Teardrop plumbing diagram

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Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby zimbar » Sat Aug 01, 2015 9:55 pm

Hi folks,
Would you all mind taking a look at my plumbing diagram for the galley? What I'm really looking from you all is ....do I have my check valves in the right place? Should one go before or after the water pump?

Thanks!
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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby capnTelescope » Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:10 am

I don't think you need the check valve in the pump circuit. :NC Water is like electricity, it will just follow the path of least resistance.

Maybe someone else can 'splain why it's necessary, but I cant.
I'll burn that bridge when I come to it.

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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby lrrowe » Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:13 am

I had that thought also. Why would they be needed at all?
Bob

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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby MtnDon » Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:46 pm

In the diagram should not the item in the upper left be separated into 2 pieces?
1 = the fill port for the onboard water storage tank and,
2 = the campground/shore/city pressurized water connection?

Then the check valve at the page top makes sense, as it prevents water backing up the shore connection when the RV water pump is activated.
~~~~

I'm not certain but I believe the check valve that is before the water pump (that is on the inlet side of the pump) should be placed on the outlet side of the pump. In the outlet side it would prevent camp/shore/city water pressure from being applied to the pump.

Not certain on all that as I never bothered with the camp/shore/city portion because we mostly boondock. I figure in a full service campground I'll just use the camp water to fill the internal tank and continue to use the RV water pump.
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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby MtnDon » Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:55 pm

A related idea may be desired by boondockers. I am a water miser when we camp. I hate the waste of water when waiting for hot water to arrive at the point of use (sink, shower...) . I inserted a valve and some piping to make it possible to cycle the water back to the supply tank.

I have a tee in the hot water line just before where the hot water pipe connects to the hot side of the sink faucet. I have a valve at the tee branch. The valve connects a pipe back to the fresh water (cold) supply tank. When we are watching our water consumption the drill goes like this....

1. open bypass valve. Cool water flows through the extra pipe back to the supply tank.
2. the valve gets warm as hot water reaches the bypass valve.
3. close bypass when valve gets warm/hot.
4. open faucet at sink and hot water is there virtually immediately. Very little actual waste

The branch that goes to our shower control is very close by so when taking a shower we do the above sequence. There is only about 4 feet of 1/2" ID pipe that does not have heated water in it so the waste is minimal. Beats running water down the drain when you haul every ounce you use.

I hope the word picture is clear as I have no photos. Could make a sketch is anyone needs it.
Our 6x12 deep vee nose cargo trailer camper conversion... viewtopic.php?f=42&t=58336

We have a small off grid cabin we built ourselves in the NM mountains; small PV solar system; 624 watts PV, Outback CC & inverter/charger ... http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.0
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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby Dale M. » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:44 am

If water inlet has two actual ports, one gravity feed and one pressure feed the upper check valve should prevent pump from back flowing water out of pressure feed if not capped..

Lower check valve (should be before pump) should prevent city water for back flowing into tank and running out filler if not capped.... But without lower check valve you might be able to pressure fill tank from city water by actually letting "back flow" happen... By having a by pass line with valve routing around pump and lower check valve...

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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby lrrowe » Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:06 pm

MtnDon wrote:A related idea may be desired by boondockers. I am a water miser when we camp. I hate the waste of water when waiting for hot water to arrive at the point of use (sink, shower...) . I inserted a valve and some piping to make it possible to cycle the water back to the supply tank.

I have a tee in the hot water line just before where the hot water pipe connects to the hot side of the sink faucet. I have a valve at the tee branch. The valve connects a pipe back to the fresh water (cold) supply tank. When we are watching our water consumption the drill goes like this....

1. open bypass valve. Cool water flows through the extra pipe back to the supply tank.
2. the valve gets warm as hot water reaches the bypass valve.
3. close bypass when valve gets warm/hot.
4. open faucet at sink and hot water is there virtually immediately. Very little actual waste

The branch that goes to our shower control is very close by so when taking a shower we do the above sequence. There is only about 4 feet of 1/2" ID pipe that does not have heated water in it so the waste is minimal. Beats running water down the drain when you haul every ounce you use.

I hope the word picture is clear as I have no photos. Could make a sketch is anyone needs it.


MtnDon, I have seen your photos where this layout is in place. I think it is a great idea, another idea from you which I am copying. For me though, I am going to somehow put this valve in the shower itself, next to the shower valves for ease of use. Otherwise I will have to open the nearby cabinet door to work this valve which would not be that friendly.

Thanks again.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby zimbar » Tue Aug 11, 2015 4:16 am

Dale M. wrote:If water inlet has two actual ports, one gravity feed and one pressure feed the upper check valve should prevent pump from back flowing water out of pressure feed if not capped..

Lower check valve (should be before pump) should prevent city water for back flowing into tank and running out filler if not capped.... But without lower check valve you might be able to pressure fill tank from city water by actually letting "back flow" happen... By having a by pass line with valve routing around pump and lower check valve...

Dale

Thanks Dale. I'll place the check valve before the pump as you suggest.

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Re: Teardrop plumbing diagram

Postby zimbar » Tue Aug 11, 2015 4:23 am

MtnDon wrote:In the diagram should not the item in the upper left be separated into 2 pieces?
1 = the fill port for the onboard water storage tank and,
2 = the campground/shore/city pressurized water connection?

Then the check valve at the page top makes sense, as it prevents water backing up the shore connection when the RV water pump is activated.
~~~~

I'm not certain but I believe the check valve that is before the water pump (that is on the inlet side of the pump) should be placed on the outlet side of the pump. In the outlet side it would prevent camp/shore/city water pressure from being applied to the pump.

Not certain on all that as I never bothered with the camp/shore/city portion because we mostly boondock. I figure in a full service campground I'll just use the camp water to fill the internal tank and continue to use the RV water pump.


MntDon, you are correct.... That block in my diagram should have had a line seperating the gravity fill port from the City Water port. Foul-up on my part, but you knew that anyway.
Thanks, zimbar
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