KCStudly wrote:can you slide a thin filet knife or recip saw blade in there to cut the glue stalactites?
Weirdnerd wrote:On this problem, you need to make a hook with an old hack saw blade and pull the dried up glue with it, is is thin enough to do a good job, then you can use a syringe to inject wood glue and clamp it, it will do wonders.
Weirdnerd wrote: ... I normally use what is called a "chip chaser" ...
KCStudly wrote:I've never had much luck pushing glue thru a syringe...
not starting in the middle of a tool path and broke up my g-code into single features. Then, to avoid long travels to the place cutting was going to happen, I squared-up near the cut and ran a small piece of G-code. That's how I got the cuts done that you see above. Those cuts were only one axis, so once the machine is square, you're good to go. I am reluctant to cut the roofline curve and spar pockets until things get straightened out a bit with the computer/machine interface.mikeschn wrote:I hate starting in the middle of a toolpath.
dustboy wrote:As long as you get your feeds and speeds right, you shouldn't have any broken bits.
dustboy wrote:We have a Camaster 4x8 in my cabinet shop. In CA our worker's comp runs about $650/mo for one guy, which incidentally is the same as a monthly payment on a 5-year lease, so it was a no-brainer. It mostly cuts nested cabinet parts out of 3/4" prefinished maple ply. Now and then we get a project with some weird curves or angles, and it is great for that too.
The first thing I did after getting it setup in was crash a $70 CMT compression bit into the steel frame...the Z-axis belt jumped a tooth somehow and I didn't realize it. Fortunately that hasn't happened again.
I've learned to check and double check, and anytime I'm not sure, my finger is over the "STOP" button!
dustboy wrote:... anytime I'm not sure, my finger is over the "STOP" button!
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