Deer Blind

[Petero58]

Wasn’t sure where to put this, so thought I would stick it here. Please let me know if I should have posted elsewhere.

I have been lurking here for a while and have been really intrigued with the idea of building with foam boards.

I have decided to build a deer stand out of foam board using the PMF technique. I have already started ordering some of the material, but before I go too far I wanted to see if anyone has recommendations.

I have built numerous deer blinds out of 2x4 and plywood, and am tired of them not lasting and needing a forklift to put in place.

I will update with progress for anyone interested as I go.

First question: Will 1/2 foam board work for the walls or should I stick with 1”? I have already ordered TB3 and plan to use the canvas drop cloths from HD.

Second question: should I build a skeleton frame with 2x2 before foam and wrapping? If I don’t have a frame of some sort, will it be strong enough? I won’t be moving the stand much once it’s set up, but I will be trailering it on a 5 hour trek for its final destination. I have already ordered the glass flip up windows and will definitely be framing the window and door openings for strength.

Third question: I am really struggling with the idea of attaching to a 5’ base. Should I encapsulate the entire blind in PMF and then drill holes in floor to attach lag bolts to frame? Or include the base encapsulated into the blind? I usually can think of designs in my head and come up with them on the fly but this one has me stumped.

Any other ideas or input is greatly appreciated.

[Petero58]

Forgot to mention. The blind dimensions will be roughly 5x6 and 6’ tall. May make it slightly bigger. Not sure yet.

[troubleScottie]

I am not sure if I understand your needs.

Not being a hunter, my impression is that a blind is often away from roads and/or not easily accessible. Can you move the trailer into the place that you want? Or are you expecting to move the blind without the trailer to the spot? So you (may) have two transport problems ie to the area and that last mile or so.

Are you expecting any amenities in the blind?



Why would you not use a portable blind like http://stores.clamoutdoors.com/clam/she ... blind.html.

[Petero58]

Thanks for the update.

The blind will be set as permanent once it’s transported.

Simulator to this: https://www.texashunterproducts.com/tex ... h-8-tower/

[GTS225]

Perhaps you should tell us where this blind is going to be. (Regional location, not exact.) Snow load should be considered for both walls and roof. Niceties going in, too? (Heater that needs to be vented?)

Roger

[Petero58]

The blind will be set up in West Texas. No snow, but sometimes heavy rain and winds. I am pretty comfortable with building these out of wood and securing them down with anchors for wind.

Pretty basic really, just a foam "box" wrapped in TB3, canvas and outdoor paint. I will be adding a sheet of 3/4 plywood to floor for stability. Just not sure how to attach the "box" to a later built base or legs to get it up in the air. Also trying to decide if a 2x2 frame is overkill for the build (again, definitely going to frame windows and door with 2x2)

[Petero58]

If it helps at all, here are the windows I ordered.

https://www.mcssl.com/store/theoriginal ... swing-sash

[Petero58]

Roof will also have a 1" or so pitch. The front wall of the blind will be around 6', back wall dropping to somewhere around 5'11" to allow rain to not pool on the roof

[KennethW]

For strength of the roof. Arch it by cutting the 1 1/2 foam every 4 inchs almost through and curve it around the top will be a have more strength than a flat roof. A 6" arch would make a big difference. (12" for I" foam)

[Petero58]

Interesting idea. Just makes me nervous having an overhang or "lip" for wind to grab either trailering the stand down the freeway or once its set up from normal wind.

So an arched roof will be stronger than a slanted roof.

Any thoughts around if I need a wood frame of any kind or is the foam board, TBIII, gorilla glue and multiple coats of outdoor paint going to be strong enough to hold everything together?

[KennethW]

Lap the cavnas both ways on the corners. To make it easier. Apply the canvas on the walls laying down with the canvas extend over the edges and the glue back from the edges for the over lap. The double over lap the corners will be very strong.

[Pmullen503]

Interesting idea. Just makes me nervous having an overhang or "lip" for wind to grab either trailering the stand down the freeway or once its set up from normal wind.

So an arched roof will be stronger than a slanted roof.

Any thoughts around if I need a wood frame of any kind or is the foam board, TBIII, gorilla glue and multiple coats of outdoor paint going to be strong enough to hold everything together?

It depends on how thick your foam is. The stiffness of your walls and roof will increase exponentially with the thickness of the foam. 2" foam probably won't require a frame. 1/2" foam definitely will.

I'm assuming your floor will be plywood. Make sure you run your canvas down under the floor for several inches. That will tie the walls to the floor.

I would extend the roof at least a couple inches over the wall to shed water.

[Petero58]

Thinking of 1”, but not completely decided yet.

Floor will definitely have some plywood as well as foam and I think I will go with the roof overhang a few inches. I like that idea.

[Petero58]

I plan on wrapping the entire floor/bottom, foam and plywood sandwich, in canvas as well.

[Pmullen503]

A sandwich bottom will work and can a little lighter than solid plywood. A warmer floor is nice. For trailer floors we usually run a perimeter of solid wood and blocks of solid wood in areas where fasteners will go and fill the rest with foam.

What are the dimensions of the top of the stand?