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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:21 pm
by atahoekid
bonnie wrote:Okay, so how much wood would be enough? I don't plan to stand on the top of my trailer's pop top. Some bracing is needed, but how much? If the foam is providing the strength via the sock, what then?

Confused and bewilder, am I.

Bonnie


I'm planning on 1x2's every 16 to 18 inches or so across running from right to left. I too don't plan on standing on the top. I'm planning on embedding the cross braces into my 2 inch foam. That should give it plenty of strength to hold up some weight like light snow or ice. The roof will be also covered on the inside with lauan plywood. Not really so much for strength, although there is that advantage but for aesthetics.

Hope that helps.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:27 am
by eaglesdare
bonnie you can always get lowes to cut for you. we have done that a few times. we don't have all those fancy tools either.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:12 am
by bonnie
Lowes is quite good with straight stuff. Though right now, their saw in broken.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:31 am
by GPW
The promise of a really GOOD glue for canvas to Foam is very exciting .... Seems that’s been one of the big issues so far , adhesion ... although I’ve had No problems using the T2 , a proper glue would assure the skeptics of the integrity of the "sockâ€

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:17 am
by Wolffarmer
Rosey wrote:
atahoekid wrote:I had some time to kill at work prior to an appointment and so I spent the time in a worthwhile fashion, searching the internet for things teardrop/foamie trailer related and came upon this article.

http://canoeguybc.wordpress.com/2011/11/20/alternatives-to-traditional-wood-canoe-canvas-fillers/

This guy talks about using other than traditional compounds to fill in the weave on canvas for a glossy smooth finish on a canoe. The traditional compound takes 4 weeks to cure and you gotta mix it yourself. The non-traditional compounds are ready mixed and dry quicker. Since I am one of those foamlings who wants a smooth gloss finish on my build, I will be doing more research on this, hoping I can use the technique on the "Road Foamie"

Here's the link to the latex lagging compound that he mentions

http://www.industrialinsulation.com/ima ... ng_adh.pdf

This has gotten my attention !!! Any one else with an opinion? Good? Bad? Otherwise? :thinking: :thinking:


Wow, I read up on this stuff, it seems like a product that is made to bond canvas to polystyrene would be perfect for our application! It looks like it is possible to buy this in 2 gal buckets from Airgas for $35. Definitely worth a try! Thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:


I saw that also. Many of the products I wonder about how flexible they might be. I suppose if they are restoring canvas canoes with it would indicate it is very flexible. Unless the canoes are made to be wall decorations.

Does anybody know anyone in the HVAC biz that might be familiar with this?

Past two days I have cut out and glued together my first foamie and ready to round the corners and then the cloth. Don't get excited. It is a little project to get some experience.

Before this method came up I was going to use the base stock they use for a dark outdoors paint. The paint before they add the color to it. But now along comes this stuff. Getting so many methods.

:? :?

Randy

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:32 am
by Wolffarmer
Rosey

You said you can get that stuff at Airgas. WE have an Airgas here, they are mostly a supplier of welding equipment and gasses, safety equipment. Is that the same place?

The Airgas web sight doesn't seem to know anything about the Chil-Seal. Or look like they have any thing directly related to HVAC work.

I found this place

Chil-Seal

Randy

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:37 am
by linuxmanxxx
This stuff looks the most promising of anything I've seen on here. Its a hybrid glue coating that is thick enough to smooth out the finish with 1 or 2 coats and not overly expensive. Drawback is it doesn't appear to be readily available at all.

I think something like this is needed to do any glass work over the foam as it will stick to the foam and then the glass sticks to this. If there is still an adhesion issue to this you could go with TB3 over the outside which is a harder surface and then glass over it or just paint with ay kind of paint that would originally eat the foam but since you've changed the surface to a coating that can take any surface on top of it.

So a safe path would be use this to adhere the canvas coat with TB3 and then epoxy glass/paint the shell.

You wanna make it look really good you can then trim it with the trim I use on my production campers flextrim which is flexible and uv resistant and quite strong and nice looking and just glue on with PL-premium but its 2.80 a running foot but looks really good and will flex around your curves no problem and they will shape it for tighter radiuses no extra charge.

PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:40 am
by Wolffarmer
Yes, I was thinking TB3 over it then paint. Should be very little weave left.

Randy


Edit, well I have ordered some. I doubt if it will get here before next week. I might get some paint base and see how that works also.

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 7:47 am
by Rosey
Wolffarmer wrote:Rosey

You said you can get that stuff at Airgas. WE have an Airgas here, they are mostly a supplier of welding equipment and gasses, safety equipment. Is that the same place?

The Airgas web sight doesn't seem to know anything about the Chil-Seal. Or look like they have any thing directly related to HVAC work.

I found this place

Chil-Seal

Randy


Randy,
It is the same company. Here is the link where I found it.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDet ... 30cp50amv1
I'm off work today and tomorrow :beer: , and Airgas has a local retail store, so I'll try to track it down. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:00 am
by GPW
Rosey, Thanks !! That looks like great stuff... adhesive and fills ... 8) Not expensive either ... :thumbsup: Anxious to hear how this works out ...

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:31 am
by aggie79
linuxmanxxx wrote:You wanna make it look really good you can then trim it with the trim I use on my production campers flextrim which is flexible and uv resistant and quite strong and nice looking and just glue on with PL-premium but its 2.80 a running foot but looks really good and will flex around your curves no problem and they will shape it for tighter radiuses no extra charge.


linuxmanxxx,

Can you say a little bit more about the trim - manufacturer/supplier, profile, etc.? It looks really good on your trailers!

Thank you,
Tom

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:19 am
by Wolffarmer
Thanks Rosey. I searched and could not find it on Airgas's site. But who knows how i might have speeled it. But I have already ordered it so live and learn.

At least here Airgas is very convenient for me.

Randy

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:40 am
by linuxmanxxx
aggie79 wrote:linuxmanxxx,

Can you say a little bit more about the trim - manufacturer/supplier, profile, etc.? It looks really good on your trailers!

Thank you,
Tom
Look at the green one which is their common in stock item is what I ordered and used and for seams I got the thinner of the flat stock. Its the CM205 that is on my campers. It was a less than fun task to find something that would go around our front radius and is why the prototype didn't have any trim because I found this after we completed it. http://www.trimster.com/flexcat.asp?category=Corner%20Mold&option=showall#

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:43 am
by GPW
Wow !!! They even have a store on my side of the River... close (12mi.) 8)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:50 am
by linuxmanxxx
Rosey wrote:Randy,
It is the same company. Here is the link where I found it.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDet ... 30cp50amv1
I'm off work today and tomorrow :beer: , and Airgas has a local retail store, so I'll try to track it down. :thumbsup:
Now I want to point out if you read the article about this stuff it has 2 grades and the higher grade is what Randy's link is to and the airgas is the lower grade version. Notice the names being different with MV1 and HV2.