Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

The width of my trailer ended up being 61.5 inches wide. It is the only width that makes sense to fit a queen size bed that is 60 inches wide. This is my first build and there is a steep learning curve for things I haven't considered. How would you suggest I skin the trailer with aluminum if the widest I can find is 60 inches wide. Should I just put more seams in it and run the aluminum in the other direction. Please give me some insight. Thanks in advance for your knowledge.

Unless you have access to 102-inch-wide semi-truck aluminum roll roofing (check with local truck n' trailer repair shops), I'd say your best bet is to purchase 4x12 or 5x12 aluminum online (check SAF or Ryerson) and split them in half. In my personal opinion, horizontal seams look much better than vertical seams. Pop-rivet the seams using blind aluminum rivets and waterproof the backside of the seam with waterproofing tape. It's laborious, but at this point, it's your only option if you want to use lightweight aluminum sheet

Andrew Herrick wrote:Unless you have access to 102-inch-wide semi-truck aluminum roll roofing (check with local truck n' trailer repair shops), I'd say your best bet is to purchase 4x12 or 5x12 aluminum online (check SAF or Ryerson) and split them in half. In my personal opinion, horizontal seams look much better than vertical seams. Pop-rivet the seams using blind aluminum rivets and waterproof the backside of the seam with waterproofing tape. It's laborious, but at this point, it's your only option if you want to use lightweight aluminum sheet

Thanks for your insight. i agree a horizontal seam will look better. What type of type specifically are you suggesting to use?

You mean what type of seam? I'd almost always say a pop-riveted seam ...

... upon re-reading your reply, you may have intended to write "tape" instead of "type." So with that in mind: If you're taping the backside of the seam, obviously, you only get one shot for the life of the camper. So it needs to be tough stuff. Most EternaBond tapes work well. EternaBond even makes RoofSeal Plus, which has thicker sealant, which would help to waterproof around the rivets. Other good tape manufacturers include Co-Fair, Nashua, 3M, etc. 3M 4412N is supposed to be pretty good. I think you can buy a 5-yrd roll on Amazon. It's pricey stuff, but again - you only get one shot. Of course, thoroughly wipe down the work surfaces with isopropyl alcohol before application.

I think tapes are a good use for this application because, unlike a caulk, you don't have to worry as much about thermal cycling, cracking, etc.

Yes I was referring to tape. Thanks again for all of your insight and experience!

3M VHB tape is the bomb. Feel free to call 3M for recommendations, though. There are over two dozen variations of VHB tape, some recommended for glass, some wood, some metal, etc. I forget which kind I used. Thicker is better - at least 45 mil. Like Danny, I've had good luck with 3M tapes, but it does come with some caveats. You have to wait 24-36 hours after application before mounting your aluminum, and they are at higher risk for failure on sharp (<18 inch radius) curves due to cleavage stresses.

A properly prepared adhesive bond is just as good as pop-riveted seam. A pop-riveted seam is just a little less finicky to DIY construct and easier to repair, though. Good luck!

halfdome, Danny wrote:I use the foam tape on the roof.
Danny
https://www.uline.com/BL_6040/3M-VHB-4950-Foam-Tape?keywords=vhb+tape

Which 3M VHB tape do you use, Danny?