custom frame questions

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custom frame questions

Postby gene so » Thu Nov 27, 2014 12:43 pm

Hello,

I have on hand a HD Dexter axle w/brakes which is dropped six inches and full sized tires and spare. Prior to going to college I passed three different states welding certification tests, so construction of steel tubing should be straightforward.
My trailer will be used for standard and off road usage behind my 4x4.

My trailer will be lower, even with the larger tires, and wider for fuller internal size, thus the tongue will be a goose neck. An experience long ago with small tires and bearing problems when in rural Wyoming led me to my suspension decisions.

While creating this frame of tube steel I want to keep the electrical wiring within the tubes for less long term problems. I want both 12 volt system and also 110 for cooking and heating water. I also must make provisions for the electrical brakes and also recharging the batteries when driving.

I could use your help in the wiring layout for the galley area, the inside, the battery setup, and also somebody has to have a handy way to store the spare tire out of the way till needed. I plan to have a heater with external tank mounted alongside the batteries in front of the trailer, probably on checker plate.

I know about mounting the springs on a heavy duty angle iron and then attaching this assembly to the existing frame members after moving it back and forth for better weight distribution. But, that's about the extent of my knowledge. I assume most people build one of these and end up building another after some experience. After dealing with Cancer and a Heart Attack I must do this right the first time. Thank you for your attention in this matter.

Gene So

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Re: custom frame questions

Postby Redneck Teepee » Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:42 pm

This might help or give ideas for spare tire mounting. This is how I did mine although it may not work for everyone it worked for me.

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=58565&hilit=+spare+tire+mounted
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby ctstaas » Fri Nov 28, 2014 9:26 pm

Hi Gene Wiring isn't my specialty but I'll throw out some thoughts on wiring. Use your frame as the ground for your 12V system. 10 Ga wire to handle the 110V. Here's what I do know: when I want to run power wires in a tube I will use bailing wire as a snake while I weld the frame then snake the copper wire through after welding and grinding and powder coating. I will someday mill some wood to use as conduit when I upgrade the power in my cabin. I installed 110V with wires for 12V upgrade later when I have additional funds for more parts. For now shore power works for me.
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby gene so » Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:22 am

Hello,

Thank you for your intelligent approach to mounting your spare tire atop the box holding the batteries and tools! While the pictures are a little dark, I could see the basics of your devise and will definitely be creating a similar one for my trailer.

Gene So
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby gene so » Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:30 am

Hello Chris,

Your reply makes me more comfortable with my choices. I will be using the flexible tie wire used in construction by Ironworkers for tying steel bars in a concrete pour because I know its both strong and flexible and I have some. Thanks to your insight I now plan to run more wiring than I plan to use so if I decide to add more electrical outlets for any reason in the future; it simply will be in place already. Thanks for your insight.

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Re: custom frame questions

Postby Shadow Catcher » Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:47 pm

I will disagree concerning using the frame as ground, you are asking to problems down the road from corrosion (which will happen). I ran separate ground wires on my small utility trailer after many years and a number of attempts to keep the lights functioning . The tear was constructed with them.
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby crpngdth2001 » Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:31 am

Shadow Catcher wrote:I will disagree concerning using the frame as ground, you are asking to problems down the road from corrosion (which will happen). I ran separate ground wires on my small utility trailer after many years and a number of attempts to keep the lights functioning . The tear was constructed with them.

+1. If you want years and years of trouble free operation, this is the way to go. I've had a number of trailers over the years, and frame grounding always creates problems (mind you, I was in Ohio with humidity and copious amounts of road salt).
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby tony.latham » Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:55 am

Me? I'm a 12v camp in the boondocks kinda guy since it's 90% federal ground where I live and play. Current bushes are few and far between so no 120 stuff. However, house 120V circuits use 12 gauge wire (except for the dryer etc). I'm wondering why a camp trailer would need 10 ga for the 120V stuff?

T
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Re: custom frame questions

Postby MtnDon » Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:28 pm

+1 on the frame / ground issue!! Run a ground / negative wire to each 12 VDC device along with the + wire.

Also +1 re tony's comment on AC wire gauge. As with DC size the wire to the expected load. 10 Gauge for 120 VAC is overkill and over expense for any TD or small trailer wiring. 10 gauge is for 30 amps; 12 ga. for 20 amps and 14 is fine for 15 amps. Why spend more money than necessary? Not to mention that 10 gauge is more difficult to work with and won't fit many of the std receptacles and switches used for 120 VAC.
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