My Foamie Build--Updated --Jul 3 I'm eating an elephant

[bonnie]

The walls are actually 1". Though the back wall will end up be 3" to accommodate my Hobbit Door. Since I'm discarding most of the top's walls anyway, I'm debating whether to use 2" foam or not. For the holiday and the weekend plan I want to mock up one side based on my brother's design and try it with the bottom. I have the pipe and ends to make the pivot and will give it a go, I hope. All depends on the weather, which has warmed up considerably. I also want to get the door to it's final shape and maybe put some more mix on it. I did get the chance to put the bed frame in place and it will work just fine. I'll have a couple of inches to each side open when it's in bed mode. The lift pieces are scattered over my dining room table, so I guess it's a good thing Thanksgiving is elsewhere tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, enjoy your day, as I will be.

[bonnie]

We had shirt sleeve weather today. I didn't have to go to the office. I skipped lunch. I got stuff done!

So after breakfast and a couple of errands I had to get done. I headed to the garage. Now, I'm really limited on space, so first up on the agenda was to drag the folding stand and the Hobbit door outside to trim it the rest of the way up. I can figure out anything with the walls until that's done, right. Right! After trying the jig saw to trim things up -- not very pretty. I got out the brand new (cheap) trim router I bought. Whoo Hooo. Gonna make some headway now. No such luck. There wasn't a bit. Off to the box store and home with a 1/4-1/4 flush cut bit. Presto. Progress!



Finished:



There was a lot of splinters and rough edges, but the palm sander took care of it. One sliver of the top cedar planking snapped off. Repairs underway:



On to the interior of BUB. I needed to remove the built in cabinets to make my bed idea work, so I started cutting away. Now I own power tools, but I'm finding I like my little saw max the best. Anyhow, here's some pics of the removals:



and after:



Now all of that work was done so I can see how much more I need to do to make the Hobbit door work with BUB. So, after a quick break, I got things arranged in BUB. The first picture is of the brace I made to bolt the hinges into. It's just clamped to the rear wall. The neat thing is it's sitting at just the right height to match up with the hinge holes on the door. Even if I trim the bottom of the door a bit, it will still work!



Here's a shot looking at the rear of BUB. Is that not close or what?? The porta pottie is sitting at the end of the bed. Unfortunately the little end table I was hoping to use as a sink holder is too big. I'll figure something out. Door looks so good.



How close is the door height to the normal BUB wall height? Glad you asked. Missed it by that much ....



I don't know, maybe 1/2 inch? Of course you have to have room for the frame and such. That's going to be a puzzle for certain. At least now I have a concrete idea how much I need to reduce or add to the mix.

Finally, I have found a way to add a bit of storage and comfortable backrests to the front of BUB's cabin. So here's a naked shot of the bed in place. it's a full when the additional bars are added so there will be room to have the quilt hang over the edge.



The only other thing I may do tonight is take my LED lights out there and give them a small trial. I only have 9 volt batteries available, so it won't be as bright as it could be. Tomorrow is supposed to be very pretty too.

[KCStudly]

Nice. I'm glad you were able to get some build time in. It's starting to come together.

I know what you mean about hand tools vs. power tools. So often I find myself using my little sanding block for what seems like forever, and wondering if I should get out the power sander. I just have so much more control and can't make mistakes as fast with the hand tools that I find myself using them more for the important details.

Build on.

[Wobbly Wheels]

Good progress Bonnie !
Is recessing the door into the floor a little bit an option ?

...can't make mistakes as fast...

Hehe...so, so true...especially on foam. I'm using a pull saw and a block more than anything. Foam doesn't take much...

[bonnie]

KC, thank you. I do like the control I get from the hand tools I use. Slow and sure is a better option at times.

From the BUB's original build thread, the torsion box is 3" The ends seemed to be made out of 2x3 and I think I probably could cut into it without too much trouble. I am concerned whether or not it would weaken the floor enough that I woud have to worry about it developing stress crack type issues. I might have to remove some the foam and rebrace it with another 2x3. Trying to think it through; suggestions welcome.

Since today is supposed to be a really nice day; I plan on cutting and framing the test side. I need to see if my SAR additions to my brother's plan are correct before committing $$$. I also want to attempt to get the bracing pieces drawn and cut out today. Then I can get an idea of what I need to adjust.

[mezmo]

Hi Bonnie,

I came across this Hobbit House posting today,
it has a couple nice round door pics,

http://inhabitat.com/archer-buchanan-cr ... /?extend=1

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[bonnie]

That is nice. I've been working on the door, too. Trying to figure out how much to adjust the back wall. Pictures soon.

[GPW]

That’s a MASSIVE hinge ... a lot of weight on one point ....

Bonnie ... Please !!!

[bonnie]

Soon. I promise.

[coal_burner]

you should be fine cutting that rear piece of wood frame to make room for the door.
so long as you put a few layers of fiberglass cloth over the foam in the entire area that you removed the wood from, it should be plenty rigid.
in one of the earlier pages of the original build thread i mentioned that i wouldn't have used the wood if i were to do the project over again.

[bonnie]

So, how dumb am I? I woke up this morning in one of those moments. The BUB has a curved roof line. Coal-burner built it that way by putting a 2x4 under the foam; weighting down the edges and fixing the curve in fiberglass. So, in order to make my original design conform to the curve, I would need to curve the front and --- wait for it -- back walls to support the curve in the down position. That curve is about, oh, 3" deep. The door is only about 1.5" too tall. So, if I build the wall up a bit to fit the curve and maybe even cut out the bottom to fit the lower edge. Think Vardo here. I've got a plan!

I wish it wasn't so right now. May have to do some work in the house.

I've also come up with a plan for interior roof lining.

[PcHistorian]

Wow, I can see I'm about a year out of date here. Which is about right, considering Michigan had such a warm winter last year. I've almost got a year's worth to update on my trailer documentary.

Glad to see you are moving along.
(It is either build season or document season for me. (winter/summer))

I'm going to have to look at 6 mo.s of your posts to catch up.

[PcHistorian]

Wow, I can see I'm about a year out of date here. Which is about right, considering Michigan had such a warm winter last year. I've almost got a year's worth to update on my trailer documentary.

[bonnie]

Wow, I can see I'm about a year out of date here. Which is about right, considering Michigan had such a warm winter last year. I've almost got a year's worth to update on my trailer documentary.

Glad to see you are moving along.
(It is either build season or document season for me. (winter/summer))

I'm going to have to look at 6 mo.s of your posts to catch up.

I know what you mean. I am so behind, too.

[PcHistorian]

So is that a Hobbit Habitat or a Bonnie Build? (as in the Scottish, bonnie as good / Bonnie the lead Engineer...) Looks spacious inside. Good for you.