Initial questions

Finishes, paints and coatings

Initial questions

Postby Tempest » Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:31 pm

Hello, Done a good bit of reading and have some (many) questions.

TBII- water resistant
TBIII- water proof (supposedly)
Why do the majority use TBII?

Does 10oz canvas have advantages over 8 oz canvas? Once set and dried, will PMF (canvas and TB) flex over rugged terrain without damage?

Tempest
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Re: Initial questions

Postby tony.latham » Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:47 pm

Tempest wrote:Hello, Done a good bit of reading and have some (many) questions.

TBII- water resistant
TBIII- water proof (supposedly)
Why do the majority use TBII?

Does 10oz canvas have advantages over 8 oz canvas? Once set and dried, will PMF (canvas and TB) flex over rugged terrain without damage?

Tempest


I'm not a canvass guy, but I use (mostly) TB2 over TB3 ––when gluing wood–– because according to TB, you can glue TB2 to TB2 but TB3 doesn't stick to TB3.

Tony
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Re: Initial questions

Postby Andrew Herrick » Sat Oct 08, 2016 12:46 pm

10oz canvas has a thicker weave than 8oz canvas. Once you get into numbered canvases (#10, #12, etc.), then you get double-fill canvas, which has a tighter weave. They are stiffer and more durable. The thicker the weave, the less you have to worry about water intrusion and rock damage.

If you're using the PMF technique, double-fill canvas will also require less paint to fill in. So although it's more expensive initially, you might save money and time because of fewer paint coats.
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Re: Initial questions

Postby Tempest » Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:43 pm

Thank you for the replies!
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