Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Im using 3/4 ply. for inside and outside wall. My question is what would you do about inside door stops and ext trim on door. also what kind of seal would you use? Any help appreciated, Thanks

Hi,

I used Oak 1 x 3 as the interior door stop.
The door is made of the same wall material (5/8 plywood) so is flush when closed.



It was/is very simple to add the strip of wood so that a portion projects into the doorway, which prevents the door from swinging in.




This shows how it looks from the inside.


I used a medium density closed cell foam weatherstrip, glued to the framing, you can just csee it in this shot, it is a light brown color.
When the door is closed and latched, it compresses enough to keep all water out.



I have two strips of horizontal trim on the door. It is for looks, not strength, but I can't say if it helps or not.
In 6 years the door has not warped or twisted.



Rob

I love your tear, Rob. Very very nice. Especially like the raised bed.

I really like your rig also.

I have had the priviledge of seeing Robs Cabin Car up close in person, and all I can say is that pictures in no way do it justice. It is nothing short of stunning when you see it in person.

Tom

Becky, Tom, and Dano,

Thank you for your nice compliments.

The raised bed is a feature few "teardrops" offer.
The Cabin Car design is a true teardrop, but is really stretching the envelope...
Nonetheless, it is a fantastic way to go "camping"
(I don't need the headroom, but to be able to sit up and put your feet on the floor, that is nice!)

It will be very hard to let it go once I finish my next trailer...

Rob

"Let it go?" Can you have too many trailers? Perhaps you should have a trailer for short trips, one for long trips, one for when you go by yourself, one for when you have company, etc...

Rob, my door is 65 inches tall, do you know where I can buy a heavy duty piano hinge? One other ?, do you think I can get by with int. trim only on the door with a good weatherseal? Thanks Dennis

Joe,

I wish I could keep everything I've made or owned, but I couldn't afford the insurance, let alone the storage building and the upkeep...
Nice as it is, the next one will be even better, built with enough love and passion, the pain of selling the old one will soon fade...



Dennis,

I bought stainless steel piano hinge online.
Some I think from E bay, and the rest from Austin Hardware.
65 inches is a pretty long piece.
Quality 13 ply will go a long way toward stability, though just as important is sealing all sides evenly.
That is, if you apply 4 coats of whatever on the outside, you should also have 4 coats, not 3 or 5 on the inside.
The edges aren't as critical, and in fact I'd give them several extra coats as end grain will absorb more material.

With all those thoughts, If I had a door that tall and wasn't using multiple latch points, I'd put some sort of stiffener on it, either inside or out.
The full length piano hinge will take care of the hinge side, and the latch will take care of the center on the other, so the stiffener should be placed vertically near the latch, stopping just short of the top and bottom of the door
As the 3/4" door, against the interior stop will require spacing out to latch, running a 1 x 2, or 3 just inside where it will clear the stop board, will provide you with a spacer and stiffener that looks like it belongs.

If that doesn't make sense, look at this picture and study the door latch.


The latch is attached to a small block of wood, acting as a spacer.
Instead of using a block, use a full length board installed vertically next to the interior stop, with a 1/4" or so space between.

Rob