Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Sounds very similar to the lagging compound discussed in the foamie section.

My 1996 popup camper has a chipboard floor, exposed to elements, almost 20 years old, and not a single sign of rot to be had. Totally rock solid, and stored outside most of the time.

I think I'm going to be in the "less is more" camp and do some good exterior house paint on my bottom. Probably from the $5 mis-tint section at Lowe's...cause that's how I roll.

I just stumbled onto this thread...very interesting! Before finding this forum I had purchased plans for a TD. Instructions indicated using the automotive spray undercoating, as I recall 6 cans for a 4x8. I like the sound of this window flashing stuff tho...think I may go that route!

Lee
About to start my build of a 5x8!!

Found this a long time ago and used it this weekend as we started our vintage camper rebuild. It works perfectly...thank you.

I plan to use the textured stuff you see under the paint, along inner fenders and rocker panels of european cars... It's known in our business as WÜRTH "BODY SCHUTZ" (no, Colonel, not SchuLtz...)

It comes in tin bottles and is applied with the available spray gun and compressor air pressure. It'll stick to everything, is sound deadening, flexible, hardens enough to paint over and seals cracks, gaps and bad deals... It ain't cheap, but hey... I like to use what the pros use. IT WORKS! Oh yeah,,, very, very stone resistant. It is applied over painted surfaces... primer is fine. You do not have to paint it after application, but you can.

May cost 75-100 to cover the underside of a 5x10, but for my project, well worth the cost. Leave the roofing materials to the roofers. We have road debris to deal with.

Did I mention it was water based?

Jenn Morgan

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth- ... -seal.html

http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth- ... r-gun.html

I saw this post a long time ago and used this stuff the other day other when we laid the floor down. Great, great, idea!

Great posting

I just happen to work about 2 miles from a wurth trade counter here in the uk!

You can get it in an aerosol with an applicator gun too, in case you don't have a spray gun or don't want the hassle of cleaning black goo out of it

I used this on my third trailer with poor results. As soon as I got it into hot weather, the stuff turned loose and sagged where it wasn't trapped by cross members. Now on the fourth build and I won't be using it

atomaker wrote:I used this on my third trailer with poor results. As soon as I got it into hot weather, the stuff turned loose and sagged where it wasn't trapped by cross members. Now on the fourth build and I won't be using it

Which 'stuff' are you speaking of?

I used the brush-on asphalt 'sticky' black stuff on the underside of my floor assembly when building in 2006. It dried overnight with NO residual smell or stickiness. I then insulated the underside of the floor with 1" Dow 'blueboard'. Almost 8yrs & 22K plus miles later in weather from Louisiana to California thru the desert southwest & over the Rocky Mountains I've had absolutely no problems except for a separation of the plywood where the wheelwells joined the floor, & that was strictly my fault due to construction method. I repaired that & re-sealed with automotive spray undercoating in 2011 & it has served well thru today...

Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Southern-Pine-Asphalt-Impregnated-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

Zac2Smart wrote:Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Southern-Pine-Asphalt-Impregnated-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

I think it's gross overkill and could be a mess –sooner or later– especially when it gets hot.

I'm in the camp that believes the floor isn't the weekest spot when it comes to moisture. There are lots of ways to seal a camper floor. I'm one that uses epoxy to seal it. The old black goo works great. I haven't used it but old 'drops (that have been treated with the stuff) don't lie. TB2 should work fine too. Or perhaps "The Mix" of thinned polyurethane.

Remember, you bolt the floor to the chassis. The walls and front of the teardrop neede to be structurally attached to the floor. And to me, that means glueing and screwing. I don't believe there is any glue that will stick to that stuff.

Tony

While I did find adhesive that would work (for normal asphalt at least) http://terrecon.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Survivorgrip_Brochure.pdf and is also super $$$, You do have a very good point I should keep in mind, I'm not building a tank!

Thanks

tony.latham wrote:

Zac2Smart wrote:Was wondering if anyone had used this for the bottom floor. It's what I'm planning on using for an upcoming build. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Southern-Pine-Asphalt-Impregnated-Board-A11230848096/206086210?N=5yc1vZbqm7

I think it's gross overkill and could be a mess –sooner or later– especially when it gets hot.

I'm in the camp that believes the floor isn't the weekest spot when it comes to moisture. There are lots of ways to seal a camper floor. I'm one that uses epoxy to seal it. The old black goo works great. I haven't used it but old 'drops (that have been treated with the stuff) don't lie. TB2 should work fine too. Or perhaps "The Mix" of thinned polyurethane.

Remember, you bolt the floor to the chassis. The walls and front of the teardrop neede to be structurally attached to the floor. And to me, that means glueing and screwing. I don't believe there is any glue that will stick to that stuff.

Tony

tony, how much epoxy did you use? how many coats? I'm tempted to put a coat of epoxy on my floor to seal against the elements. I have 1.5 gallons from Raka and have little experience beyond JB weld. the added benefit of epoxying my floor is that I can learn on that before I screw up a visible wall...

Several years ago I used 2 part epoxy paint on an outdoor 10 story emergency staircase.
Once mixed, that stuff is rather thick and began curing in about 45 minutes.
I would guess the realistic flat spread would be 1 qt. for about 40 sq. ft., pre-sealed material dependent.

I'm unsure of the material mentioned here, never used it. Hopefully the stuff I used helps figure yours.
As usual, mix a small amount and test.

LeeOrlando2 wrote:I just stumbled onto this thread...very interesting! Before finding this forum I had purchased plans for a TD. Instructions indicated using the automotive spray undercoating, as I recall 6 cans for a 4x8. I like the sound of this window flashing stuff tho...think I may go that route!

Lee
About to start my build of a 5x8!!

I like window flashing ... for window flashing. I've used this stuff a lot, and it doesn't stick well to wood over time. And like the other poster mentioned, it can delaminate from the substrate under heat. You might be able to fix that with LOTS of staples ?? But, I say, just coat it with your favorite paint/epoxy/asphalt finish and be done with it