Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

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Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby Joeb » Sun Sep 24, 2017 3:23 pm

ImageHi everyone,
I am new and will be building my first trailer a standy. I am hoping to keep the total weight to be about 1200 lbs unloaded.
This is a frame drawing I would like to build.
scan0013.pdf
(353.34 KiB) Downloaded 38 times

I am thinking to use either 2x2x1/8 HSS or 1x2x1/8 HSS for the sides and cross members. The tongue is a 2x3x3/16 with the a-frame being either 1x2 or 2x2 (Need input on this please)
Also not sure if I have the axle in the correct place or not?

Also need help on getting the correct axle. I am wanting the softest ride and new to all of this.
Joeb
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Re: Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby swoody126 » Mon Sep 25, 2017 7:39 am

while @ this stage my feeble mind would consider

* adding pads for front stab jacks

* calculating and creating a tongue jack pad that allows the tailgate to have clearance while hitched up

* making sure the corner of the tow vehicle rear bumper can't reach the main body of the trailer

* using the 2x2 provides a wider target when fastening from the inside

no need to ask why i make these suggestions ;)

sw
"we are the people our parents warned us about" jb
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Re: Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby Aguyfromohio » Mon Sep 25, 2017 9:51 am

Quick thoughts:

- it seems a bit heavy, 1/8 inch thick walls on the square tubes

- Think about the details of how you will attached walls, floor and axles. Angle iron avoids drilling through both walls of a square tube to get a screw through it. Consider replacing some of the square tube with angle.

- drilling a a couple dozen holes in 1/8 inch steel is long hard work. In our build we had too many holes through both sides of square tube, and many required opening up one side for screw head and socket to pass through. We will never do that again. And we used much lighter 14 ga tube (.078 inch thick wall).
I have come to hate a unibit.


Image
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Re: Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby Joeb » Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:32 am

@Aguyfromohio So by changing the 2x2x1/8 to 2x2x1/16 or 14 gauge I will be okay with the strength correct? (Then my drilling would be easier also.) Also change the 4 cross members to 2x14ga angle. What if you added pads on the insides of the outer rails that had holes then you do not need to drill through 2 only 1.
Thanks!!

@swoody126 I see to add front stab jacks would help camping and not rely on the front jack. Also I never thought of the front pad interfering with the tailgate of a pickup truck. (Great idea) Also to make sure the vehicles do not hit each other thus making sure the tongue is out far enough.

Again thanks.
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Re: Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby Aguyfromohio » Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:23 am

Joeb wrote:@Aguyfromohio So by changing the 2x2x1/8 to 2x2x1/16 or 14 gauge I will be okay with the strength correct? (Then my drilling would be easier also.) Also change the 4 cross members to 2x14ga angle. What if you added pads on the insides of the outer rails that had holes then you do not need to drill through 2 only 1.
Thanks!!

@swoody126 I see to add front stab jacks would help camping and not rely on the front jack. Also I never thought of the front pad interfering with the tailgate of a pickup truck. (Great idea) Also to make sure the vehicles do not hit each other thus making sure the tongue is out far enough.

Again thanks.



Joeb I can't certify your frame will be strong enough with the thinner material.
For all I know you will build a 5,000 pound cabin with granite counter tops and take it bouncing over rocks off-road. :lol:

But there are many discussion threads about this here you can read. Many say " Don't build like a battle tank, build like an airplane".
Many argue that the cabin makes the frame much stiffer and stronger once it's bolted to the frame.
I endorse both those views.

For our builds I was happy with 14 gauge 2 x 2, with 2 x 3 at 14 ga on the A-frame hitch members.
I had considered going down to 16 ga but my welder said such thin steel gets to be difficult to weld up, and the weight savings were negligible.
Our trailers are a bit longer and wider and taller than most true teardrops, and so we are fairly heavy as teardrops go.
We should be at about 1,300 lb total weight including the frame.
I'm still happy at 14 ga.
Next time I will take out most of the square tubes and replace it with angle to make screw holes far easier, probably 1/8 inch 2 x 2 angle, just about the same amount of steel per foot as 14 ga square tube.

I think you are on the right track with your changes.
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Re: Trailer frame chassis for a 6x10 standy

Postby Joeb » Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:28 pm

@Aguyfromohio That would be bad if I built a 5000 lb caravan but I am trying to build something that my VW Gulf TDI can pull. I will make some drawing changes with the ideas given and upload that next.

3 questions that I am working on now.
1. Do I have my axle in the correct place?
2. What axle would give me the best ride so it does not go bouncing like crazy. (no off roads for me) I am just looking at traveling from Colorado to Florida 2 times a year and not having to use motels.
3. I have welded many years ago(stick) and now would like to get caught up on what to use now. I will probably only need the welder for trailers. I have a great wood shop with a 220 - 100 amp service. I will rent something first but need ideas on what to rent or purchase down the road.
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