Propane line, I was wrong

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Propane line, I was wrong

Postby Shadow Catcher » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:40 pm

Ok technically I was misinformed so I wasn't wrong. All of the sources I had seen indicated you must use black steel pipe. This was wrong on two counts you can use galvanized and you can us all copper. I found a copy of the RVIA propane standards and what appears to have happened is that those I had seen left out the, Oh by the way it is OK to use copper too.
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Postby madjack » Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:26 pm

...didja see any thing on the type copper which was approved...such as TypeK(heavy wall) soft(flexible) copper piping........
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:52 pm

Yep K and L so medium and heavy wall.
The source is http://www.bustropolis.com/files/downlo ... mation.pdf this has a bunch of useful propane info
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Postby madjack » Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:30 pm

...thanks for the clarification :thumbsup: ........................................ 8)
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Postby Colemancooler » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:36 pm

in the city where i live Galvanized is not approved for gas piping because the galvanization can flake off, and plug your gas orifices
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Postby dh » Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:23 pm

Colemancooler wrote:in the city where i live Galvanized is not approved for gas piping because the galvanization can flake off, and plug your gas orifices


Has anybody has actually seen this happen?
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Postby Wanna Be » Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:30 pm

Colemancooler Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:36 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

in the city where i live Galvanized is not approved for gas piping because the galvanization can flake off, and plug your gas orifices

YES !! and it cost me a new furnace !!
The new line was copper attached to black steel.
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:38 pm

I have not had a problem in 32 years, but galvanizing is subject to quality problems as with any other process.
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Postby Colemancooler » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:21 am

i believe that is the same reason Teflon tape is not used, one small piece is all it would take to plug an orifice or regulator. :thinking:
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Postby Treeview » Wed Feb 08, 2012 11:52 am

Shadow Catcher wrote:... this has a bunch of useful propane info


That's a 2000 standard...are there updates or is this current?
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Postby Larry C » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:43 pm

Here's some interesting reading:

The history of Black iron versus galvanized iron pipe. In years past black iron pipe was made as a seamless pipe. A raw donut of iron was super heated then physically stretched to about 30 feet to form a tube. The seamless tube was then reheated and passed through forming dies to reduce it to its final diameter.

Galvanized pipe was made in a continuous forming operation where a flat piece of steel was heated and formed though dies until it was rounded to the final pipe shape and continuously welded for its entire lenght. After the raw pipe was formed it then was passed through the zinc plating process, cut into finished lengths and pressure tested prior to passing final inspection. The concern was that if the zinc coating were to corrode away it would then leave the weld exposed to corrosion and could introduce a leak in the pipe. For that reasons only seamless black iron pipe was approved for gas.



The codes now approve Black Iron Pipe, galvanized pipe, continuous drawn copper pipe (Copper pipe may only be used if the gas is certified to contain less than 0.3grains of hydrogen sulfide per 100 cubic feet-requires a certification letter from the gas supplier- and the copper pipe MUST BE labelled as approved for gas.)

Polybutelene and polyethelene is approved for direct burial underground service only. (When plastic lines are run below grade you must also install an AWG18 yellow insulated copper trace wire parallel to the line to permit tracing the line with a tone generator.)

The International Residential Code also permits CSST (continuous stainless steel Tubing) but it is prohibited by the Uniform Plumbing Code.

While these materials may be listed as approved by the major codes, many local codes still limit gas inside a structure to black iron pipe.

It must also be noted that in those areas where other materials may be approved, you MAY NOT mix materials on a run. If its black pipe, all fittings must also be black pipe.

Copper may not be directly coupled to iron pipe, but rather you must use a dielectric union approved for gas or a 6" hardened bronze nipple to make the transistion. Copper pipe requires brazed joints or approved threaded fittings.

There must also be a dielectric union or bronze nipple separating gas lines below grade from gas lines above grade and the above grade gas lines MUST BE bonded to the house electrical grounding system.

Some codes prohibit iron pipe below grade, and in those instances where it may be used below grade the pipe must be factory wrapped and all fittings must be field wrapped to prevent direct contact with earth.

All pipe used for gas service MUST BE NEW or previously used for gas service only.

Defective gas pipe or fittings must be replaced. It may not be repaired.

Also, regardless of material, when a gas line is laid under a slab it is required to be run through a conduit made of schedule 40 iron pipe or PVC pipe at least two nominial trade sizes larger than the gas line. The conduit MUST BE SEALED on each end and it must have an atmospheric vent outside the structure and at least 4" above finished grade.
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Postby dh » Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:47 am

So, Larry, no mention of brass. I need to attach a brass compression fitting to a galvanized pipe, how do I need to make this connection? Still have to have a hardened bronze nipple?
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Postby Larry C » Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:16 am

dh wrote:So, Larry, no mention of brass. I need to attach a brass compression fitting to a galvanized pipe, how do I need to make this connection? Still have to have a hardened bronze nipple?


If your using the brass flare fitting, and I hope you mean flare and not compression! on your trailer for transitioning from steel pipe to a hose flare connection, you probably don't have to do anything. The problem for in house use is galvanic corrosion from stray current with dissimilar metals, and the house electrical system/earth ground. If your concerned you could add a dielectric union between the flare fitting and the brass SAE flare connection. BTW/ what size piping are you using?

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Postby dh » Thu Feb 09, 2012 2:45 pm

My bad on the comp fitting, I meant flare. I'm running 1/2" galvanized pipe from the tongue to the galley, a little less than an 11' run (9' tear with a 2' tongue box) with a little up and over to clear the torsion axle.
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Postby Larry C » Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:07 pm

dh wrote:My bad on the comp fitting, I meant flare. I'm running 1/2" galvanized pipe from the tongue to the galley, a little less than an 11' run (9' tear with a 2' tongue box) with a little up and over to clear the torsion axle.

And what is the flexible connection (hose)?
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