redone and it was just dirt, so before getting to the campground I was looking for car wash to rise off. The kids were sleeping in the truck topper with a topper tent and all of the dirt accumulate at the rear, same with teardrop. I can get by without a rinse off as no dust gets inside the galley but for a 3 week trip a couple times through the car wash to rinse didn't hurt.

I have noticed that on the side I cook more grime sticks, but that would be with any surface. After the power wash I use a degreaser cleaner to get rid of some of the black grime that seems to stick and occasionally I wax the Monstaliner with a car wax to keep it UV protected. If I ever build another one I will use the same fiberglass cloth, epoxy and Monstaliner for the outside

Dan
My Build Journal - viewtopic.php?f=50&t=57065
My Gallery - gallery/search.php?user_id=15968
Image

I'm hoping the Monstaliner will work good over PMF too,, guess we'll give it a try and see what the out come is.. and give a review of it on here for others.. David

[clamlamp]

Have been working on the top canvas. This time I took the time to iron before gluing and it has considerably less wrinkles. I weighed down the rear and wrapped up the front in into a roll like the sides and did a small section at a time. After a day I cut the trim of using a scrap piece to protect the sides. The big issue I had is the trim on the radius. Having to figure how to glue it without wrinkles... I'll let you know what I figure out..

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