Battery charging options

[Jados]

Hi everyone!
I am young and new to the forum and building. I have a basic understanding of automotive electrical systems (from a class in high school). I'm at the stage of wiring up my teardrop trailer and was trying to figure out if I can just run 12VDC on all my devices and run it all off of my battery then when I'm hooked up to shore power run off of the battery and have a smart charger hooked to the shore to battery.
Anyone have any thoughts?

[H.A.]

Thid off.

[Jados]

When you refer to the "size" of the charger do you mean amps, volts, or watts?
Thank you for your reply.

[MtnDon]

Size would refer to how many amps @ maximum charge. The watts would follow; amps x volts = watts.

Other than maximum amps the other very important spec would be whether or not the charger has true multiple stage charging. Bulk charge at maximum current with a rising voltage, then absorb charge with a smaller, declining amperage and a fixed voltage and finally a fixed voltage and small fixed current for a float charge. That would be for a lead acid type of battery.

[rruff]

trying to figure out if I can just run 12VDC on all my devices and run it all off of my battery then when I'm hooked up to shore power run off of the battery and have a smart charger hooked to the shore to battery.

It's important to make sure your battery capacity is adequate for when you aren't hooked up, and that your charger will fully charge your battery and keep it charged.

[Jados]

trying to figure out if I can just run 12VDC on all my devices and run it all off of my battery then when I'm hooked up to shore power run off of the battery and have a smart charger hooked to the shore to battery.

It's important to make sure your battery capacity is adequate for when you aren't hooked up, and that your charger will fully charge your battery and keep it charged.

My intention is to use an interstate deep cycle battery. I'm assuming the more amp/hours the better?

[rruff]

First step is to calculate how much energy you will use when not hooked up. Batteries are heavy. You'll probably want to use solar unless your energy use is very small.

[John61CT]

My intention is to use an interstate deep cycle battery. I'm assuming the more amp/hours the better?

Interstate does not make batteries, just relabels them.

"Deep cycle" in a big box environment means as little as "marine", next to nothing.

Except for 2x 6v golf car batteries, very good value Duracell (Deka) from Sam's or Batteries Plus, or Costco's almost as good.

Also maybe from an Interstate shop, but 12v very unlikely.

If it quotes CCA, it's a Starter, not cycling.

Trojan is excellent bit more $$$ but as long as you are charging back to true 100% most cycles, worth the extra.

Not fully recharging 6-10 hours? You'll get way shortened life, mat as well get the lowest $/AH.

[John61CT]

A bit of realism: the minimum cost for a 100+ AH bank is around $200.

A decent fast charger will be minimum $150, likely $200+.

Don't skimp on wiring, fusing or connections.

You want accurate state of charge info, one key advantage of flooded is a hydrometer will give that cheap.

[lrrowe]

A bit of realism: the minimum cost for a 100+ AH bank is around $200.

A decent fast charger will be minimum $150, likely $200+.

Don't skimp on wiring, fusing or connections.

You want accurate state of charge info, one key advantage of flooded is a hydrometer will give that cheap.

My one year old plus Duracell 6v golf cary batteres from Sam's are $90 215 AH.

[John61CT]

Are you saying you are selling a pair for that price?

Or that's what you paid each?

Either way good value