If you were to build it all over again ...

[Oldragbaggers]

My next build, if there ever is one, is probably taking shape somewhere in Elkhart Indiana.

[KennethW]

If I build a 2nd tear, It would be 4x8 on a HD trailer with the axle above the spring. (center leaf removed) The trailer would have the 2nd and 3rd beams installed below the side rails so that the below floor storage floor have a slot to slide into and would be made wide enough to fit the spare tire. The 5th and 6th beam would be also below the side rails to lower the galley floor. I would store the cooler on the galley counter. (A cooler always have to be remove to open anyway) And when not cooking the counter is empty(a armless camp chair makes a good cooler stand). I would build it with FRP glued to pink(or blue)foam.(little or no wood). For heat I would use my homemade radiant tube propane heater and for cooling I would build in a swamp cooler pad in the galley wall and use a fantastic fan in the roof to move the air thru the pad. Cooling using very little battery power!

[Donutboy]

My next build, if there ever is one, is probably taking shape somewhere in Elkhart Indiana.

I'm inclined to agree with you, but I've seen a couple of gutted out air streams come up for sale locally where the owner started the work and then gave up. This is intriguing...

[working on it]

My overweight tank of a build 4x8 has almost everything I imagine I'll need for solo camping...however, if ever the occasion occurs where my wife could join me (I started the build for her), then I see the advantages of a 5x10 (if a teardrop/derivative) or even a 6x12 (if a standy). Extra width for dual occupant sleeping space, extra length to fit in all the necessities. I would incorporate somewhat lighter materials, but not where strength counts. If the wife wants a standy, then one with a raisable roof-line. I don't anticipate building either for a while; we travel solo 99% of the time, and we have a 20ft TT standing by, unused, if we do travel together. Actually, I wish to try building a 5x10, just to fit the equipment in better, and to satisfy my need to keep on working on it.

[glenpinpat]

I am presently on build #2. My new one will be narrower, off road capable, completely self contained. Trailer will have full size tires and electric brakes with independent suspension. body will be 5 wide instead of 6 wide and will have basement storage. We will also have foam mattress(no more air), prefabed doors, and a pull out fold away kitchen. Our goal is five minute setup including awnings and side tent.

[anntann]

woot! old poll...still relevant!
Our first was 5'x10'. heavy-ish, but towable by a car if you're careful (we use a van). but...fiberglassed wood sides/top. hmmm
2nd tear is ultra light, 42"x8'. easy tow. Trailing arm springs/axle things. easy for offroad. rides like a dream. but again...fiberglassed wood top, painted wood sides. it's...okay. but darnit..

I Want an ALUMINUM early styled tear!

[Art Mini]

If I was to build it all over again..........

I would like it:
longer
wider
lighter
better outside finish
larger tires
vintage look
taller
better kitchen

[Tomterrific]

I would design more complex. I want a high\low to lessen wind resistance. A lower profile sure would be nice for towing.

It would have a round front with Windows, for style.

Five feet wide instead of four.

Gosh, but I love our little camper just the way she is!

Tomorrow

[VT800C]

well it's coming along. What would I like? wider (so wife would try it) Insulated (so I don't need to worry about condensation) make sure it doesn't leak (a constant fear) just a lot of little tings. but the main thing is, it's a PROJECT. it will never be finished. I will find some little doohickey to add to it, whether it's a solar powered 'BAR' sign to a porthole window I can try outing in the door to the TV mount to the shelves and pass-through to the backsplash to the....you get my point.

I guess the answer is...want what you have.

[daveesl77]

When I did Conch Fritter's cedar strip siding I decided to take a chance and use just 7 coats of poly instead of going epoxy/poly. I regret that decision. This spring I completely stripped one side and will do the other this coming fall, but still only using spar poly, as I've never done epoxy/FG on a vertical surface. In the meantime, between camp trips, I'm going to try my hand at practice layup of vertical epoxy cloth layup and see how it comes out. If practice works, then I will take down both sides (again) and do it properly.

We are considering building another, but going much bigger while keeping the weight about the same (1,340# loaded). We love Conch Fritter and have no intention of selling, so we'd probably have two if we do build another. Our present one is probably 60%+ foam. If another I'd go for much higher level, like maybe 85%.

dave

[Esteban]

I'm going to start over.

About 10 years ago I started to build a 5 x 10 Grumman II inspired teardrop on a custom built trailer frame. Construction progressed to attaching the side walls and galley bulkhead. Ooops. My home made doors warped probably because I used wood framing with too high a moisture content that I leaned against my workbench for1 to 2 months. Life intervened and my plans stalled, changed, and considerably evolved

I'm going to start over using just the trailer frame, Dexter torsion axle and the 14" wheels I began with. Plus other parts like LED lights, wiring, a PD 4045, plywood and much more that I purchased over the years. I'll tear down the existing walls, bulkhead and floor. The warped doors will be junked too.

For the do-over I'll build a 64" wide by 121" long Benroy(ish) inspired teardrop. It'll have more spacious and functional interior cabin and galley areas. The strongest motivation to build a Benroy, instead of a Grumman II, is to have plenty of flat roof area for a permanently roof mounted 160 watt solar panel so its comfortable to boondock for a week or so at a time. I'm 6'4" tall so the two door cabin area will have enough room for a 60" x 80" queen sized bed. The galley will have room for a Camp Chef Oven on a slide out drawer and a chest style ac/dc fridge freezer on another slide out drawer. An AGM battery stored inside the teardrop will be able to be re-charged by shore power, solar power and/or the tow vehicle's 7-way wire connections.

My Subaru Forester has a 1500 pound towing capacity for a trailer with brakes. I'm using a Dexter #9 torsion axle with brakes. The goal is to build a teardrop that weighs 1200 lbs. or less unloaded. To help keep the weight down it will be skinned on the outside with fiberglassed 1/8" plywood, not aluminum sheets. I'll need to be very weight conscious as its built in order to have enough available towing capacity to load the teardrop with cooking and camping gear, food, water, (adult beverages), bedding, clothing, etc.

I'll start a (re)build thread soon.

[Andrew Herrick]

Whelp ... after building 9 or so ... I've got a book of things I'd like to (and have) done over!

Here's one not often talked about. I'd pick the best darn tapes I could get my hands on. That's right, tape. I swear by premium tapes now. Use the right tape - VHB, EternaBond, 3M All-Weather, CornerSeal, Tite-Seal Steel-Loc, 3M Scotch Super 33+ - and the build becomes SO MUCH BETTER.

Cheap tapes - and adhesives in general - just waste your time.

I'd also have bought every single Kreg jig I could get my hands on

[Ron Dickey]

My next build, if there ever is one, is probably taking shape somewhere in Elkhart Indiana.

why there?? and how will it change??

[Ron Dickey]

Whelp ... after building 9 or so ... I've got a book of things I'd like to (and have) done over!

Here's one not often talked about. I'd pick the best darn tapes I could get my hands on. That's right, tape. I swear by premium tapes now. Use the right tape - VHB, EternaBond, 3M All-Weather, CornerSeal, Tite-Seal Steel-Loc, 3M Scotch Super 33+ - and the build becomes SO MUCH BETTER.

Cheap tapes - and adhesives in general - just waste your time.

I'd also have bought every single Kreg jig I could get my hands on

Where do you use that tape?

[Andrew Herrick]

Whelp ... after building 9 or so ... I've got a book of things I'd like to (and have) done over!

Here's one not often talked about. I'd pick the best darn tapes I could get my hands on. That's right, tape. I swear by premium tapes now. Use the right tape - VHB, EternaBond, 3M All-Weather, CornerSeal, Tite-Seal Steel-Loc, 3M Scotch Super 33+ - and the build becomes SO MUCH BETTER.

Cheap tapes - and adhesives in general - just waste your time.

I'd also have bought every single Kreg jig I could get my hands on

Where do you use that tape?

- VHB: Just getting started with it. So far, it's the best stuff I've found to attach aluminum siding to plywood without oil canning.
- EternaBond: Seals the bottom edge of all aluminum siding and the backside of riveted lap joints.
- 3M All-Weather: Flashing for window or door rough openings. Most conformable.
- CornerSeal: At the wall-roof edge joints.
- Tite-Seal Steel-Loc: Same as 3M All-Weather. Not as conformable, but sticks better to polystyrene.
- 3M Scotch Super 33+: Electrical tape. Strong adhesive; no residue.

And that's just the start of the list!