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Paint marine or auto or house

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 11:49 am
by Ron Dickey
I am about to paint my trailer now that it sits outside

what would you guys suggest.

I like Dougs rocketear it has auto paint. I thought of using airplain pant. One man suggesed Boat paint.

and suggestions and what brand works best.

Ron

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 2:25 pm
by jeepr
I have not pained a tear yet. But I plan on using marine paint when I do (unless someone has a legit reason not to). I have painted boats and it worked out well. I plan on sealing the wood with epoxy first.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:18 pm
by weasel
Our local hardware was sellin' out, everything 40% off. Got a gal. of Non-yellowing oil based enamel in bright white. $33 a gal for $18. Applied with a 3'' roller went great and has a texture. Washed and left in rain looks like it will hold good.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:21 pm
by Ron Dickey
Can anyone recomend any brand of Boat paint.

or auto paint.

and in so epoxing wood will paint still stick afterwards.

Ron D.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:29 pm
by jimqpublic
Ron-

There are boat paints designed to go over epoxy. West Marine has a whole aisle of such stuff. If you know someone with a commercial account at West Marine (called "Port Supply") they can get it way, way off list.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:39 am
by 57plymouth
For me, it's auto paint. It's easy to work with and you can cut and buff it to an insane gloss.

Of course, I'm an auto restorer, so this is all easy stuff for me. Witness me in work. Couldn't shoot and paint at the same time, so it's before and after:

http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_p ... d=IMG_8166

http://bacooper.myphotoalbum.com/view_p ... d=IMG_8171

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 10:06 am
by jimqpublic
My vote for boat paints was based on the "over epoxy" issue and my own limitations that I would be rolling it on. I'm used to painting the house, not cars.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:35 pm
by EZ
Ron, I painted my boat with house paint. I painted my tear with house paint. It's holding up well, but I think it was Doug who said "if you want it to look like a house, use house paint. Mine looks like a house.

Ed

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:11 pm
by TomW
I have not used it but I am planning to use Blue Water Marine, Silicone based deck paint. Information claims it dries 3 to 4 mils thick on each coat. A little pricey but if it holds up as well as it says, should be good stuff.

Google, Blue Water Marine Paints and you will get the website.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:45 pm
by Ron Dickey
I think that is what I am going to use porch or house paint of the best quality. I was told it should have Titaniaum Oxide in it.

I was told that you have to get a lot of practice in for Auto Paint and Boat paint seems to require a lot of Preping with harsh strong smelling epoxies.

Mike Shn... suggested porch paint.

But I am happy to see all the different answers and it will be helpful to those who have just started.

if you want to have it done with Auto Paint....
One member suggested preparing you trailer with epoxy.
Then go to an Auto body or Auto Painter and have it painted by a professional. They will do it right and you will not have to buy all that
equipment and save on pratice practice time too.

Ron D.

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:49 am
by jeepr
I don't know how well house paint levels, but there are marine paints designed for it. You roll or brush it on, there is a chemical reaction, and it gets glass smooth. I have done boats and they look like they were sprayed. That is the only reason I was thinking marine paint.

Paint

PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:49 pm
by dwe
I would think a good epoxy paint would be the best. Go to a Sherwin Williams store, they are experts on paint and would be willing to help in your decision

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:52 am
by doug hodder
I think your best option is the one that you can competently do that will give you the best protection. It's up to you. Automotive base/clear is more time and $$ intensive...but does give you more options for color, metallics, additives, and work times. I certainly wouldn't recommend anyone getting into this type of finish work if they don't have the equipment and experience. It could be an expensive learning curve. Not worth it on a one shot thing. There are lots of alternatives in the marine paints and some others that will certainly give a great finish at a lesser cost, that utilize a roller application. Just remember...the final finish is dependent on what you have done for prep work under it, regardless of what top coat you use. Doug

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:58 pm
by Oldragbaggers
We've been rebuilding derelict sailboats for 20+ years and have tried a few products. Our favorite, by far, for results and ease of use is Interlux Brightsides. It is a one-part polyurethane that goes on beautifully using the roll and tip method. We prefer it to a 2-part finish that has to be sprayed because it makes touch ups easier in our opinion. It is super high gloss, but they make a flattening agent to kill the gloss if you prefer that kind of finish.

We used it on our hulls and decks. The hulls came up alongside docks, had fenders banging on them, the decks got got walked and jumped on, had metal things dropped on them and kids spilling God knows what. A good scrubbing and they were beautiful again. A very hard, durable coating that comes in lots of nice colors. (No, I don't work for them.)

Since it's what we know, we will be building our teardrop much the same as we would build our boats. We figure if it will work in the marine environment, it should work in the campground, right?

Becky

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:14 pm
by planovet
I used Valspar supreme acrylic enamel on my tear.

It's used on trailers and it's the paint that they used on my trailer when I had it built. I used it on my tear because I wanted the colors to match.

It's a very durable paint.