Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone try any idea for cheap flooring directly on 1.5 inches foam?

My heaviest family member is 250 lbs, it's a 4 feet Teardrop so they will never stand on it, however, they will be sitting and lying on a camping memory foam mattress.

Do you think Vinyl Sheet Flooring ok? what about upgrading to 2 inches foam? would that be good enough for Vinyl Sheet flooring?
What about eva foam puzzle flooring?

It would depend some on the foam. Mot EPS but XPS maybe in the stronger version. Even 1/8 (3 or 4 mm) paneling would work. And 1" foam no better than thicker if its on a floor as pictures show. Some people report fine with no foam in floor, just the mattress. Just put vinyl on your ply and mattress on top. Throw in an area rug for exposed floor. Go real inexpensive and just paint the ply. If you don't like it, install vinyl on later - sheet, tiles, or planks. Or those interlocking rubbery pads used fir play floors and exercise rooms.

Assuming the foam is fully supported from below, flat and strong, not spaced out support joists.

Compression strength is fantastic, all you need for the top layer is

protection from abrasion, and

puncture resistance, protect from say high heels rather than runners, 4-legged chair vs wheels

in other words, spreading out the PSI loads

1/4" ply even cheap rough will do

strong vinyl / linoleum,

horse stall mats if you want max durability

gym matting if you want more comfort, people take shoes off indoors

fake wood flooring for pretty, real would add too much weight IMO

...flooring directly on 1.5 inches foam?

Kim:

I build my floors with a 3/4" framework sheathed by 1/4" plywood on both sides and the voids are filled with foam board. So I can't directly help but they are strong enough to walk on.

What I'm curious about with a foam floor in a foamie is how you are planning on attaching the cabin to the chassis?

Tony

Hi Tony,
Thanks for your help.
Sorry if I was being too vague, I meant to have foam on top of my flatbed which is 1/2 inches thickness placed on a very solid and nicely spaced frame.

I do worry about the glued foam structure just blown off if not adhere correctly to the flat bed.
Since I observe that the flatbed is old (I bought it used) but in good condition (some peeling and chipping), I planed to have strips of 1/2 inches new plywood (4 inches wide) around the frame of the flatbed so the foam will sit on a new bed without adding another sheet of plywood on top of the old one.

So far, I like the idea of using eva foam directly on top of the old plywood bed the best. If it's too cold, we will consider adding foam board on top and another 1/4 inches, but ok for this summer I think.

Thanks,
Kim.

I do worry about the glued foam structure just blown off if not adhere correctly to the flat bed.

I'm still confused about how your foam cabin will be tied to your flatbed. Maybe I need another cup of coffee. With a wooden cabin, the floor is bolted to the chassis.



Tony

According to what I've seen online and tutorials, it's just wood glue to foam.

I actually have additional adhesive area because there is a 2x4 frame outside my flat bed that I can add another 1.5 inches strip of adhesive area to the wall.
I'm also cutting my 1/2 fly wood to strips of 2 inches long (nailed to the floor) and sandwich glue the foam between that outter frame and that strip.

Not sure if that's enough, that's why i need consultant lol.

According to what I've seen online and tutorials, it's just wood glue to foam.

I think you need mechanical fasteners --bolts-- set in plywood to attach the cabin to your chassis. But ask Glen. He knows foamies and I don't.

Tony

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the pointer, I will type up my overall plan in a post soon.
Watching George's video of his foamie bug out build, it seems he only glue the foam wall to the floor and the wood inner frame the he made.
https://youtu.be/Z7wo6-Z9amM?t=711



I'm open to do anything to secure my wall, just not sure what other ideas out there since it's foam and I can't use screw.
I have windows that need framing and thinking about embedded a 2X2 windows frame to floor into the foam, I think that will help keep the foam secure too... I'll type it up in a new post soon.

Thanks,
Kim.

I'm open to do anything to secure my wall...

I'm not talking about the walls. Yes, they get glued and then mechanically attached to the floor with a canvas wrap. But what it sounds like you are planning is a foam floor and I am wondering how you would secure the foam to the chassis. In the video link you provided the guy was attaching his walls to an OSB (ouch) floor which I assume he subsequently (mechanically) bolts to his chassis.

Last week, we were towing our teardrop into a forty-mile wind at 60 MPH. A 100-mile wind. So in a sense, we have to build these great campers to live through a hurricane.



You're doing some serious research so I'm sure you'll build a nice little camper.

Tony

Possibly some confusion? Another post by Kim has a photo of her trailer ( I think) which already has a ply deck firmly attached. It is a different starting point than we usually see.

http://tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=164996

Possibly some confusion?

Maybe a quart or two.

Tony

Hi Tony,

Thank you so much for your help.
I have described my plan here, maybe it could clear things up a bit?
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=73766

Thank you so much for your help.

Now I'm scratching my head and wondering how I helped you?

It'll be fun to watch your build come together.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

I'm open to do anything to secure my wall...

In the video link you provided the guy was attaching his walls to an OSB (ouch) floor which I assume he subsequently (mechanically) bolts to his chassis.

Nothing wrong with OSB if it is protected well. I have done quite a few water crossings with the floor totally submerged in the water as well as being stored outside for the last two years. No problems at all.