Propane distribution system plumbing

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Propane distribution system plumbing

Postby GuitarPhotog » Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:18 pm

I'm planning to build a central propane distribution system into the teardrop this winter. I have looked at propane sites and RV sites but don't clearly understand the terminology.

Here's what I want to do:
1. put my 20 lb (5 gal) barbeque tank on the tongue. Connected to the hard piping with a standard fitting.

2. put three propane quick-disconnects on a manifold under the rear of the trailer with a valve for each QD. I can source the manifold and valve parts, just need QD source.

3. make hoses for my propane appliances with QD on the trailer end and the same fitting as 1 lb green propane cans on the other.

I need recommendations for high pressure propane hose, quick disconnects, appliance fittings (i.e., same as 1 lb cans), and an appropriate fitting for the tank end.

As for safety, the tank will be out in the open on the tongue, so no leakage accumulation issues, there will be no propane in lines when towing, and the valves on the QD manifold will shut off any unused QDs.

Thanks

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Postby eamarquardt » Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:40 pm

These folks are pretty reasonably priced: http://www.dan-marcrvparts.com/gashoses.html

I got some quick disconnects from them.

Cheers,

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Postby Kharn » Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:44 pm

If I were putting the QDs under the trailer, I would build a hinged enclosure that covers them and prevent road grime, dirt, etc from accumulating and gumming up the works.
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Postby eamarquardt » Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:57 pm

Kharn wrote:If I were putting the QDs under the trailer, I would build a hinged enclosure that covers them and prevent road grime, dirt, etc from accumulating and gumming up the works.


Agreed. Dirt and the like will take a quick toll on the disconnects.

Cheers,

Gus
The opinions in this post are my own. My comments are directed to those that might like an alternative approach to those already espoused.There is the right way,the wrong way,the USMC way, your way, my way, and the highway.
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:58 pm

Having a valve per quick disconnect seems a bit redundant. A properly sealing QR does it all and it is one less set of joints to leak. BTW check for leaks!
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Postby Dale M. » Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:37 pm

Some things to consider.... Some devices run at full tank pressure (125 psi at 70° f.) and some devices have to have regulators that drop pressure to 15 -20 psi (camp stoves), and some devices run at standard "household" pressure of 11 to 13 inches water ( about 1/3 psi) (propane fridge and cook tops) ... You will have to know what devices you are going to use and what pressures need to supply to each device.... Interesting concepts, just be aware...

The MR HEATER website used to have a really good booklet on how to connect things for camping ( if its not online- contact them via e-mail), plus the have full line of hoses and fittings....

http://www.mrheater.com/

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=43858

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Postby GuitarPhotog » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:04 am

Yes, I'm aware of the differences between low-pressure (10-15 psi) and "house pressure" of 12 "H2O.

All my devices run at ~12 psi, and all have built-in regulators (they are all intended for use with 1 lb propane cans, which provide ~125 psi @ 70F).

My intention with using cut-off valves is to prevent a leaking QD from causing a problem when only one or two appliances are in use. I use a similar system with CO2 for dispensing beer, and regardless of how much care and attention, QDs leak. Either a piece of dirt gets in there, or the brass wears, or ... so the shut-off valves are just "suspenders" behind the QD "belt." :)

The idea of an enclosure for the gas fittings is a good one, I'll look into that.

Thanks for the pointers to the Mr Heater and the danmarcrvparts sites. The Mr Heater PDF looks useful.

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