Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I like the looks of the screen mesh one for sure. That looks good and smooth and would be horrendously strong for sure. How good is the coverage of HWFF foam fusion? I can use the 30NF at a gallon and cover more than the outside and inside of a complete camper once and that's around 110 a gallon for that for me.

linuxmanxxx wrote:I like the looks of the screen mesh one for sure. That looks good and smooth and would be horrendously strong for sure. How good is the coverage of HWFF foam fusion? I can use the 30NF at a gallon and cover more than the outside and inside of a complete camper once and that's around 110 a gallon for that for me.

hwff wrote:The coverage of Styroplast listed here is per gallon and depends on the thickness:

1/32" thick, 51.3 sq/ft
1/16" thick, 25.6 sq/ft
1/8" thick, 12.8 sq/ft
1/4" thick, 6.4 sq/ft

We do often offer discounts for clubs and groups like this, so if this product turns out to be something that is going to work for your application and some of you want to order some, we can talk about discounts then.

Please let me know if you have any other questions!

here's the coverage

linuxmanxxx wrote:I like the looks of the screen mesh one for sure. That looks good and smooth and would be horrendously strong for sure. How good is the coverage of HWFF foam fusion? I can use the 30NF at a gallon and cover more than the outside and inside of a complete camper once and that's around 110 a gallon for that for me.

My only issue with screen mesh is that it does not conform as well as fiberglass or even the mesh cloth. I guess as long as you don't have any tight corners you should be ok. The mesh weave certainly hides well in the thin layer of Styroplast

Here's the reply I got from the Hot Wire Foam Factory regarding spraying the Styroplast

"Styroplast is sprayable, but it's much more difficult to apply and the
fact that this formula is brushable is the whole reason we introduced
the Styroplast to our line. There is no other polyurethane coating that we
know of that is formulated to be applied with a brush rather than
expensive spray equipment. To spray any polyurethane coating you will
need a hopper type sprayer, gloves, a supplied-air respirator (not just
a paint mask) and a considerable amount of skill. If something in the
mixing is not quite right, cleaning the Styroplast out of the equipment
will be a chore. My suggestion is to practice a few times with a brush
until you learn how to apply a smooth surface."

As I scale up my experiments, I will keep working at that smooth surface. Dan from HWFF (not the same person I normally exchange emails with) says he prefers a trowel to spread out the Styroplast. He uses standard concrete tools. I'm gonna mess with a roller this weekend, just to see if that works too.

Mel,

How badly did the styroplast smell? What breathing equipment did you use?

Bonnie

bonnie wrote:Mel,

How badly did the styroplast smell? What breathing equipment did you use?

Bonnie

I did not detect any harsh odors or anything out of the ordinary. And although I have one, I did not use my half mask respirator. I worked in the den in the house (it was way too cold in the garage) left the window open about half way, closed the door and used a household fan to circulate air past the work area (not a direct breeze). Even my wife with her very sensitive nose didn't say anything about the odor. I was careful to make sure I did the mixing and disposal in the garage and if there was cleanup to do, I would do that outdoors also.

Mel, what is the viscosity like - honey, heavy cream, latex, enamel? Also wondering what the weight increase is like to your samples.

found this while 'surfing'. Properties read similar to FoamFusion but cost is 42/gal as opposed to 69/gal for FF

http://www.demandproducts.com/Signage-i ... u=GROUPESC

allan1 wrote:Mel, what is the viscosity like - honey, heavy cream, latex, enamel? Also wondering what the weight increase is like to your samples.

Sorry, been away for a while... It's thicker than standard paint, maybe as thick as honey.

allan1 wrote:found this while 'surfing'. Properties read similar to FoamFusion but cost is 42/gal as opposed to 69/gal for FF

http://www.demandproducts.com/Signage-i ... u=GROUPESC

Hmmmm, looks promising. Worth some investigating...

hey mel, i am not sure if its been tried here yet or not (i just can't remember) but, have or could you do a test with the gorilla glue and the hot wire foam fushion glue?

i watched the vid of the guy testing that against wood glues. the guy had to really use some power to seperate the foam using that foam glue. was curious about gg.
i don't think gg is as good at all, because i can peel it right off when i get too much on my foam. but i never tried to really seperate any pieces once it has cured.

i am leaning towards using the hot wire foam fushion glue, but am still curious about the gg.

i do have a piece out back that i think has gg on it, i may go out and look. but its too cold right now.

eaglesdare wrote:hey mel, i am not sure if its been tried here yet or not (i just can't remember) but, have or could you do a test with the gorilla glue and the hot wire foam fushion glue?

i watched the vid of the guy testing that against wood glues. the guy had to really use some power to seperate the foam using that foam glue. was curious about gg.
i don't think gg is as good at all, because i can peel it right off when i get too much on my foam. but i never tried to really seperate any pieces once it has cured.

i am leaning towards using the hot wire foam fushion glue, but am still curious about the gg.

i do have a piece out back that i think has gg on it, i may go out and look. but its too cold right now.

I have some GG and definitely have some of the Foam Fusion. I assume you are looking at foam to foam gluing. I can do edge to edge and face to face. I'll do those sample tomorrow.

If you have any doubt about your foam to foam joinery , you can always do as Cone’ suggested and use dowel pins to reinforce the join ...

atahoekid wrote:

eaglesdare wrote:hey mel, i am not sure if its been tried here yet or not (i just can't remember) but, have or could you do a test with the gorilla glue and the hot wire foam fushion glue?

i watched the vid of the guy testing that against wood glues. the guy had to really use some power to seperate the foam using that foam glue. was curious about gg.
i don't think gg is as good at all, because i can peel it right off when i get too much on my foam. but i never tried to really seperate any pieces once it has cured.

i am leaning towards using the hot wire foam fushion glue, but am still curious about the gg.

i do have a piece out back that i think has gg on it, i may go out and look. but its too cold right now.

I have some GG and definitely have some of the Foam Fusion. I assume you are looking at foam to foam gluing. I can do edge to edge and face to face. I'll do those sample tomorrow.

yes, foam to foam and joint, and face samples.

GPW wrote:If you have any doubt about your foam to foam joinery , you can always do as Cone’ suggested and use dowel pins to reinforce the join ...

no doubts.

but speaking of that method, some of those videos on your tube, shows an insert of some type, pvc/dowel, then filled in with the spray foam, holds great.