Quote for propane install

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Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Mon Apr 13, 2015 4:16 pm

I checked with a local food truck builder to get a quote on installing my propane system into the trailer to feed my two burner stove. For a 20 lb bottle on the tongue, a fabricated mount, materials, and labor, they want $1800. That seems pretty expensive to me.

I've been thinking I would do it myself, but I wanted to see how much a pro-job would cost.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Mon Apr 13, 2015 4:46 pm

If there is anyone near Austin who has some propane experience who would be willing to lend me a hand doing the install, I sure would appreciate a little help.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby MtnDon » Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:24 pm

What stove make/model do you have? What other propane devices might you want to use? Stove inside, outside?? 20# cylinder located where? The more details you can tell us about the best the quality of the assistance you can get.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:15 pm

Atwood DV 20 - inside my 7x14 cargo trailer conversion. For now it's the only device as I have an ice box instead of a fridge. 20# cylinder will go on the tongue.

I'm pretty sure what I need to do:
- black pipe under the trailer attached with straps to the cross beams
- adapter to flexible copper tube at the end
- tube goes directly to device to minimize potential leaks
- flexible hose from black pipe to regulator on bottle

Question - how to bring the copper tubing up through the floor or wall such that rubbing or flexing won't fatigue it and create leaks

That and the general need to comfort when dealing with an explosive gas :)
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby S. Heisley » Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:20 pm

You might be able to do the install yourself and then call a plumber to inspect your work. Do you know/have a good plumber that you can call? An inspection would be less expensive than an install. Even though I had tested it, I had my simple system inspected before I even turned the fire on for the first time, just to be certain that I did everything right.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:27 pm

Good call. Will just any plumber / heating / cooling person do? I was looking for RV and/or food truck shops who would understand the issues and conditions of a mobile install
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby S. Heisley » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:10 pm

zroadhouse wrote:Good call. Will just any plumber / heating / cooling person do? I was looking for RV and/or food truck shops who would understand the issues and conditions of a mobile install


It may depend on the plumber. If you already know one, they may agree to inspect it for very little money. Some won't touch RV stuff; some don't care. All you can do is ask. The worst they can say is "No". Just be certain that you have done your homework enough to install your line correctly and well enough to know if somebody that you don't know is trying to take you "to the cleaners". Do your research first.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby MtnDon » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:31 pm

Good stove, IMO. It uses standard 11" WC pressure as do all the standard RV appliances.

- flexible hose from black pipe to regulator on bottle


IMO, It would be best to use a regulator that mounts on the trailer wall and has the rubber pigtail to connect to the cylinder. A regulator like/similar to one of these. These are 2 stage and offer better regulation than the single stage that usually fir directly to the cylinder. The pigtail incorporates the excess flow preventer and a thermal melt down stopper. Note the regulators have a "this side down"... the vent faces down.

From there iron pipe can be used down and under the chassis. A 90 degree elbow would let you run the iron pipe up through the wood floor. Use a rubber grommet to isolate the pipe from rubbing. Not that iron through wood is likely to wear through no matter the amount of movement. Secure the pipe well and movement will be nil or next to it. Use a good pipe dope on the iron pipe fittings. better than tape. I would istall a tee somewhere to make any future additions easier. In copper tubed lines that is less important as copper can be easily cut and flared at any time.

In the USA any copper tubing fittings should be flare fittings to meet applicable codes. Different rules in some other places.

$1800 is what someone who doesn't really need the work might charge.

If you have little or no gas fitting experience a knowledgeable advisor would be good. An independent plumber might be willing to advise and check the work out. Just have to start asking around.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby Dale M. » Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:52 am

In some ways gas line are not different the water when it comes to threaded fittings... All NPT (National Pipe Thread) fitting should be used with a sealant and tight.... You can assemble it your self as many big box stores will cut to length and thread pipe to your specifications... And to validate you install, just get a test gauge and install it on you "finished piping" ... In concept pipe is pipe its either tight and no leaks or not, does not matter if its gas or water.... Only considerations is you need a flex "joint" at tank/regulator (rubber) and at stove or fridge ( probably soft copper for ease of connection)...

Image

Simple to use.... You just put it on end of piping and pump a little air pressure into system (something as simple as bicycle pump will do) and put it at maybe 15psi and record the value and then let it go for 24-48 hours (or more) and if pressure stays constant you have tight system, if pressure drops you have leak....

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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Tue Apr 14, 2015 6:30 am

MtnDon wrote:
From there iron pipe can be used down and under the chassis. A 90 degree elbow would let you run the iron pipe up through the wood floor. Use a rubber grommet to isolate the pipe from rubbing.




Thank you for all the advice!

On one of the trailers I looked at, they had the black pipe underneath with a t-junction and soft copper to each appliance going up through the floor. My thought there was to have fewer joints and all of them outside the trailer.

With an elbow like you suggest, I would get a solid mounting heading into the interior, but would have more internal joints to inspect.

It sounds like you prefer copper all throughout the install. Is that based on the ease of cutting and joining (flaring?) on site as opposed to having the big box do it?
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby ibbowhunting » Tue Apr 14, 2015 10:05 pm

most residential propane appliances run at 11 inchs of water on the manifold side of the appliance, but the inlet should run just a bit higher normally around 13 inches is spec. which can be adjust on most propane regulators, air test the gas system but do not put 15 psi on the regulator or the gas appliance itself, dawn dish soap and water can be used to check the two final connections
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby Redneck Teepee » Tue Apr 14, 2015 11:06 pm

Dale M. wrote:
Simple to use.... You just put it on end of piping and pump a little air pressure into system (something as simple as bicycle pump will do) and put it at maybe 15psi and record the value and then let it go for 24-48 hours (or more) and if pressure stays constant you have tight system, if pressure drops you have leak....

Dale


To add to Dale's instructions: it can gain pressure also from thermal expansion, which also means it's a good tight system. :D
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby zroadhouse » Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:41 am

I'm putting my part list together now. I'll run it by y'all along with a diagram before I start installation.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby bobhenry » Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:34 am

MtnDon wrote:From there iron pipe can be used down and under the chassis. A 90 degree elbow would let you run the iron pipe up through the wood floor.


When I built the chuck wagon I used a 1" long nipple between the upturned elbow below and the coupler above the floor that receives the flex gas line to the stove.

I cut the hole in the floor tight to the pipe diameter and when the nipple is tightened into the elbow below and the coupler above it traps the black pipe solid. Since this install I have learned that a tee fitting would have been preferable with a short leg down and a clean out cap or gas valve. This gives rust and other debris a place to drop out of the flow avoiding clogging of the metering orifice.

This is a real simple job and will take less than 2 hours. Just use gas line Teflon pipe tape or gas line dope generously to prevent leakage and tighten the black pipe well.
I came from industrial maintenance in a chemical plant and still do not like soft copper for these types of applications. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Re: Quote for propane install

Postby bobhenry » Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:48 am

Here is a further explaination of the drip leg.

I had problems with this fireplace Image


Image

and finally called in professional help. The furnace guy was even almost at a loss. He was finally convinced the orifice was clogged. I stripped a very fine stranded wire and pushed it thru the opening. I couldn't tell any difference but we reinstalled it and it worked. He pointed out that my 1/2 steel threaded pipe goes directly to the flex gas line. He suggested I re-plumb slightly by removing the upsweep ell and replace it with a tee fitting and add a 4-5 inch nipple with a cap pointing down. This "drip leg" gives a place for heavy particles to fall and get out of the gas flow. Seems the rust and crud in the pipe just needed a place to get away.
Last edited by bobhenry on Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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