T molding for drip edge

[Noc3]

I'm thinking of using T Moulding for my drip edge/bottom trim so as to further cover and protect the canvassed plywood end grain on the floor.


-Aluminum trim looks nice and strong but pricey. Also seems like Aluminum T extrusion could be cheaper and functionally the same as the "trim" sold at RV suppliers.

-Standard drip edge from the hardware store doesn't cover the end grain of the canvassed wood.

-I found this stuff and seems this polymer is good for withstanding UV, comes in a variety of colors and sizes:

https://pantherrvproducts.com/105-544-2 ... k-10-feet/

another source: https://www.t-molding.com


Then there is the shipping aspect, I'm curious how to find suppliers that are more local for the bigger ridged materials.

Any other trim suppliers or recommendations welcome.

[ghcoe]

I stay away from the plastic/vinyl type products for drip edges. They tend to warp real easy and don't look good to me.

I use drywall metal L bead like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-8-x-1- ... /100150464

and sharp point lathe screws like these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-8-x-1- ... /100150464 to install them. With the metal edging you can adjust it once it is installed to straighten it out if needed.

I align the beading with the edge and then just start the screws and let the beading rest on the screw head. Once I get it aligned I run a bead of Dap latex caulk between the L bead and the bottom of the trailer. I apply enough so that when I finish tightening the screw it will squish out and seal the beading to the trailer floor. Then just wipe off excess.

Something to think about on the edging is that a T mold will create a moisture trap between the outer wall and the T molding. It sounds good in theory to cover the end grain of the plywood, but in reality the paint will be enough as long as you get a good coat there.

Good luck! George.

[Noc3]

I ended up getting aluminum drip edge like this:




both edges are finished and look nice, unlike some I've seen with a corrugated edge. Thinking of using the long side against the walls and short side w beveled edge under the floor.

You make a good point about the potential moisture trap, I'm second guessing myself now. My plan was to fill the drip edge with caulk and essentially glue it in like you suggest, wasting a bit of caulk but filling the voids. Now I'm not sure, thinking of going back and getting the plain right angle drip edge.

[ghcoe]

I have thought of using that flashing as well. I think it would look real good if it could be done right. The biggest issue I can see is to try and get the flashing to lie flat against the body of the trailer without wrinkles. It might look good till you screw the bottom edge down. This usually causes some irregularities to the metal, especially when you have caulk behind it. Ideally, I think, it would be good just to glue it in place without screws. A good weather proof contact cement might work for that. I have not experimented with that yet since the L beading has worked fine so far.

[KCStudly]

I wouldn't flip the above pictured flashing.

It's the combination of the top lip and that little kicker lip that gets the water out and away. Unfortunately, in a non-sloped installation the top lip will also let water stand.

I would take some crimping pliers and fold the top lip down a bit, then fold the lower vertical back out to it's original vertical angle. That way the top lip would be sloping down, and the kicker lip would still be in play.