lets talk about the best way to keep our teardrops dry

[jonw]

Maybe I'm missing something, but why not just use aluminum for the front-roof-rear panels? It bends easily, is not difficult to work with, not terribly expensive (compared to other metals or marine ply), is low maintenance, and is certainly weather-tite when caulked well under the edge molding and around any cutouts (like a roof fan/vent).

I always though it was one of the more brilliant aspects of teardrop campers...

[RAYVILLIAN]

Here is a couple of pics of the way I did the hinge on the new Winter Warrior. It is a collapsible irrigation hose that I got from a farm supply store and seems to still be good after 1 1/2 yrs. It leaked a bit at first but turned out to just be the sealer that I used on the edges. Hasn't leaked since I resealed it. I wish I could say the same for the plastic hinge I used on the from tongue box hatch, I still haven't gotten it not to leak but I think that is due to the way I made it.





Hope that this helps.

Gary

[working on it]

To seal my body to hatch gap, I'll do as Rayvillian (and Bobhenry and some others) have done, but with a slightly different material. I was going to use a scrapped conveyor belt (12" wide, 50" long) but it had microscopic pinhuoles everywhere. So, I'm getting a 6"x 50' (or 75' )roll of butyl rubber/polyester/adhesive backed flashing tape. I'll double layer it (90 mil x 2) , attach it directly over the polyurethane/enamel painted surface, then mount my external hinges (3) and supplemental aluminum flat stock to secure the edges. I am also planning to use it as extra external edge-sealing insurance on leading or vertically oriented plywood edges. I was anly able to find a few references as to its being used here by others, but I'm willing to be a Guinea Pig for testing it further.

[RAYVILLIAN]

Actually I think that the hurricane style hinge should work fine in most Teardrop style hatches. The Warrior is a different animal in that the roof is almost flat where the hinge is and it has to be water proof from both directions when the hatch is up. I used a hurricane hinge on the first and found out that they aren't water proof in both directions. Solved that problem with a piece of angle on the back side of the hinge to act as a gutter when the hatch was up. I did our second one this way because I had a 6' heavy piano hinge that came from a house trailer that I help demolish and wanted to use because the price was right.

Gary

[mikeschn]

I'll be using a stainless steel piano hinge also, like you said, it has to be waterproof from both sides.

I'm thinking about a adhesive backed EDPM type roofing material to go over the hinge, with aluminum strips on both sides of the EDPM to keep it there.

Mike...

[Oldragbaggers]

I have also seen a build journal where someone used a regular piano hinge but then covered it with rubber (I think they opened up a bicycle innertube, but sheet or roll rubber is available for cheap on eBay). The rubber covered the piano hinge and was held down on both edges with a metal trim piece. The trim piece didn't need any sealant because the rubber also served as gasketing. I may be tempted to go that route if I don't use the hurricane hinge.

(Oooops....I just read Mike's post a little better and realized he was saying the exact same thing. Sorry Mike!!)

[101camper]

Those of you that have seen my giant teardrop delaminating, know why I started this section. To make our teardrops last longer!!!

From a minimalist tarp covering the teardrop, to the dedicated heated teardrop alcove, and everything in-between, lets talk about the best way to keep our teardrops out of the rain and lasting a long time!!!

Mike...

A carport will keep most of the water and UV off of your teardrops during the 340 days/year that most are not used. Inexpensive ($699 in 2004), rotproof, hurricane tolerable, and a dry, shaded workspace for the "messy" parts of the build that you may not want in the garage.

[canned o minimum]

I took one a them tube framed car ports and took a pipe cutter to ALL of it so it is low,narrow and short enuf jus fer the teardrop and then skinned the thing with aluminum PERFECT ! When I go camping, I use the easy up style cover over the trailer si she never gits wet !

[prohandyman]

As a hobby builder that now builds for a living, I have had a fair share of trial and errors with waterproofing. Which is the Number 1 problem for campers of all kinds!!! And I have seen almost every type of leak possible with repairing campers for customers as well. I also direct alot of people to this website for information. Mike thanks again for starting the thread and the forum.
Here is my techniques...
Wood...I do not mess around with the various methods of diluting urethanes. If it is wood, it gets epoxy resin, an all sides before and after installing. Period. Several builds out there with wood trim of some kind, and not one has wood rot. I did have a customer that requested marine paint, and has several leak issues, and is destined for repair. My personal camper, the Touring Lodge, has been stored under a metal carport since completion 5 years ago. Wood strips, wood trim, Does see rain obviously when traveling, and the only wood issues is the roof rack, which I coated with a diluted urethane, and shows sign of blackening, which is water intrusion. Some slats with straight urethane, some with spar varnish, some with spar urethane, all with signs of water intrusion. Remember...stored out of the weather!
Aluminum...yes aluminum is water proof, but you have to seam it somewhere. And guess what...it is always the seams where water gets in. Either around the windows, roof to sides seam, roof vents seams, etc. Very few if any campers were ever stored indoors in the 40's, 50's and 60's, and when I get one of these in for repairs, the water damage is always around these areas. Sealing at the factory was almost always with putty tape. Great for a couple of years at most, which got the units out of warranty, then it dries out, and leaks. 100% silicone does well, lasts for several years, but does work loose after a while. Sikaflex, a high quality sealant, is my product of choice. Several varieties, and all work fabulous! A little pricey, but hey...your camper is worth it. What do most people consider the "Cadillac" of this teardrop business...the Camp-Inn...they use Sikaflex. And nothing else.
Also, Eterna-Bond sealants and seam seal tape. Very good, and very permanent. Don't put the tape where you don't want it. Used by Class A coach repair shops.
I just tore down a factory built camper last week. Had the most unbelievable sealant along the seams. We had to pry and chisel, and cut it to get the pieces apart. Destroyed the aluminum pieces it held so well. And guess what...water damage on most wood underneath.
Don't forget Gravity. Water may run off your roof and down the sides and ends, but..if it has a place to stop and sit...that is probably where it will find a way in!
Finally, in my mind, there is no substitute for a fixed, dry storage. A carport, garage, lean-to, etc. A tarp is just asking for trouble. They let the moisture in, and trap it against the surface, causing issues. Also, some tarps cause a chemical reaction with the metal, and can dis-color it terribly.
Just my experience and opinions!!

[wired]

I plan on using both a cover as well as designing a "lean to" type canopy using the "Canopy Design Tool" at Creative Shelters
http://www.creativeshelters.com/
The canopy will attach to the ends of my rafters extending from the roof on the side of my house and slope down to about 6' high on the short side. It should channel all the water off into the field next door...

[mikeschn]

I wonder if a garage type roof could be designed, that could bolt onto the top of the teardrop for the 50 weeks a year that you are not camping. In theory a bolt on roof would not be subject to the constraints of the village, that allow a maximum shed of 10 x 12 feet. Hey, that might work!!!

Mike...

[Larry C]

As a hobby builder that now builds for a living, I have had a fair share of trial and errors with waterproofing. Which is the Number 1 problem for campers of all kinds!!! And I have seen almost every type of leak possible with repairing campers for customers as well. I also direct alot of people to this website for information. Mike thanks again for starting the thread and the forum.
Here is my techniques...
Wood...I do not mess around with the various methods of diluting urethanes. If it is wood, it gets epoxy resin, an all sides before and after installing. Period. Several builds out there with wood trim of some kind, and not one has wood rot. I did have a customer that requested marine paint, and has several leak issues, and is destined for repair. My personal camper, the Touring Lodge, has been stored under a metal carport since completion 5 years ago. Wood strips, wood trim, Does see rain obviously when traveling, and the only wood issues is the roof rack, which I coated with a diluted urethane, and shows sign of blackening, which is water intrusion. Some slats with straight urethane, some with spar varnish, some with spar urethane, all with signs of water intrusion. Remember...stored out of the weather!
Aluminum...yes aluminum is water proof, but you have to seam it somewhere. And guess what...it is always the seams where water gets in. Either around the windows, roof to sides seam, roof vents seams, etc. Very few if any campers were ever stored indoors in the 40's, 50's and 60's, and when I get one of these in for repairs, the water damage is always around these areas. Sealing at the factory was almost always with putty tape. Great for a couple of years at most, which got the units out of warranty, then it dries out, and leaks. 100% silicone does well, lasts for several years, but does work loose after a while. Sikaflex, a high quality sealant, is my product of choice. Several varieties, and all work fabulous! A little pricey, but hey...your camper is worth it. What do most people consider the "Cadillac" of this teardrop business...the Camp-Inn...they use Sikaflex. And nothing else.
Also, Eterna-Bond sealants and seam seal tape. Very good, and very permanent. Don't put the tape where you don't want it. Used by Class A coach repair shops.
I just tore down a factory built camper last week. Had the most unbelievable sealant along the seams. We had to pry and chisel, and cut it to get the pieces apart. Destroyed the aluminum pieces it held so well. And guess what...water damage on most wood underneath.
Don't forget Gravity. Water may run off your roof and down the sides and ends, but..if it has a place to stop and sit...that is probably where it will find a way in!
Finally, in my mind, there is no substitute for a fixed, dry storage. A carport, garage, lean-to, etc. A tarp is just asking for trouble. They let the moisture in, and trap it against the surface, causing issues. Also, some tarps cause a chemical reaction with the metal, and can dis-color it terribly.
Just my experience and opinions!!

Dan,
I am glad to see someone that actually takes apart various trailers, and gets to see why they have leak problems. I have always been a proponent of Epoxy for many uses, but I am glad to see someone else thinks epoxy should be applied to all wood surfaces. Come join us at this thread http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=49361 We are a group that likes epoxy & glass for building. Your epoxy sealing methods would be very welcome...

Larry

[mezmo]

Hey Mikeschn, I think your proposal/idea has a lot of merit!

I've often wondered about mounting brackets at the 4 "corner" positions on the
upper side walls of a TD/TTT and use them to attach/support a "second roof"
of canvas or even better, a reflective fabric/film/surface, to use to provide shade
and sun protection when in use. You could use just fabric in tension or a light
framework for the covering of bendable fiberglass poles/rods or small diameter
EMT galvanized tubing for a frame and have it overhang the sides and ends some.

This idea could be expanded and be made even stronger by utilizing hitch receivers
mounted at each corner of the TD/TTT frame/chassis [Was it OasisMaker <please correct if wrong -
just going from memory on that with no time to research it> who originally came
up with the extra hitch receivers idea to use as awning attachment points?] to carry
rigid posts [and their mounts] up to a point [say 6-8ins] above the roof line at which
you could then attach the light weight over-frame and its covering. These could easily
be made demountable to be used when camping if so desired, and then erected and
left up when wanted/needed for storage purposes. When storing, you could attach side
panels of your choice also for any sun or wind driven protection desired etc.. It'd eliminate
problems with surface contact of covers and tarps and ensure a full cocoon of protected
air surrounding the TD/TTT under it's 'second roof' and side skins if they are also used.
[Just make sure there is a bottom member attached to and between the corner hitch receiver
lower attachment brackets for the bottoms of side panels to attach to.]

You could easily utilize some of those temporary garage/canopy fittings/connectors if you
were to use the galvanized electrical conduit/chain link fence tubes for the various supports
and second roof frame.

Just my thoughts on your good idea...

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[Shadow Catcher]

Mike Yes PahaQue makes custom covers and most anything else you can think of related. http://www.pahaquecustom.com

[mikeschn]

Mike Yes PahaQue makes custom covers and most anything else you can think of related. http://www.pahaquecustom.com

Kewl! Tucked that one under my hat!

Mike...