Cross Bow / trolley / renamed little blue trolley

[Ron Dickey]

I have done very little to the trailer but have done many drawings I will try and photograph them.

Drawing
A. I have done are Wiley window I think I under stand it but do not have dimensions and will not until door is started.
B. Galley will have many pull outs but I have never done a slider. I have found several sites on you tube that explain them.
B1. Hinges I do not understand who make them be straights I will look on youtube in time. I have one set on my cabinet above our head and one is off.
B2. I have shaded with you the ideal galleys earlier. The cooler pull out left and cooktop stove holder right with drawers below that can only be opened when that unit is open
and the sink will be under the counter and pullout from under it as needed.
B3. At the counter level or above it.
B3a. There will be a pass though in the center from the main counter.
B3b. cabinets left and right with the shelving attached to the door so she can reach them.
B3c. to the left and right of the cabinets will be pull forward plate holders and silverware holders.
B3d. because the cabinets and place holders might sweep off some thing from the counter as opened they will be up about 5" and those spaces will either be open or be gotten at from inside the cabin.
B3e. if any space is left above the cabinets that will be storage for things or lights.
c. on the back of the galley wall inside the cabin
C1. in the center would be the pass through
C2. below the pass through would be two cabinets for storage. to the left will be several sets of drawers made of cloth set in a frame of light wood.
when the trailer is moving a cabinet door would be closed over them so they will not jump out.
C3. to the right a hanging clothing cabinets with the bar running left to right and a cabinet door to keep them from falling out when trailer is moving.

I am also designing cabinets that will go on each side between the door opening and the front. And be low enough so the front cabinet doors will not hit them.

I have been correcting missed things that I left when trying to just get it on the road for the IRG. Little gaps filled so I can paint or stain that area.

I am starting to work on the side rails on the outside of the trailer above where the saddle bags will go. I find I will need to move the proposed place for the batteries and move them back and down and getting in the way of the storage space planed for the saddle bags.

Stay tuned I will try and post some more drawings and other real improvements soon.

[Ron Dickey]

I am starting to put in the side boards above the wheels.

I used a red thread used for sewing as my straight line left to right and drew a line vertically then set the bracket there drew the wholes for the bolts, drilled them out and got ready to bolt on. I will paint the brackets with rust resistant paint. Then cut and paint the board as I want and mount them. Then I can better judge the saddle back size.



it feels good to get a new restart on the trailer.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

Still working on my trailer but my time is limited. I have painted the support brackets for the outside shelves which will be the upper part for the Saddle. And after they are mounted will cut the shelves. The inside trolley windows began to warp so I may go back to my silicone Idea. the roof is ready for a second coat of paint. I am getting ready to seal the inside walls of the trailer, and paint 2 parts. I have some cuts to do for the light switches.

have been spending alot of my time getting a salvage title on my puller car. The amount offered for the car was much lower then what I have to spend for as good of a puller.

New side view mirror was $300 alone, new tires (old ones flat on one side). Side swipped on both sides guard rail and Chev express van on the other.

Though it does not look like much this drunk hit and ran (caught later down the road) at about 70 mph while we were driving at 55 mpg. Though not hurt it has take me some time to get my head on straight. Other wise I would give you more 's of at least my drawings.

I will pull out my drawings and make a note to at least photograph them. I think I have the galley figured and much of the guts of the trailer. But for now I need to put a heating pad on my back and get my wife to rub my back.

Monday I got the title for the car. Tue, Wed, Thurs. worked on the outside shelf when I could fit it in between other things. I have to paint the heads of the bolts then I can move that much closer to the saddle and begin to build 2 cabinets for the front side walls of the inside, cut the switch plate area out of the walls, attach the front walls, paint the bottom of the front cabinets install the reading lights and then work on the switches for the reading lights, upper inside lights, and outside under the door lights, also I will have DC plugs on each side with computer or cell phone jacks.

I will try and photograph these before I put in the wall between the galley and the cabin.

Sorry I slowed down but there is progress just not as fast as before the IRG. but I am glad the old trailer got hit and not the new one. Very very minor but some damage.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

New drawings of what I plan to put in.

this drawing is the front inside cabin. Wiley window with storage for pane in packet below, Cupboard next to the window top will stop just below where the swinging door from the front cupboard will open missing it. Below the cupboard are the room light switch, DC plug, small fan, and reading light switch ( the light also has it's own switch), below that though not really designed properly kleanex box holder and storage for small things like glasses.

top view of Wiley window. With a window curtain rod, the lines in front of the rod with the two arrows of the rod are ment to look like they are going down the sides, the black dark parts top and bottom are meant to be the outside frame. Maybe the next drawing will help see what I drew.

different view of the Wiley window with a curtain rod that cen be pull down to let light in, at the top is a drop down plate that would keep out light from above with the curtain rod up. I am still working on the drain that goes at the bottom of the window so any water on the glass says outside.

this is at the back of the cabin. they will be higher so my big feet can not hit. On the right will be drawers made of cloth to reduce weight and it will have a door that closes so when we are driving the drawers will not slide out, Center top is the back side of a pass through, below it might be just storage or a TV or other entertainment unit, below that more storage, to the right will be a hanging closet with bar running left to right (this is an experiment and do not know if it will work) below the units on left and right walls will be another DC plug.

Galley pull outs left and right for plates and silverware. the sink will pull out and ride on a pull out drawer set up, you will need to read each of the rest of the galley on the drawings.

Ron

[ChasCABQ]

Wow, you're making quite a nice teardrop. I really like your trailer's curved front.

I also considered Wiley windows but am now leaning towards pre-fab aluminum from Li'l Bear. Love to see how yours turn out if you do them.

[Ron Dickey]

I painted the bottom of the cabinet that is above our heads as we sleep. It is the same color as the outside of the trailer. After sanding off that paint that go on the walls where tape did not hold, I will start staining the walls of the inside curved wall, cabinet doors and walls, roof, and removable walls on the side of the trailer. I will also paint the inside of the cabinet white because there will be no light in there and light from inside or the trolley will reflect inside.

Top decks above the wheels on the outside of the trailer are ready to be mounted, then removed and painted. Maybe white?? The saddles are closer to a finished design. need to figure out which batteries will be used so I can build mounts for them. I plan to have the plates put on before I get that done because I will need to change the break light setup.

The windows in the Trolley have warped a little and need some rethinking.

Doors are on hold until I get inside walls around the door opening mounted. I may start the
Wiley windows before the doors that way I have a preset on the size of the window opening.

I will probably need some one to look at my galley hatch to figure out what I did wrong and if I can correct it or need to rebuild it.

Ron

[rowerwet]

Wiley windows can interfere with the inside door handle depending on the style you get, I bought the classic style door latches, the inside handle caused the window to be set toward the front of the door. This isn't really a problem though, it puts the window closer to your head lying down.

[capnTelescope]

Hi, Ron.
The build is continuing to look good. Keep on keepin' on.

I will probably need some one to look at my galley hatch ...

I went back a couple pages and read some of your tribulations with the hatch. One thing that jumped out at me was the ribs. Since you're thinking of starting over and rebuilding your hatch, I want to recommend that you cut your ribs from plywood rather than lumber. Plywood will cure the splitting problem you had with plain ol' lumber. Less weight too!

I'm not sure exactly what all your problems are. If you could put up some pix 'splaining your problems, it would help all of us understand better. It'll help you understand, too. Or, just explain it to the wife. The effort of verbalizing will help you focus on the problem(s), and she'll have some "dumb" questions where you're overlooking the obvious. It's worked for me. Two heads better than one, too many cooks, etc.

[Ron Dickey]

Wiley windows can interfere with the inside door handle depending on the style you get, I bought the classic style door latches, the inside handle caused the window to be set toward the front of the door. This isn't really a problem though, it puts the window closer to your head lying down.

thanks I am making the wiley windows and the door so I will keep an eye out. I have Lil Bear door handles. And because of the arch in the front of the trailer our heads will be farther forward. I am more worried about the cabinets I am putting on the sides but they will only be 4" deep and I can remove them if they do not work out.

I will ask that of my friend in Sydney , michaelrsydney his unit is below

although I have my own ideas I am mainly modeling this from his design.

Ron

[Ron Dickey]

Hi, Ron.
The build is continuing to look good. Keep on keepin' on.

I will probably need some one to look at my galley hatch ...

I went back a couple pages and read some of your tribulations with the hatch. One thing that jumped out at me was the ribs. Since you're thinking of starting over and rebuilding your hatch, I want to recommend that you cut your ribs from plywood rather than lumber. Plywood will cure the splitting problem you had with plain ol' lumber. Less weight too!

I'm not sure exactly what all your problems are. If you could put up some pix 'splaining your problems, it would help all of us understand better. It'll help you understand, too. Or, just explain it to the wife. The effort of verbalizing will help you focus on the problem(s), and she'll have some "dumb" questions where you're overlooking the obvious. It's worked for me. Two heads better than one, too many cooks, etc.

CapnTelescope, (interesting name)

this is a shot from my gallery

it twists way to much, the boards going up to the hinge on the sides got cut at the top to attach to the cross board and I fear this was my fatal mistake.

I will take some shots of that part. I will take the plywood idea to heart. I was in a hurry trying to bring it to the IRG glad I did not I got in a car accident on our way home nicked the old trailer and broke a shock. I just got salvage on the car so I can keep pulling with it.

I will get more photo's in time thanks for your interest.

Ron

[KCStudly]

On a bare frame like that I would expect a lot of twist, especially when only propped up on one side, as shown.

I am using 3 inch deep mitered plank ribs and even with the inner skin on my hatch frame has quite a bit of flex; not quite as much as yours, but in the same direction where the upper and lower spars don't necessarily stay parallel; tho lots of strength in the other direction with no tendency to flatten out. By keeping the frame in position on the galley when putting the skin on, and later when I add the foam and outer skin, I believe that it will stiffen up considerably and still fit the opening.

Does your hatch frame still fit the opening well when it is closed? If so I would continue and put the outer skin on in that position. Doing the inner skin with it off the galley will be the tricky part because that will pretty much lock in the shape.

I wonder if you put temporary tension rods (like for a screen door) on diagonals between the upper and lower corners if that would hold the shape true long enough to get the skins on.

[S. Heisley]

Put that PVC pipe on the other side and I'll bet it'll go kati-wampus in the other direction. If it does, you've got your answer. It's just not stiff or strong enough yet. Are the spars glued or just screwed in place? Adding your plywood skins will make a big difference; and, yes, I am agreeing with KC that, if you put the frame down onto the frame of the galley opening, it should follow that opening. If it does, you could glue the outside plywood on while it is sitting there; but, if you do, don't forget to tape a line of waxed paper between the galley opening and the hatch (all the way around) so that you don't accidentally drip glue and glue the thing shut.

[Vedette]

Not being a wood worker myself.......I would use 3/4 " sq. tubing 100 wall. and skin it with 18 ga.
Remember I like to weld!
All kidding aside. Your build looks Great!
Keep up the good work!
Good Roads
Brian & Sandi

[capnTelescope]

it twists way to much

I think you are right to be concerned. Mine flexes too, but not that much. KC is right about it stiffening up when you skin it.

I think some flex is a feature, not a bug. Having some flex will allow the hatch to easily settle into the correct position when you shut it. Because the hatch fit to the galley is critical to preventing leaks, I skinned my hatch while the frame was on the trailer in the closed position. This prevents the hatch from having a wrong built-in twist from the skin.

I also router-trimmed the edges while the hatch was in place for best fit.

Whatever else you do, you will need a prop on each side of the hatch or one in the middle.

[Ron Dickey]

rain something we have not seen in a long time. I wanted to seal the inside walls but will have to wait for the air to dry a bit.

inch by inch mile by mile but I am getting there. A friend said he has a friend who worked on his project which was quite big 20 min a day, and has a lot done.

I am working on the inside wiring so I can put the walls up inside. I have switch boxes like this on both sides at the front so we can turn on reading lights, overhaed and under trailer as well as having an out let for fans or other needs. there will be a second DC outlet on the floor near our feet on each side.

I ran speaker wires so in the future I can add speakers too.


The DC plug is too deep for the plug box as it is so I made it deeper and will put a sheet of plexi on top of it with holes drilled for switches and plug.
here are plug and LED switches on top of the plexi.
here is what they will be connected to. I at first did it wrong and did them in series and have sense changed them to parallel.

the top of the saddle is started. using a red thread as a line I figured out where the brackets belonged and drilled the holes.
the board is yet to be cut with rounded edges and attached to the brackets.
but for now it works great as a work bench.

My ideas of the outside of the trailer are coming more refined

I still want to put the tire at the back and have copies of pictures of tire table that have worked for others. It may take me years to get there. until then I need to figure where to put the spare.