KennethW wrote:Why not use t nuts in the plywood with a strap(like the u bolts) under the frame and two bolts. Then you will not have to deal with a lump on the floor.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/imag ... ZzeWnPly-A
Dale M. wrote:If you have worries about holes in trailer frame, you have wrong frame.... If drilling 8 or so 9/16 inch holes for clearance of 3/8 bolts weakens frame to point of failure you have wrong frame....
Also you might consider having some tabs welded on frame for bolting purposes...
I think U-bolts would be ugly and awkward as the will have issues of bending frame and cause physical interference for floor being smooth....
aggie79 wrote:Did I read right that your floor will be insulated and the bottom plywood will be 3/4" thick? If so, the 3/4" plywood is overkill. You really don't need much in the way of fasteners to attach the teardrop shell to the frame. I used self-tapping trailer deck screws that go directly into the 2" tube steel frame.
aggie79 wrote:Did I read right that your floor will be insulated and the bottom plywood will be 3/4" thick? If so, the 3/4" plywood is overkill. You really don't need much in the way of fasteners to attach the teardrop shell to the frame. I used self-tapping trailer deck screws that go directly into the 2" tube steel frame.
Dale M. wrote:My build is 5x9 and I used 8 bolts mostly becasue of spacing to spread out connection points equally around parameter of frame so there was support equally around floor (frame outside dimensions is 5x9 with tabs welded to inside of frame rails)...
Number and size of bolts is a personal thing for what ever one feels appropriate for build strength...
You could use something like elevator bolts or carriage bolts and drop a bolt on each side of frame rail and use a plate to sandwich frame rail between plate and floor... There is probably 20 different way to do this, use amount of bolts and bolt size you are comfortable with...
Dale
aggie79 wrote:Did I read right that your floor will be insulated and the bottom plywood will be 3/4" thick? If so, the 3/4" plywood is overkill. You really don't need much in the way of fasteners to attach the teardrop shell to the frame. I used self-tapping trailer deck screws that go directly into the 2" tube steel frame.
Vesselhead wrote:aggie79 wrote:Did I read right that your floor will be insulated and the bottom plywood will be 3/4" thick? If so, the 3/4" plywood is overkill. You really don't need much in the way of fasteners to attach the teardrop shell to the frame. I used self-tapping trailer deck screws that go directly into the 2" tube steel frame.
I love your build. Read through it a couple times. Thanks for the feedback. I'm planning on mounting potable water grade plastic pipes about to the bottom for grey and clean water so I wanted something sturdy to attach to.
Some decisions are made. The frame plywood is cut as well as floor insulation and I already have asphalt emulsion on the bottom so I'm not planning on changing my structure.
Also my side walls are routereded to fit over the wood frame.
Dale M. wrote:If you have worries about holes in trailer frame, you have wrong frame.... If drilling 8 or so 9/16 inch holes for clearance of 3/8 bolts weakens frame to point of failure you have wrong frame....
Also you might consider having some tabs welded on frame for bolting purposes...
I think U-bolts would be ugly and awkward as the will have issues of bending frame and cause physical interference for floor being smooth....
Dale
Return to Trailer and Chassis Secrets
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests