Budget College Student Build

...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....

Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Wed Feb 03, 2021 5:45 pm

saywhatthat wrote:why 2 '' you may want to look in to better foam and go 1 '' more inter room


As of right now many of the foamie builds that I've been following use the 2" and seem to have decent strength for what they are, haven't seen many with the 1" that weren't supported predominantly by a framed structure. I'm not really concerned about the inside space so long as I'm able to fit lol.

Any 1" builds in particular that I could reference? Always open to new ideas as I haven't purchased those materials yet and 1" of foam is cheaper for sure.


TimC wrote:I'm anxious to see how this teardrop build goes. You are getting some great advice so keep up the posts on design and you will save yourself some grief.

Tim


Thanks Tim, hope to update with some real life pictures soon!
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby TimC » Wed Feb 03, 2021 9:56 pm

mattiker wrote:Any 1" builds in particular that I could reference? Always open to new ideas as I haven't purchased those materials yet and 1" of foam is cheaper for sure.


My son and I are building a foamie with 2" walls and 1.5" roof. The roof also has one ply of 1/8 lauan for the ceiling. I'm amazed by how rigid the roof became after the curve was added. After doing that work I don't think I would go with less than 1.5" on a roof.

A partial build journal in my signature if you want to look at it. Roof and hatch work primarily on pg three.
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My First Benroy Teardrop Build Thread - A 5x8 Woodie - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63575
My Second Teardrop (partial) Build Thread - Started August '16 - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=66939
#3 My son's Benroy Foamie team build - Started July '20 - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=72877

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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby MickinOz » Thu Feb 04, 2021 2:32 am

Suggest you revisit your axle position/weight distribution.
As you have it drawn, the axle is exactly centred under the teardrop body with all the storage behind the axle.
You need a little more weight in front of the axle than you have behind it, for the sake of stability while under way.

Of course, if you have left the axle in the original Harbor Freight position, and the position on the drawing isn't what you will end up with, its all cool.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Thu Feb 04, 2021 5:47 pm

MickinOz wrote:Suggest you revisit your axle position/weight distribution.
As you have it drawn, the axle is exactly centred under the teardrop body with all the storage behind the axle.
You need a little more weight in front of the axle than you have behind it, for the sake of stability while under way.

Of course, if you have left the axle in the original Harbor Freight position, and the position on the drawing isn't what you will end up with, its all cool.



I believe that my trailer axle should be in the original position, but I'll be sure to measure it's location once I have it all rust free and back together.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby txcamper » Fri Feb 05, 2021 2:46 pm

mattiker wrote:
MickinOz wrote:Suggest you revisit your axle position/weight distribution.
As you have it drawn, the axle is exactly centred under the teardrop body with all the storage behind the axle.
You need a little more weight in front of the axle than you have behind it, for the sake of stability while under way.

Of course, if you have left the axle in the original Harbor Freight position, and the position on the drawing isn't what you will end up with, its all cool.



I believe that my trailer axle should be in the original position, but I'll be sure to measure it's location once I have it all rust free and back together.



I had the same concerns/situation with my 4x8 harbor freight with the axle in the original position. For me, I had minimal weight in the rear galley and I used the front triangle of the trailer to store two deep cycle batteries so it actually worked out, if you will not have the forward weight it is MUCH easier to move that axle back now.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Tue Feb 09, 2021 10:32 pm

Just a minor update of no real significance. I've been pondering what to do for my electrical situation. Eventually I'll go a simple solar setup, just enough to give my phone a charge and run a small fan hopefully.

The much more likely scenario is that I'll be nearby some sort of electrical connection. As such, I started looking through the electrical section and discovered that many people will just run an extension cord through a wall, which would suit my needs just fine. The question is then how to get a cord through the wall without getting yourself wet. Sure, there are $20 sockets that fit, but what's the fun in that? I have access to a 3d printer and had a few hours to procrastinate tonight, so I mocked up a quick socket hole that could also be sized up for other needs where you want a secure and waterproof access point. Will fiddle with this some more but thought yall might be interested.
Last edited by mattiker on Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby Pmullen503 » Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:42 am

Nice.

A couple of suggestions. The cap should be easier to grab. It could be wet or dirty or frozen and you shouldn't need a wrench to turn it. Think more along the lines of a gas cap on a car.

The parts that are embedded in the foam need some fins to increase the area in contact with the foam. The key to working with foam is to spread the forces over as large an area as possible.

You wouldn't want the embedded parts the spin if the cap was hard to get off.
Last edited by Pmullen503 on Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby TimC » Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:00 am

I'm impressed with folks that do 3D printing. The sky is the limit. +1 on pmullen's suggestions.

Here's what I am using on my son's teardrop. It doesn't come with a cover, but the one I installed on my TD has a flexible plastic one and it is crap. Always open when I arrive somewhere. You could fashion a really nice cover for something like this. You just plug a standard outdoor extension cord into it and wire the inside to a receptacle.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/light-switches-dimmers-outlets/electrical-outlets/legrand-reg-15-amp-125-volt-flanged-inlet/5278ssbk/p-1444451139746-c-9526.htm?tid=2559705245360388084&ipos=1

Also, you could probably start a cottage industry by producing custom 3D parts for the teardrop world. I occasionally buy parts from a guy on ebay that has done just that (thecrazyham). Though he is doing it for the radio fanatics. He is in Minnesota.

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Niagara, WI
My First Benroy Teardrop Build Thread - A 5x8 Woodie - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=63575
My Second Teardrop (partial) Build Thread - Started August '16 - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=66939
#3 My son's Benroy Foamie team build - Started July '20 - http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=72877

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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:42 pm

Pmullen503 wrote:Nice.

A couple of suggestions. The cap should be easier to grab. It could be wet or dirty or frozen and you shouldn't need a wrench to turn it. Think more along the lines of a gas cap on a car.

The parts that are embedded in the foam need some fins to increase the area in contact with the foam. The key to working with foam is to spread the forces over as large an area as possible.

You wouldn't want the embedded parts the spin if the cap was hard to get off.


Excellent points, the gas as a model is a good idea. Parallel surfaces tend to be a bit stronger due to the nature of 3d printers in my experience, so I changed it a bit. My instinct is that you are correct as far as surface area goes, but I imagine that there is some sort of ideal surface area for splines if being hammered into foam without it just becoming mush. A simple square would be easier for most printers but splines do interest me. I also added a little hole in the cap so a thread can be put through it similar to some gas caps. For the two main pieces I'll probably add some glue to hold them in place to prevent spinning, or I might work up some tiny pins, although those will likely be after the printing process.


TimC wrote:I'm impressed with folks that do 3D printing. The sky is the limit. +1 on pmullen's suggestions.


Yep, that's essentially what I'm going for. Once I get the shell hammered out I'll add a simple face plate in the center for a plug to mount to. I don't know if people would want to buy the stuff I print but I appreciate the thought :thumbsup:
Last edited by mattiker on Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby tony.latham » Wed Feb 10, 2021 8:08 pm

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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Wed Feb 10, 2021 10:13 pm

tony.latham wrote:I do a bit of 3D design and printing but you might consider something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1E-6-Foot-Integrated-Extension/dp/B07TJJQP1S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V05LY9GY1D61&dchild=1&keywords=noco+power+inlet&qid=1613009022&s=hi&sprefix=noco+%2Ctools%2C231&sr=1-4

:thinking:

Tony


The only issue I see arising with many of the online options (that one included) is the screw design, as most are meant to go into a surface that is a bit more steadfast than foam. Realistically they're probably fine, but if I have the opportunity to overbuild something I'm going to take it lol. Seeing that did give me an idea though, as it would be pretty cheap to use 1/4 in hex bolts to squish the inside and outside faces together, which would also prevent it from turning when the cap is moved due to the bolts acting as anchors.
Last edited by mattiker on Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby tony.latham » Wed Feb 10, 2021 10:16 pm

is the screw design, as most are meant to go into a surface that is a bit more steadfast than foam.


Isn't it the same issue with foamie doors? Don' they have to be framed with wood? Couldn't you just inlet a piece of 3/4" plywood into the wall that this would fit into?

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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Wed Feb 10, 2021 10:33 pm

tony.latham wrote:
is the screw design, as most are meant to go into a surface that is a bit more steadfast than foam.


Isn't it the same issue with foamie doors? Don' they have to be framed with wood? Couldn't you just inlet a piece of 3/4" plywood into the wall that this would fit into?

Tony


That's an interesting point that I hadn't considered. I haven't planned out my doors yet, but honestly I don't see why this gasket system wouldn't work, although somewhat impractical I would think. I am currently planning on framing mine in, but I guess this is something worth looking into. Might be an option for someone who is trying to go for ultra weight savings.

As for the plywood that's an option as well, and a good backup if this doesn't work out, would just skip out on the 'inside' piece of the most recent design and use wood screws instead of hex bolts.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Sun Feb 14, 2021 4:00 pm

Here's what I think is my final plan. I plan to eventually use the sloped surface on the back to mount a single 100 watt panel for a solar system. Until then extension cord porthole will suffice. I've also corrected the position of the wheels I've also flipped the door to be on the passenger side, so if I have to pull over I won't have to fight traffic to enter the trailer.
Last edited by mattiker on Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Budget College Student Build

Postby mattiker » Sun Mar 07, 2021 11:14 am

Minor Design update: Raised the back edge up slightly and am adding some more internal storage. Decided that I'll have the bed on top of a platform so that there can be some underbed storage as well for clothes etc. As perviously mentioned I found a used window for a good price, which happens to be large enough to function as an emergency exit if need be. Debated going with a canopy style hatch for the galley but I think the slide out kitchen will grant me a little bit more waterproofing.
Last edited by mattiker on Sat Sep 03, 2022 12:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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