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Canned Hams of all types and sizes...and Bread Boxes to go with that ham......

Postby rebapuck » Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:55 pm

Is aluminum considered "canned'?

German 1975 Eriba Puck
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Postby Gage » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:25 am

The Puck is not considered to be a 'Can'd Ham' but an egg. Just the way it is, sorry. :thinking:
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Postby cuyeda » Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:19 am

I thought to be an egg, the body would have to be entirely form molded. The Eriba Puck has a steel tube frame.
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RE: Eriba Puck

Postby mezmo » Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:21 am

I'd consider it more of a Breadloaf, due to the larger radiused roof and walls
joining or transition.

Maybe we should call it a Mini-Breadloaf ?!

[I thought of suggesting to call it a "Roll", but decided that to be too
much of a stretch for a pun.]

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Postby Gage » Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:17 am

cuyeda wrote:I thought to be an egg, the body would have to be entirely form molded. The Eriba Puck has a steel tube frame.
Well I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time and most likely won't the last. :o
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Postby High Desert » Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:29 am

maybe the Puck could be called a biscuit? :thinking:

OK, a couple of questions;

1- on the average 1000 to 1500 lb canned ham, how much clearance do you think is needed between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender well when road ready to prevent the tire from making contact when travelling?

2- what do you all think the average entry door width is on these style of trailers and is it sufficient?

Thanks 8)
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Postby droid_ca » Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:37 pm

all thiis talk about canned hams eggs bread loafs twinkis and any others I may of forgotten sure is making me hungry :D
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Postby cuyeda » Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:14 pm

High Desert wrote:1- on the average 1000 to 1500 lb canned ham, how much clearance do you think is needed between the top of the tire and the inside of the fender well when road ready to prevent the tire from making contact when travelling?

2- what do you all think the average entry door width is on these style of trailers and is it sufficient?

Thanks 8)


1. Depends on the specs of your suspension. Is it leaf spring, or torsion? There should be a manufacturer rating at a specified weight. It should also depend on your tire size. My clearance is 6.5" from top of tire to top of wheel well, leaf springs.

2. My door opening is 21.5". Depends on your preference if you are building. Do you want more or less dinette or closet/cabinet space? Style of door hinges will also be a factor. If adding accessories ie. icebox/fridge, you should make your plans accordingly.

This is my non-technical opinion. Others will chime in.
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Postby angib » Sat Jan 08, 2011 7:22 am

1. For their torsion axles, Dexter specifiy 3" of bump clearance above the tire when it's loaded (so, not when off the ground). I don't thnk any trailer leaf spring axles need any more than that - the clearance between the axle and the frame often isn't any greater.

2. Like cuyeda said, it's a case of whether you want easy entry or interior space more. Doors below 24" are really tight but in a small trailer that may be an acceptable trade-off. Commercial trailer doors are 24-26" wide, going up to 30-32" for real luxury. These widths are for a 'walk-in' door - widths for a teardrop 'sit-and-swing-legs-in' door are different.
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Postby doug hodder » Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:18 pm

Shaun...I've got the 3" required on the wheel to tub clearance and a 21.25" door width including the inner flange for the screen on the Nomad. I'm not "dainty" but it works for me with no major problems. I can't walk in carrying a cooler full width but it hasn't been a big issue, just need to remember that it's not all that wide. I do have to watch raking my head on the upper portion of the door however....gotta remember to duck! Doug
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