Truck cap/Camper cap build

[RJ Howell]

Up early and playing with Sketchup for a basic layout of the sleeping area. A pee toilet is a must for my wife.

I see this as 3 sections so far. Right side (long bed) as one, left side wall section and lastly the panel between right side & wall section. This leaves me a nice spot under the right side for a long slide-out storage box. Left side bed panel I want removable for when I solo in this.

It's a start..

[RJ Howell]

Today lead to trying the TB2 50/50 mix. I had two small sides to do before I wish to add the second half of the top.

First thought while doing it was; This is way too thin, spreads much to nice, way too easy to work with.. never hold..
It held! So much easier to work with.





The feel is equal to the Gripper after sanding with the TB2 without. Almost scary...

I propped the first half of the roof to match the second half I add the structural aluminum to and glued in the roof. The base structure is now built, WHOA!





Clean up time on the inside, edge and seal.



Side project is the Pee Toilet for Wifey. May have come up with something. She so far likes, that's a huge WHOA!





Now to decide abut the molding.



I'm now thinking, with the way the Dura-bond has worked as a filler, and now how the TB2 is working.. I may not use.
Joining the joints like I'd want to see, sealing those joints, dealing with all this.. I'm starting to think I can defeat those ugly lines with my filler.

Thought right now, driving blind here, is to top coat the filler with the diluted TB2 and finish coat over. Probably light sand..

Todays update, for what it's worth and anyone that may be following.

[pchast]

[dbhosttexas]

In the process of learning this technic of building my intention is to build a Camper Cap for my F-150.

This will serve as a cap, as well as a 'weekend' escape camper. I do a lot of Overlanding and found so many place I'd like to stay for the night. This may just fill that want.
My ultimate build will come later and hopefully incorporate what I learn from this process.

With reading several threads now of how folks have done theirs, I'm ready to dive in. Basic design set and will change as I proceed. Pictures vs. drawings and explaination of what I'm doing/about to do.

Here's the basic design.

Here's the curved roof version which I hope to achieve:


This is just a Cap, not a full camper. I consider it a Sleeper. A raised platform for the bed (to get full width) and over-cab is just for weekend storage of clothes. Under the platform will be an area for cooking gear, bug tent, etc.. That part later..

I have purchased the 1 1/2" styro board from HD and the Gorilla Glue. Starting to draw it out.

I have researched the deflection rate of the panel.. The math is way beyond my simple mind, so I put it on the horses and tested. I like up to 3" over 8ft. Don't like the crackling sound so much, so I won't push beyond that. I'm not yet a fan of kerfing this material, I want the added strength in this panel for the roof. Adding some stress (curve) makes sense to me.

So, my journey of learning begins!

Do you happen to have a link to that Sketchup F150 model? Is it via the website or are you still using the locally installed application? I haven't figured out how to use the web based version yet...

[RJ Howell]

Do you happen to have a link to that Sketchup F150 model? Is it via the website or are you still using the locally installed application? I haven't figured out how to use the web based version yet...[/quote]

Web-based and it's in the 3D Warehouse.
Hopefully this gets you there. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/a962b68f-d03d-43ba-8007-d8c4f3873b51/Ford-Extended-Cab-2017

If not go here and do another search. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/?hl=en

[dbhosttexas]

Today lead to trying the TB2 50/50 mix. I had two small sides to do before I wish to add the second half of the top.

First thought while doing it was; This is way too thin, spreads much to nice, way too easy to work with.. never hold..
It held! So much easier to work with.





The feel is equal to the Gripper after sanding with the TB2 without. Almost scary...

I propped the first half of the roof to match the second half I add the structural aluminum to and glued in the roof. The base structure is now built, WHOA!





Clean up time on the inside, edge and seal.



Side project is the Pee Toilet for Wifey. May have come up with something. She so far likes, that's a huge WHOA!





Now to decide abut the molding.



I'm now thinking, with the way the Dura-bond has worked as a filler, and now how the TB2 is working.. I may not use.
Joining the joints like I'd want to see, sealing those joints, dealing with all this.. I'm starting to think I can defeat those ugly lines with my filler.

Thought right now, driving blind here, is to top coat the filler with the diluted TB2 and finish coat over. Probably light sand..

Todays update, for what it's worth and anyone that may be following.

Fantastic, and encouraging work so far!

You've seen my thread already, and it would seem we have similar requirements imposed by similar sources (wife).

FWIW, I went with a flushing portable toilet after my wife told me in no uncertain terms that the bucket toilet we had been using was no longer an acceptable solution. 2 RenFests and 3 music festivals were apparently enough on that.

Looking at your build, I am very curious as to where you are going to store / haul the bucket toilet?

My bed platform height is dictated by hauling the toilet, and water carriers in the bed of the truck, and being able to sit upright in the bed...

[RJ Howell]

In this drawing it doesn't fit, yet now with the new bucket, it does! Sealing the seat and getting it ready for a test run.

[RJ Howell]

You'll be pleasantly surprised how everything strengthens up once it's canvassed. I canvassed the insides flat and then ran an 8" wide strip of canvas along the inside corners to tie the sides together after assembly. Assemble the parts quickly if you canvas the insides first: the sides and top will warp if covered on only one side and are left to dry for a couple days.

Well that's good info! Thank you!

Now, again running blind here, yet I believe re-inforcement is just an extra measure. The interior I just finished with re-enforcement using bedsheets. I figure to line the interior with the same. Exterior is a whole other game to me. My thought was to re-enforce with canvas to add that additional strength. I assume I can re-enforce without issues of warpage..??

This is great advise and I do appreciate it!

I am chest deep in things unknown!

[RJ Howell]

Interior now re-enforced. WHOA!





Several areas of attention for filler and sanding before any skin goes on, but have finally reached this point.

Interm is wifies pee toilet.





It's a work in progress.. What can I say.. Probably going to end up with cat litter/trash bag and some sort of cast in the bottom to give it weight. Yes, and a knob of sorts to remove the cover. TB2 coating (PMF was too much of a PITA) and several coats to happen. It is stiffening up (which I hoped and final paint to happen. Pee Test coming soon to see if I proceed with this.

Another day down and another to go..

[dbhosttexas]

Dry fit time!

Sides angle worked out well. I was worry about this.. I like it being in a bit and very close to matching at the top.
Someone wish to teach me how to rotate that photo, awesome!



Also looked decent along the bed rails..

I knew I was long, but rally didn't know how I want the side to hit the cab (or short of). Hmm.. 2 1/2" long..
Oh well, knew I'd be cutting it anyway.



The over-cab compartment looked rather high at first look, then measured over the cab and found I'm a 1 1/2" off the cab. I'm shooting for 1/2" at the closest point. That will be lower, yet there still will be a fairly large space thereat the sides. Always thought there would be and probably no way around that and the way most camper caps look. I may re-visit this...

The cap was so light, just a small breeze wobbled it. I know re-inforcing the seams will add quite a bit of stability, just don't know how much that really is... never done this before. I also looked at the curve of the bed rails and thought of stressing the sides a bit to follow the curve. I figure what ever I decide upon the insert (connection to the truck) would hold the curve along the bottom edge. Again, I have never worked with foam like this before and 'think' any added stress will add to stability of the over-all cap.

P.S. Folks, I've been doing a lot of talking to myself here.. I'm in the dark on many areas of this. I've asked quite a few questions and mentioned some of 'my' directions I think to go in. Please, if you can advise... do so..

I was going to mention that you might want to rethink your overcab to cab clearnace to allow for frame / bed flex, but I remembered one of the selling points of this series truck is the super stiff fully boxed frames, almost zero frame twist...

Not sure if you have the material, but how about making a duplicate of the top of the bed rail and like you mentioned, pre stressing the sides to follow the curve of the truck bed, they do taper a bit to the back... But you've already glued up etc... So that thought is gone.

[Pmullen503]

You'll be pleasantly surprised how everything strengthens up once it's canvassed. I canvassed the insides flat and then ran an 8" wide strip of canvas along the inside corners to tie the sides together after assembly. Assemble the parts quickly if you canvas the insides first: the sides and top will warp if covered on only one side and are left to dry for a couple days.

Well that's good info! Thank you!

Now, again running blind here, yet I believe re-inforcement is just an extra measure. The interior I just finished with re-enforcement using bedsheets. I figure to line the interior with the same. Exterior is a whole other game to me. My thought was to re-enforce with canvas to add that additional strength. I assume I can re-enforce without issues of warpage..??

This is great advise and I do appreciate it!

I am chest deep in things unknown!

You only have to worry about a flat piece covered on only one side that completely dries out. Once assembled, the structure is plenty stiff.

[RJ Howell]

[/quote]

You only have to worry about a flat piece covered on only one side that completely dries out. Once assembled, the structure is plenty stiff.[/quote]

That makes sense to me, again thank you!

[RJ Howell]

The current thought is to get the windows worked out and re-enforced with PMF strips before covering. Now comes cutting a hole and figuring this out.

I like the location and size, working out some details..



Trying to keep a jam of sorts in place, and keeping the base flat.. first cut-out!



The idea works, yet don't see how I would seal it easily.. I see some of my plastic wood around here coming into play.

The hinge has to get worked out. I really like this 'living hinge' I saw either here or the other forum I'm on where the folks used a piece of a fire hose. How cool! Now to come up with some..
The drip edge I always figured I'd use some of my tin and bend a piece.



Then as looking at it I realized the lead side would have a tendency to leak if driving in a rain storm. I see something happening there as well.



Well, I also need to fix my wife's pee toilet seat. Lesson learn: If using a spray can of filler/primer.. make certain it is well shaken before spraying..
WOW!

[RJ Howell]

Yesterday was an off day. Raining like crazy and humid as all get up. Besides the replacement part for the washer came in and I had chores to do.. Life in the endless pursuit..

Today Brought on cutting out the other window and cutting out the hatch.



I started cutting up material to re-enforce the cut-outs and realized I was jumping ahead of myself.. I should first re-enforce those corners.







Using my knowledge of fragile materials, no inside corner should be sharp nor any edge un-sanded.. Time to slow down and use this accordingly.

Back to watching glue dry.. Man am I doing this a lot..

[zuren]

Subscribing to this thread!

My wife and I are in discussions to get rid of 2 of our 3 vehicles and replace them with a 1/2 ton, crew cab truck, with an undetermined bed length at this time (I want 6'+, wife wants a short box). I've been eyeing the popup truck caps (like this: https://campovrlnd.com/), but they are expensive (starting at $8200 for the 1/2 ton model) and they are basically a tin can of a shell. I've wondered about the DIY foamy route and your build is giving me some proof of concept.

Thanks!