Light switch location for porch and inside ceiling lights?

[Esteban]

I'm wondering where is the most convenient location for the light switches that control your outside porch light(s) and the interior cabin ceiling lights? These are not switches for reading lights at the head of the bed.

At first I think they may be most convenient to be near the door handles. Easy to reach if you are entering or getting out of the teardrop. It might be an uncomfortable reach if you are in bed.

A second idea, which I think I saw someone here do, is to have the light switches above the door, or even in the ceiling above the door.

My teardrop will be a 5'x10 Benroy. The opening (door handle) side of the doors will be about 56" from the inside front of the cabin. The light switches I will use are Frilight Dual Euro 48602 Rocker Marine Rocker Switches from SailorSams.com. For porch lights I'll probably use small LED License Plate Lights from DelCity.net.

[working on it]

At first I think they may be most convenient to be near the door handles. Easy to reach if you are entering or getting out of the teardrop. It might be an uncomfortable reach if you are in bed.

A second idea, which I think I saw someone here do, is to have the light switches above the door, or even in the ceiling above the door.

Probably not like my function over form set-up, but here it is: I put a switch hanging in the front/center of my cabin, easily reached from either door.

hanging%20light%20switch.jpg (46.87 KiB) Viewed 3606 times

It is connected to the overhead set of 12vdc LEDs, which are "always" connected to the battery (bypassing the interior cut-off, but not the master). Never have to hunt for a light. I also have exterior/waterproof LED strip lighting (on the frame under each door), also 12vdc, with momentary-on switches ((mounted above each door), to light the ground before one steps out at night (don't like stepping on reptiles...)

Photo200c.JPG (133.57 KiB) Viewed 3606 times

[48Rob]

Steve,

Whatever is close or handy inside works well, but something to consider is also having an exterior switch.

There are times when the outside light is on while you go for a walk, or whatever, and you come back to ten thousand swarming inscects, which if you open the door will pester you inside all night long.
Being able to kill the light before opening the door can be a very good thing!

Rob

[bobhenry]

I placed mine high beside the latch side of the door. It requires opening the door only wide enough to flip the switch. You will note there is a flip switch for the ac and a turn switch for the dc. A bit lower on the wall is the same ac / dc setup for the little lantern mounted on the wall. We sleep head to the galley wall so the switches are an easy reach while lying down sleeping.

There is an identical set up on the other side of the trailer for his and hers convenience lite and porch lite. I think it is a great setup and has worked well for us.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Have you considered remote switches with key fobs? This particular setup will control four sets of lights....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-4-channels- ... 5d342d8814

This one will just do two sets...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-2-channels- ... 58&vxp=mtr

They're very simple to wire, then you can keep your remote fob on your trailer keys and have the switch handy all the time.

[Esteban]

Have you considered remote switches with key fobs? This particular setup will control four sets of lights....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-4-channels- ... 5d342d8814

This one will just do two sets...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-2-channels- ... 58&vxp=mtr

They're very simple to wire, then you can keep your remote fob on your trailer keys and have the switch handy all the time.

Never considered anything like this, Zach. Not sure I feel confident enough to attempt to do it. A remote control to turn lights on and off so they do not attract bugs like Rob brought up could be nice, and help to save power if out for a longer walk. I kinda/sorta like the idea. Nice, but not necessary. I have considered putting extra (maybe blue or red) lights under the trailer below the side doors and the galley. A remote could make that more useful. Is it complicated to do it?

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Those units are very easy to install. Actually no harder than a regular switch, since you'd have to run a positive and negative wire anyway.

Each black box is the control for each channel. Each box has 4 wires:

RED - positive from battery
BLACK - negative to battery
WHITE - positive to light
BLUE - antennae wire (no connection)

Then the negative wire of the light fixture simply gets tied in to the black wire (-) of the black box, (which is tied into battery negative)

You can stash the little black box wherever you can fit it, as long as you can get power to it. Then from the black box you can run your white wire and a negative wire to your light fixture.

[Esteban]

Zach, I think my wiring plans may be changed due to your input. I do like the idea of lights under the trailer that could be controlled by a key fob remote. I will have multiple keys for the trailer for the coupler lock, hitch pin, tongue box, side doors and galley locks. A trailer key fob will be neded to keep them together. One that can also remotely turn on/off exterior lights would be very handy for camping.

It's moving from my extravagant and not necessary (mental) list to my I think I want to do it list. Need to give it a couple of days, or weeks, thought to decide whether to really add it to my plans. Now I'm considering where I'd want remote controlled exterior lights.

Under side doors, yes.
Under galley area, very nice to have.
Tongue area, nice to have.

[rowerwet]

our interior light switch is mounted in the middle on the ceiling, easy to reach from either door, and withing our reach lying down. I plan on a motion activated "porch" light for the outside lighting.

[48Rob]

Zach,

I like that idea!

I wrote the seller about the devices, and how much if any power they draw at idle.
His/her reply was 4.7 mA
If my math is correct, that would be .0047 Amps
Since each box draws that much, a 4 device setup would be 18.8 mA or .018 Amps

Seems acceptable for draw on a deep cycle system?

Rob

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Zach, I think my wiring plans may be changed due to your input.

I think its a heck of a lot more convenient than having switches all over the place. And as you said, the fobs are a great place to keep your various trailer keys.

Zach,

I like that idea!

I wrote the seller about the devices, and how much if any power they draw at idle.
His/her reply was 4.7 mA
If my math is correct, that would be .0047 Amps
Since each box draws that much, a 4 device setup would be 18.8 mA or .018 Amps

Seems acceptable for draw on a deep cycle system?

Rob

The draw is pretty negligible. And although the draw is pretty low, it keeps the battery in a somewhat active state, which is a plus. Based on the .018a, if you were to let your trailer sit for 2 weeks, the receivers would pull 6Ah. I think most people either keep their trailers plugged in to a trickle charger, or have a battery disconnect for when their trailers are just sitting for very long, so that 6Ah probably isnt a big deal. Either way, the remotes add a convenience that I feel is worth that little draw. And with the ability to turn your lights on or off while sitting at the campfire, you might be able to conserve some energy as well.