Wall to Floor Connection Idea

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Wall to Floor Connection Idea

Postby mahai217 » Mon May 15, 2017 5:46 pm

Hello, folks!

As I plan my first build I have been thinking about optimum ways to attach the walls to the floor without sacrificing space, especially as I am building on a 4 * 8 HF.

Here is an idea I came up with (probably done or thought of thousands of times before me). My thought is to have a piece of angle iron welded to the bottom of the trailer frame to create a channel to insert the wall into. Screws, glue, and or other fasteners will still be used to attach the wall to the floor but I thought the channel might add support. Any thoughts, ideas, critiques?

wall_floor.jpg
Wall to Floor Connection Idea
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Thanks in advance!

John
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Re: Wall to Floor Connection Idea

Postby QueticoBill » Mon May 15, 2017 6:44 pm

It sure looks like the angle is a trap for water and wicking into ply. I like everything so it drains.
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Re: Wall to Floor Connection Idea

Postby tony.latham » Mon May 15, 2017 7:07 pm

QueticoBill wrote:It sure looks like the angle is a trap for water and wicking into ply. I like everything so it drains.


I agree. In wet periods your plywood will be sitting in water.

Glue and screw.

Image

I use sandwiched walls (their thick). So the internal skeleton is sitting on the top of the floor. After these pocket hole screws were installed, I added additional screws from the bottom. :thumbsup: Another good reason to build on a dolly and bolt to the chassis when you're nearly done.

Here's a shot of the internal wall that sits on the floor:

Image

T
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Re: Wall to Floor Connection Idea

Postby working on it » Mon May 15, 2017 9:21 pm

  • May I suggest an alternative plan, using steel brackets and hardware to bolt/screw your trailer together. I trust mechanical fasteners from long experience with them, and was not yet into woodcraft tricks, nor yet into welding (that came later, in my build). I came up with a plan to bolt, screw, and glue my trailer together, using familiar hardware, strong plywood (w/ straight cuts), and the best adhesives I knew of.
  • I enlarged the original (formerly a 50"x60" motorcycle? trailer) frame to be able to lay a 4x8 sheet of plywood onto it (the plywood sheet left 1" of frame exposed, all around, but the PL and later the poly and paint, sealed the endgrain, so no water ever penetrates it). I used 1/2" birch ply, then used eight 3/8" "slightly" countersunk carriage bolts to attach it to the enlarged frame, with Loctite PL Premium adhesive wherever wood touched metal (and at all seams, inside and out, wood, metal, anything...).Then, I used a thick coat of Titebond 2 to cover it, laying a 1/4" sheet of Luan over it, pressing out excess glue with weights and roller, screwing it to the frame (and bottom sheet) with flathead Tek screws around the perimeter (about three dozen).The bottom was coated, with automotive spray-on (rattle can) undercoating, after all bolts were in place.
  • After a week of drying, I polyurethaned the floor, let that dry for a week, and started with the superstructure. Using steel corner brackets, and Simpson Strongties gusseted angle brackets, I slowly assembled the walls to floor, and ceiling/roof to the walls, using SS carriage bolts, SS fender washers, and SS acorn nuts or nylocks (where required). All holes, seams, and joints had PL adhesive used for waterproofing.
  • The shell was poly'd with the "mix", and progressively more concentrated poly, then multiple coats of acrylic tractor enamel, and cured, prior to bringing it home, for me to install the interior pieces. Only in the interior, were woodscrews used, usually to screw and glue door, shelf, and decor in place, but using screws not long enough to penetrate the outer ply.
  • This unconventional trailer assembly has proven to be strong, and (except for a door ajar) waterproof. I altered your drawing to show how I would adapt the hardware I used to fit your frame/walls idea. It's just an alternative; use it if you can, and happy building!
  • alternative plan for wall to floor to frame.png
    alternative plan for wall to floor to frame.png (78.78 KiB) Viewed 396 times
    using proven hardware to attach all to frame
  • 2013 HHRv,"squareback/simple" TTT, semi-offroad? 4x8, 2000+ lbs travel weight
  • featuring: 3500 lb Dexter axle w/brakes & HD leaf spring system > riding on General Grabber 27x8.5-14LT tires, LED lighting inside, A/C & heat, AGM battery 12vdc, 110vac from extended run generator onboard or park power, Coleman dual-fuel stove & Northstar lantern
  • 147697148333
  • 148599125895148106
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Re: Wall to Floor Connection Idea

Postby mahai217 » Tue May 16, 2017 9:31 am

Once again -- you guys are awesome!

I'm thankful I found this forum. I have learned so much -- even when I find out my 'good idea' aren't so good after all.

Thanks "Working on it" for taking the time to work up a 'redraw' as well.

Oh, and Tony, I'm also in Idaho. I would love to meet up sometime and check out your rig.

You guys rock!

John
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