QueticoBill wrote:It can work, and think I've seen some pics. Stick framing or cut out plywood? Plywood on interior or something else?
Pmullen503 wrote:Why not sheathe with plywood? Even 1/8" luan sheathing adds tremendous rigidity.
Something to think about as well, when you are towing during a rain storm, water finds every gap. So plan accordingly. If no insulation, backside of siding open so it can dry, then ok. If not, give some thought to how any water that leaks past the siding can get back out.
Wendellnla wrote:My plans are to build a light weight “Canned Ham” style “standy” that will pull easily behind a mid size suv/crossover. We currently have a Subaru Tribeca that is rated to tow 1,000 lbs w/o trailer brakes/3,500 lbs with.
Hoping to hear from anyone who has some experience using cedar as siding.
Concerning siding, I want to use cedar fence pickets on the sides and the flat surfaces on the front and rear to create a unique look. The roof (and most likely the front and rear radiuses) would be 1/4” plywood with PMF or fiberglass mat and epoxy. I may try to cover the radiuses, front and rear with cedar siding, but not sure if it is a good idea.
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My concern is that a travel trailer may flex more then a truck camper and without solid sheeting, the integrity of the structure may suffer.
The idea is to plane the pickets to 1/2”, true up the long edges, rip them to a standard dimension, dado the long edges and short edges as needed, to create a ship lap siding.
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TimC wrote:After refinish in 2020
Finish your exterior walls flat on the bench. Let the finish soak in. First application was several coats of 50:50 Spar varnish:mineral spirits. Then several coats at 75:25. Then two coats 100%. Sealed any exposed end grain including end grain not exposed to highway wind/rain with skin coat of 100% silicone. Then waxed entire side walls.
Inspect, inspect, inspect. Monthly, yearly for any problem areas. There will be some. Regular inspections will eliminate blemishes from becoming problems.
Refinished once (2020) since original build in 2016. Spar varnish cut 50:50 with mineral spirits. Then 75:25, then 100%. It wasn't necessarily needed but I was doing a paint color change on roof and did a complete job.
Stored under cover most of the year.
There's a reason they stopped making woodie automobiles. The average auto owner is terrible with routine maintenance. But if you love wood and don't mind the maintenance go for it.
If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.
tony.latham wrote:If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.
I concur. Fiberglass/epoxy and spar varnish. Bulletproof and lightweight.
Tony
Wendellnla wrote:[/qoute]curious how
much weight glass and epoxy will add to the cedar. Naked 1/2” cedar weighs close to same as 1/4” ply.
Thanks for the input.
Regards
Wendellnla wrote:...
Concerning refinish, what prep work did you need to do? I was leaning towards a non varnish finish to avoid the need to sand or scrap old finish off.
Hand sanded with a sanding block and used a small scraper to scrape out bits that were flaking away (not much). I really just needed to scratch the surface to get the new finish to adhere. Again, regular maintenance made refinishing easy. Neglected maintenance makes for a big task. Cleaned with mild detergent. Refinished. Not as easy on vertical walls compared to original build with walls laying down but doable.
During build, how did you attach cedar to exterior? Over time plywood sheathing or direct to studs?
Walls were 1X laying flat. Rigid foam insulation. 1/4" ply on outside and planks were glued (TBII) and brad nailed to the ply. Then finished laying flat on trailer bed.
Nice looking trailer btw!
Thanks, I like it. There are arguably better ways to do this (just listen to the epoxy fans). I just prefer not working with epoxy. A personal preference. I recognize that fiberglass may result in a more waterproof build but I have had no problems and I like the ease of PMF.
tony.latham wrote:If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.
I concur. Fiberglass/epoxy and spar varnish. Bulletproof and lightweight.
Tony
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