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The walls of my t or ttt are ....

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 11:16 am
by Ron Dickey
I am about to endeavor in starting my walls :o

:( and I thought which way is best.

so I thought which way do most of them go.

I want to go out in all weathers.

I at this time am not conserned with the outside skin
be it alum. , paint, fiberglass, or other
Just the solid part.

insolation is an option and maybe a different poll.

SIP

PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 4:15 pm
by dtrdwngfn
Mine is planned to be made like a Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) home It will have 1/4 inch ply on the outside, 2 inches foam insulation, 1/4 inch oak ply on the inside. All components will be glued together to make it tight. The ouside will then be fiberglassed and painted to match my tow vehicle.

PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 4:37 pm
by mikeschn
If you're winter camping, insulate for sure.... I chose the option with 2 skins and a frame in the middle!

Mike...

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:17 pm
by cracker39
I haven't built it yet, but the sides will have a 5.2mm luan outside skin and 1/8" or 3/16" inside skin, with framing inbetween. the inside skin may be plywood, or most likely, light oak woodgrain or white sheet paneling from HD. Or maybe both, Oak on the walls, white on the ceiling.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:36 pm
by Arne
Current, and only, is 1/4 inside and out, 3/4 inch framing.... (if there is a) next one will be 1/8 in and out... might go to 1 inch framing and insul to keep rigidity.

I painted my interior, light yellow walls, off white ceiling/wall... I guess wood could be okay, but not sure it would be light enough.... I like light colors.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:52 pm
by Spadinator
Mine will be 4 mil corroplast inside and out with a wooden frame and insulation in between. Although the interior ceiling will be 2 mil corroplast. The plan is still on the drawing board...I hope to start building soon.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 3:11 pm
by davel
Mike wrote:
If you're winter camping, insulate for sure...


Don't think of insulation as only a winter neccessity. We have camped in some loud campgrounds and the insulation really blocks out the noise. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:34 pm
by cracker39
Spadinator wrote:Mine will be 4 mil corroplast inside and out with a wooden frame and insulation in between. Although the interior ceiling will be 2 mil corroplast. The plan is still on the drawing board...I hope to start building soon.


I Googled corroplast and it seems to be primarily for signs and packaging. How did you find it for your use, and what size sheets or rolls does it come in? How is it attached to the TD? It appears to be virtually resistant to anything you'd encounter on the road except maybe impact.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:13 pm
by Spadinator
Corroplast comes in 4X8 sheets and as thick as 10 mil. I use it primarily for building RC airplanes. The stuff is virtually indestructible. I have flow my RC plane through a set of tree branches (on accident) with out any damage. It generally cost about 10-12 dollars for 4mil and 8-9 dollars for 2 mil. There is a place locally here in Utah that i get it. I will glue and screw it to the frame and seal the seams with plain old clear silicone.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:28 pm
by cracker39
Spadinator wrote:Corroplast comes in 4X8 sheets and as thick as 10 mil. I use it primarily for building RC airplanes. The stuff is virtually indestructible. I have flow my RC plane through a set of tree branches (on accident) with out any damage. It generally cost about 10-12 dollars for 4mil and 8-9 dollars for 2 mil. There is a place locally here in Utah that i get it. I will glue and screw it to the frame and seal the seams with plain old clear silicone.


That's $10-$12 for a 4'x8' sheet of 2mil? Is the 4 mil rigid enough to use without a skin beneath it? And is the finish matt, satin, or glossy? I need to look into this.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 6:23 pm
by Spadinator
10-12 bucks for 4 mil (.157inches). I was planning on using wood paneling for interior walls and 2 mil for the ceiling. the entire outer skin will be 4 mil. If you had a pretty rigid framing beneath the 4 mil it would work. The stuff is not rigid enough to stand on it's own. When you have elections around your town...ask the losing candidates if you could have their large signs. They will usually give them to you. DON'T STEAL THEM THOUGH :shock:

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:09 pm
by bledsoe3
I used 1/2 ply with 3/4 framing, insulation and 1/8 luan inner skin. That is standard. Then I skinned the outside with another sheet of 1/8 luan. It makes the outside very clean. No putty, screws or football plugs. Look here,http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=3161 and here. http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=3296

PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:48 am
by kartvines
1 sheet of 1/2 plywood
1 sheet of 1/8 laun
1 sheet of 1/8 interior panelling = 3/4"

PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 4:21 pm
by asianflava
One problem I see with using cloroplast is that the strength is unidirectional. It is only rigid in one direction. Are you going to laminate them like plywood?

PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 4:57 pm
by Spadinator
The coroplast flutes will run vertically on the exterior walls with wood paneling on the inside and of course framing in between. The flutes for the roof will run horizontally. It should be plenty strong. I have built many things out of it with little trouble. The main strength will be carried by the framing with one foot centers. Oh I forgot to mention coro only weighs 5 lbs ber sheet and my trailer is going to be a copy of the Knaus Caravan (the little red trailer).