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Flex line for propane stove.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:02 pm
by dh
I'm putting my propane stove on a slide out and need a flex line to allow it pull out. Which would be better suited, a rubber hose, or a flexable gas line like they use on gas appliances?

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:42 pm
by Ford Truck Man
I'm interested in hearing everyone's ideas on this as well, not to be a thread hog or anything, I am working on the design stage of this in my build as well!

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:02 pm
by bobhenry
Must be the week for it !

I to, am planning on having the gas line ran on the chuck wagon. I am going to use a standard stainless gas line at the stove but since the stove is in the rear and the bottle is out front I will connect the bottle via a short section of hose with regulator incorporated in it, to a 1/2 black pipe ran to the rear.

I think in the case of constant flexing ( in and out on a slide ) I would lean real heavily towards a good grade of hose designed for propane applications.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:27 pm
by rbeemer
If you are putting the stove on a slide out I would recommend using rubber hose for inside the trailer. If I understand what you are referring to the metal flexible hose that is used on appliances is not that flexible, you can bend it but it usually holds all the bends.

You could probably use the metal for outside the trailer but that would be expensive.

Just my thoughts

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:40 pm
by GeoDrop
Check this thread. My TD has a slide out drawer with a small 5lb propane tank underneath. I found a 24" hose that was the perfect length at my local farm-n-home.

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... highlight=

Photo's about half way down in the thread.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:28 pm
by GeoDrop
I guess my setup is different.. your bottle is separate from the sliding drawer. I would consider finding a stainless steel braided hose. I couldn't find one w/o regulator.. but sure you could.. or just remove the regulator if you didn't need it.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:30 pm
by boomboomtulum
Back in the day we had a Tent Trailer, it had a stove inside that one could remove and take outside and cook. There were gas conections at each location. The stove had a 3-4 ft rubber hose with a quick conector. At the stove was a short piece of stainless tubing so the rubber would not be close to the bottom of the stove and then the rubber hose to the conector. Im sure it was reinforced hose but was very flexable and never did I have problems with cracking, leaks, pinching etc.

Dave

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:31 pm
by madjack
...rubber hose rated for propane...any flex type metal hose will break from being constantly flexed in the situation you are describing, they are not designed or rated for such..............
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:08 pm
by Dale M.
madjack wrote:...rubber hose rated for propane...any flex type metal hose will break from being constantly flexed in the situation you are describing, they are not designed or rated for such..............
madjack 8)


Ditto....

http://www.protanksupply.com/low-pressu ... -hoses.asp

Dale

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:36 pm
by Larry C
You want an LPG rubber hose. However, You should be aware that almost all rubber Propane hoses are pin pricked to allow the gas that DOES get through the tube to dissipate to the atmosphere.
I suggest you install the hose in a well ventilated area so the gas that permeates through the hose will not accumulate in a confined area such as your closed hatch or cabin.

Larry C

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:48 pm
by Larry C
Also, You should look for a hose that meets DOT specs for propane. When you carry propane on public highways the standards are regulated by federal and state DOT. I think the standard you need is UL21 This hose is rated at 350PSI Max Working Pressure even though it will probably never see that. It also has a 5to1 safety factor.
You don't want the hoses used on gas grills.

Larry C.

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:51 pm
by 48Rob
I purchased custom made hose from a hydraulic, etc, shop that makes custom high pressure propane hoses for fork lifts.

It cost me $30 or maybe it was $40 for two pieces of hose for my stove and water heater, but peace of mind was well worth it.

It is very flexible, allowing me to move the stove a couple feet for easy cleaning, and very strong so I don't have to worry about a leak.
I think it had wire mesh in the rubber as reinforcement and was rated at a couple thousand psi.

Rob

PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:09 pm
by slowcowboy
I used regular hydolic hose from a tractor. I is in the pop up camper format.

and never gets flexed with the drawer being pulled out to my stove.

I have a pop up camper lp hatch on the side of my teardrop and I simply pull it out the wall from under my galley counterrop though my teardrops wall.

I then string it around to my galley under belly storage drawer kitchen and plug it by a quick concertor made for lp gas to my connection in my storage drawer that is plumbed by copper to my stove.

hose never gets flexed to having to pull the drawer out. only to pull it out the gas hatch on the side of the teardrops wall.

when not used it is stored inside the teardrop in the floor of my galley cabnet.

the quick connector is much like a air compersor one but is made espeically for lp gas.

totaly diffrent fitting even though its a look alike.

I have a blade ball valve that shuts the gas off to my green coleman bottle and regulator

and I have already tested the hydrolic hose and can find no leaks.

it has flexible metal conectors on the ends that provide more flexebilty to the end connections.

rated for like 1000 pounds tractor hydrolics put out a lot of pressure.

slow.

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 12:48 am
by eamarquardt
48Rob wrote:I purchased custom made hose from a hydraulic, etc, shop that makes custom high pressure propane hoses for fork lifts.

It cost me $30 or maybe it was $40 for two pieces of hose for my stove and water heater, but peace of mind was well worth it.

It is very flexible, allowing me to move the stove a couple feet for easy cleaning, and very strong so I don't have to worry about a leak.
I think it had wire mesh in the rubber as reinforcement and was rated at a couple thousand psi.

Rob


I think this is the way to go. Get "industrial strength" for not much more than "home use" quality.

Cheers,

Gus

PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:26 am
by Larry C
For the sake of safety.........


Slow...
I know you have past experience with propane, but Please.....
do not use hydraulic hose for Propane!! Remember all propane hoses have pin pricked covers to allow the gas to escape through the cover. USE ONLY IN WELL VENTILATED AREA!!! Gasses leak through most hoses except those with a barrier (i.e. natural gas and refrigerants)

If you use Hydraulic hose which has a Nitrile tube the propane will leak through the tube and become trapped under the non pin pricked cover. This will create little bubbles of gas under the cover.

Rob.........
If you have a hose rated at a couple thousand PSI, I doubt it's for Propane. Get me the specs from the layline on the hose and I will tell you what you have. The layline also has the date of manufacture.

The hose used on forklifts are rated at 350PSI Working Pressure (5x1 safety factor) as are most all Propane hoses. The forklift hose has a stainless steel braid to add extra strength if the hose catches on something and for longevity from the weather.

It would be a great choice for a Teardrop. However, It will, as designed, allow the Propane to seep through the cover, so it must only be used outdoors in a well ventilated area. (UL21) Don't use Propane hose in a confined area!!!!

FYI: I run a hose shop and have been building, specing, testing, and selling hose for 40+ years. I am BCHD certified hose specialist. Our shop builds and hydro static tests/certifies thousands of Propane per year. We hydro test ALL Propane hoses to RMA specs of 2 times the WP (700PSI) for 10 minutes.

Larry C